lets have a new razor thread.

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Sharpened "Sunday" from my Wade and Butcher 7-Day set with an ancient Washita/Hard Ark. Very special stone. 2.51 specific gravity which is getting close to my Surgical Black. But fast as hell. Same stone I used after thinning this cleaver on a crystolon coarse.



The razor had a Naniwa 12k edge on it before with several shaves on it. The Ark wasn't quite the same level of keenness however the shave was very comfortable. And I didn't have issues with it not being sharp enough. Even around the tough area shaping my mustache.



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I got another one to complete the set. The horn one. I guess that will Saturday. Sunday through Thursday I have the originals. Tuesday is a little rough with a stubbed toe and some pitting near the edge. Maybe someday I will get the two replacement ones engraved/etched on the spine to match.

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And here is a bernedoodle in tube socks.

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Finally got time to sharpen those 2 vintages I got off auction, Sakai Biken Giyana and Friedr Herder, Herder feels bit harder to sharpen but I don’t got much of a feel on razor steels, both came in good conditions so not much work was needed. BTW how do you guys evaluate sharpness on razor? I just hover them on my arm hair, if they can cut mid air then it is good to me
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Finally got time to sharpen those 2 vintages I got off auction, Sakai Biken Giyana and Friedr Herder, Herder feels bit harder to sharpen but I don’t got much of a feel on razor steels, both came in good conditions so not much work was needed. BTW how do you guys evaluate sharpness on razor? I just hover them on my arm hair, if they can cut mid air then it is good to me
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I keep a baggy of my daughters hair for doing HHT (it's longer and finer than mine). It's a lot better to standardise the test by using hairs that were snipped at the same time, rather than just picking random hairs out of a hairbrush, because the snipped hair has the same level of oil, hydration, etc, and that eliminates a few variables about how they cut.

But at the end of the day that is just an indicator. The only real test is a shave test.
 
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Finally got time to sharpen those 2 vintages I got off auction, Sakai Biken Giyana and Friedr Herder, Herder feels bit harder to sharpen but I don’t got much of a feel on razor steels, both came in good conditions so not much work was needed. BTW how do you guys evaluate sharpness on razor? I just hover them on my arm hair, if they can cut mid air then it is good to me
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I think I am in a very small minority about this, but I feel the edge with a finger or thumb. When you get really used to doing it, it conveys a lot of information, on the order of “this part of the blade isn’t as sharp as the rest” or “I thought I was done with the 3000 stone, but this doesn’t feel like a 3000 edge; something’s wrong, time to pull out the microscope or just keep going.”

I should emphasize how gentle and careful you have to be when doing this, and how tiny any motions along the edge should be. Also you don’t want to keep doing it in the same spot. If I’m doing this on the finisher, I always go back for a dozen light strokes afterwards, just in case I disrupted the edge.
 
Finally got time to sharpen those 2 vintages I got off auction, Sakai Biken Giyana and Friedr Herder, Herder feels bit harder to sharpen but I don’t got much of a feel on razor steels, both came in good conditions so not much work was needed. BTW how do you guys evaluate sharpness on razor? I just hover them on my arm hair, if they can cut mid air then it is good to me
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I always use my knee hair (still on my knee) and see if it can cut smoothly straight up while it’s hanging on my knee.
 
I think I am in a very small minority about this, but I feel the edge with a finger or thumb. When you get really used to doing it, it conveys a lot of information, on the order of “this part of the blade isn’t as sharp as the rest” or “I thought I was done with the 3000 stone, but this doesn’t feel like a 3000 edge; something’s wrong, time to pull out the microscope or just keep going.”

I should emphasize how gentle and careful you have to be when doing this, and how tiny any motions along the edge should be. Also you don’t want to keep doing it in the same spot. If I’m doing this on the finisher, I always go back for a dozen light strokes afterwards, just in case I disrupted the edge.
For the past half-century I have done this but with the skin on the ball of my palm. It tells me things a paper-cutting test confirms. That part of my left hand gets pretty uneven when it’s been a week of much sharpening.
 
Chipped kamisori. This one sharpens pretty uniquely, very comfortable and dry and super fine, not quite glassy but close, but so soft that buttery would describe it.
Doesn't feel very toothy, but doesn't really slip too much either. Quite intriguing. Looks like the barber ground it down too. I was contemplating whether I'd repeofile it or not but I'll just use it as is. Heel is a bit thicker, need to thin it too.

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Got a Gold Dollar on AliExpress just for fun, grind is bit inconsistent, bevel is huge for a new razor but for $7 seems fine
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The spines are way too thick. You need to grind down the spine to get it to the right bevel angle. It has been several years, but if I remember right, the ideal bevel angle is 14-18 degrees inclusive. If you just sharpen a Gold Dollar as is without removing a bunch of spine material then the angle is more like 21-23 degrees inclusive. Something like that. Don't quote me on it. You can find it with the spine width and the blade height and some trigonometry. But it is not great for shaving IME.
 
The spines are way too thick. You need to grind down the spine to get it to the right bevel angle. It has been several years, but if I remember right, the ideal bevel angle is 14-18 degrees inclusive. If you just sharpen a Gold Dollar as is without removing a bunch of spine material then the angle is more like 21-23 degrees inclusive. Something like that. Don't quote me on it. You can find it with the spine width and the blade height and some trigonometry. But it is not great for shaving IME.
Did a comparison with my Ralf Aust, you are right… and it is not exactly symmetrical either, so I guess I got myself another project…
 
I like Friodur quite a lot, just worry free shaving, always reach for it when I’m in a pinch

The Capes and Filarmonica are Lamborghinis. They look and sound amazing but if you aren't careful you'll end up bleeding in the ditch. The Friodurs are the Mercedes S-Class. Quiet luxury and comfort. User friendly.
 
I have had this razor for a while, but had problems finding info on the maker. Well after posting it on a Facebook forum another user having same stamp was also looking for info. They did however get closer by finding a razor pic online same stamp and spine was stamped with Samuel Robinson maker on spine. Also their stamp was better and complete where mine looked like a 7 on the last mark it is actually a Z. So after checking again with the company of cutlers I got a surprising hit and this is by far my oldest. I figured around 1750’s, but this maybe much older.

The mark was registered to Samuel Robinson, a cutler, in 1726. His father was Jonathan, also a cutler.

The mark is described as a star, above a finial, above 'Z'.

His father Jonathan's mark is described as 'Z' above a finial and registered in 1695.

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