lets have a new razor thread.

Kitchen Knife Forums

Help Support Kitchen Knife Forums:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
apparantly there are 2 thomas turner. there is thomas turner and co. and then just thomas turner. thomas turner and co operated for about 150 years or so. thomas turner "everlasting" for about 20 years.

i like mine. its in much much better shape than the rest of my restore razors. think i'm gonna temper it in the oven at 180C to make sure its atleast temperered once. but i have a few more incoming and i will temper them all at the same time.
 
apparantly there are 2 thomas turner. there is thomas turner and co. and then just thomas turner. thomas turner and co operated for about 150 years or so. thomas turner "everlasting" for about 20 years.

i like mine. its in much much better shape than the rest of my restore razors. think i'm gonna temper it in the oven at 180C to make sure its atleast temperered once. but i have a few more incoming and i will temper them all at the same time.

I have an everlasting in ivory. I'll post a pic later. It's not in great shape. But it's cool as hell
 
Alright. Not entirely sure about this one. Strongly suspect ivory. Could be bone. Definitely Thomas Turner Everlasting. But in worse shape than yours.

PXL_20210912_050742215.jpg

PXL_20210912_050808174.jpg

PXL_20210912_051020802.jpg

Here is a shot compared to a synthetic ivory and some bone scales.
PXL_20210912_050912317.jpg


Here's the grind.
PXL_20210912_051020802.jpg


Tough to say on this one. The little pores indicate bone. Everything else says ivory.

Here's some more obvious ivory.

PXL_20210912_051710696.jpg

You can tell with the yellow bits in there. There's a name for that I can't recall at the moment.
 
Ok @inferno here's some pics.

I suspect that these razors looked very similar out of the factory. But at some point a long time ago someone reground the bottom one to make it more hollow. But it's hard to say because older double shoulders were less uniform and more ragged than later ones.

View attachment 140933


But here's some others in my collection that I suspect started their lives much wedgier and were thinned down after a considerable amount of use.

View attachment 140934

Here's some more typical looking double shoulder grinds from the same time period for referenceView attachment 140935

this a nice collection you got going there!
 
What compound are you using on your buffer that gets rid of deep pitting? The only compound I'm familiar with that will get rid of some minor pitting is Formax Satin Glo.

i'm usin "pferd" green/coarse compound/brick. this works very fast but its not angle grinder fast or belt grinder fast.

but you also have to understand what the hard felt wheels does. the way you are supposed to use the felt wheels is with high pressure. and the high pressure will create a high temperature. maybe even up to superplastic temp. and this will basically smear the metal out. and also completely ruin the temper in the steel. i use much lower pressure. and much lower rpm. rememeber doubling the rpm will increase temps 4x. i do all my buffing with a bosch drill. with adjusable rpm. and usually its below 1500 or so.

but if i push it even at that rpm. i will be able to smear the steel. and this is of course very bad for the edge. but for the rest of the blade. its a non issue.

so try looking for some coarse buffing compound. it really speeds things up.
 
razors new.JPG


i might have aquired some new razors.

george wostenholm humpback 7/8 (awesome)
wostenholm 6/8
joseph rodgers 5/8 (post 1893)
joseph rodgers 7/8 (post 1893)
bingham/late fenney, tally ho 7/8
john wigfall and co "bona fide" almost 6/8
 
I really like that Tally Ho. I just picked one up that was double-stamped, a bit of a unique piece. I love Wostenholm razors, I have a Big George in my barbers roll waiting for restoration. I also like the Rogers (I like them all to be honest).

I don't know if you can get Satin Glo in your neck of the woods or not, but it's good compound. You can get it in a variety of different grits, from 60 all the way up to 600 grit I believe. It works well on a sisal wheel (buffer).

I'd be happy to take that Tally Ho off your hands. Throw in thge 7/8" Rogers as well! 😁
 
Alright. Not entirely sure about this one. Strongly suspect ivory. Could be bone. Definitely Thomas Turner Everlasting. But in worse shape than yours.

View attachment 141943
View attachment 141944
View attachment 141942
Here is a shot compared to a synthetic ivory and some bone scales.
View attachment 141941

Here's the grind. View attachment 141942

Tough to say on this one. The little pores indicate bone. Everything else says ivory.

Here's some more obvious ivory.

View attachment 141945
You can tell with the yellow bits in there. There's a name for that I can't recall at the moment.

i've read ivory was usually pinned collarless.
 
i've read ivory was usually pinned collarless.
Usually, but I've seen exceptions both ways. And it gets complicated because people will swap scales out and then put collars. Or repair chipped scales and add collars to hold the repair together better. Or they will make bone scales without collars so people will think it's ivory.
 
I really like that Tally Ho. I just picked one up that was double-stamped, a bit of a unique piece. I love Wostenholm razors, I have a Big George in my barbers roll waiting for restoration. I also like the Rogers (I like them all to be honest).

I don't know if you can get Satin Glo in your neck of the woods or not, but it's good compound. You can get it in a variety of different grits, from 60 all the way up to 600 grit I believe. It works well on a sisal wheel (buffer).

I'd be happy to take that Tally Ho off your hands. Throw in thge 7/8" Rogers as well! 😁

do you have pics of that double stamped one?

i like the pferd paste. i have coarse and fine. and then some low budget ones from the hardware store.

i just got the tally ho. did some hand sanding on it just now with 240 paper. its gonna need some work but i think i will clean up nicely. you collect tally hos?
 
Usually, but I've seen exceptions both ways. And it gets complicated because people will swap scales out and then put collars. Or repair chipped scales and add collars to hold the repair together better. Or they will make bone scales without collars so people will think it's ivory.

yes of course. and who knows what has happened in the last 100 years.

i think i will do most of my restores collarless. i found some brass nails in 2,0 and 1,6mm, and then half of the work is done.
 
do you have pics of that double stamped one?

i like the pferd paste. i have coarse and fine. and then some low budget ones from the hardware store.

i just got the tally ho. did some hand sanding on it just now with 240 paper. its gonna need some work but i think i will clean up nicely. you collect tally hos?

I'll take some pics of it tomorrow. It's arriving in the post on Saturday.

I've never heard of the paste you're using, but I think I found an American equivalent, though it's more of a grease I think.
 
So I have a problem, I currently own a puma straight that shaves like a beauty but looks like hell. I also own a bismarck with bone handle that shaves ok... not very comfortable if you ask me though, I tried jnats, coticules and naniwa 10k stones and nothing. Stropped on cromox and no cromox and shave is still harsher than I like, the puma is like a freakin squeegee, so my question here is, what new brand would you guys recommend?
 
So I have a problem, I currently own a puma straight that shaves like a beauty but looks like hell. I also own a bismarck with bone handle that shaves ok... not very comfortable if you ask me though, I tried jnats, coticules and naniwa 10k stones and nothing. Stropped on cromox and no cromox and shave is still harsher than I like, the puma is like a freakin squeegee, so my question here is, what new brand would you guys recommend?



I like turn of the century Americans and Germans full hollow 6/8".
 
So I have a problem, I currently own a puma straight that shaves like a beauty but looks like hell. I also own a bismarck with bone handle that shaves ok... not very comfortable if you ask me though, I tried jnats, coticules and naniwa 10k stones and nothing. Stropped on cromox and no cromox and shave is still harsher than I like, the puma is like a freakin squeegee, so my question here is, what new brand would you guys recommend?

post pics? to make it look nice you might need sandpaper/scotchbrite/steel wool/polishing pastes/metal polish like flitz or similar.

all those stones might be too low grit for you. naniwa 12k should get the job done imo. also look into diamond spray/paste on canvas/linen. 0,5micron or similar. you can also try metal polish on strop. i think www.scienceofsharp.com have a series called the pasted strop 1-4. read that.

do you have a dmt 325? this actually works.

---------

are you asking about a new brand of razor?

i've read too many stories of both dovos and ti's with warped spines and grind issues lately. but supposedly the more expensive models (not the baseline models) have better quality control. almost all new razors are full hollow. i shave better with beefier grinds so i only buy vintage razors. i like wedges :)

i'd suggest you get a friodur from ebay. get one that is close to new.

also you might need to do some spine correction on your bismarck.


 
thought i'd share some pics of my razor restoring setup. and methods.

i basically use a drill in a clamping holder for most of the paste/polishing work, and some of the heavy lifting.
i use a drill because i then have access to variable rpm so i dont fry the blades. there is also a lot of different things that will fit in the chuck!

i usually start with the brass brush. this removes rust. but no good steel. after that i can judge what needs to be done.
then after that i i dunk the blades in oxalic acid. this converts all red rust to black. and the whole blade turns black.
then sometimes if there is alot of rust i do the brush again and then more oxalic acid.

then if there is a lot of damage i've tried the sandpaper wheels but these kinda suck. they lose bite very fast and then they basically do nothing.
these are made to spin 10k rpm or so and then they work fine. but this is way way to much rpm for razors.

so instead i use the roloc holder with a 50mm scotchbrite disc. these can dig quite deep. but they also produce deep scratches. you have to work them at an angle since they are flat.

then we have the felt wheels. around 80mm is good for most razors. it follows the radius quite well. you have to learn how to use the corners of the wheel to get into tight radiuses. then i use the 70mm wheel. it gets into more hollow grinds.
i also have loose cloth "polishing" wheels in 80mm.

i have noticed its best to do most of the work with sandpaper. use good leather gloves! i've tried everything from 60 grit SIC and alox up to 1500 alox.
and here i can inform you that not all paper is created equal. some last 5 times as long. i use a silicon mat that you put under hot pans and similar. and then i put a roll of electrical top on that as my work platform. works quite well. the tape is quite good since i can put the razor edge down in it without destroying the edge, and it stays put fairly well.

60-180 grit is too coarse. its gonna take ages to get the scratches out. dont use this!

240 grit würth brand is where i start. this is where most of the work is done. then i move onto 400 or 600, usually 600. now its quite shiny. make sure there are no 240 scratches left. then onto 1k. and then 1500 (3m perfect-it microfine), then its dull mirror. and then its off to the felt wheels.

for the 80mm felt wheels i use a coarse and a fine brick. anything will probably do as long as its working. then i use the 70mm wheel with another brick that came with the wheels. but i think its makes stuff too mirrory so it i'm probably not gonna use it anymore. i want some kinda oldschool factory look.
not just a mirror finish.

i also have flitz.

restore1.JPG

restore2.JPG

restore3.JPG
 
sandpaper wheels will probably be good if there is a lot fewer papers in them. like 1/3 of what i have here. and also if they use some premium paper like cubitron, that dont lose bite in 10 seconds. the paper wheels conform to the grind very well. and you can get very surgical with these. you can do a "light regrind" if you want. but then you need better wheels imo. 3m or similar. at least a well known brand, and probably some of their premium stuff. i see potential in them. i just have crap wheels.
 
thought i'd share some pics of my razor restoring setup. and methods.

i basically use a drill in a clamping holder for most of the paste/polishing work, and some of the heavy lifting.
i use a drill because i then have access to variable rpm so i dont fry the blades. there is also a lot of different things that will fit in the chuck!

i usually start with the brass brush. this removes rust. but no good steel. after that i can judge what needs to be done.
then after that i i dunk the blades in oxalic acid. this converts all red rust to black. and the whole blade turns black.
then sometimes if there is alot of rust i do the brush again and then more oxalic acid.

then if there is a lot of damage i've tried the sandpaper wheels but these kinda suck. they lose bite very fast and then they basically do nothing.
these are made to spin 10k rpm or so and then they work fine. but this is way way to much rpm for razors.

so instead i use the roloc holder with a 50mm scotchbrite disc. these can dig quite deep. but they also produce deep scratches. you have to work them at an angle since they are flat.

then we have the felt wheels. around 80mm is good for most razors. it follows the radius quite well. you have to learn how to use the corners of the wheel to get into tight radiuses. then i use the 70mm wheel. it gets into more hollow grinds.
i also have loose cloth "polishing" wheels in 80mm.

i have noticed its best to do most of the work with sandpaper. use good leather gloves! i've tried everything from 60 grit SIC and alox up to 1500 alox.
and here i can inform you that not all paper is created equal. some last 5 times as long. i use a silicon mat that you put under hot pans and similar. and then i put a roll of electrical top on that as my work platform. works quite well. the tape is quite good since i can put the razor edge down in it without destroying the edge, and it stays put fairly well.

60-180 grit is too coarse. its gonna take ages to get the scratches out. dont use this!

240 grit würth brand is where i start. this is where most of the work is done. then i move onto 400 or 600, usually 600. now its quite shiny. make sure there are no 240 scratches left. then onto 1k. and then 1500 (3m perfect-it microfine), then its dull mirror. and then its off to the felt wheels.

for the 80mm felt wheels i use a coarse and a fine brick. anything will probably do as long as its working. then i use the 70mm wheel with another brick that came with the wheels. but i think its makes stuff too mirrory so it i'm probably not gonna use it anymore. i want some kinda oldschool factory look.
not just a mirror finish.

i also have flitz.

View attachment 142825
View attachment 142826
View attachment 142827
Theres a trick to getting your razors squeaky clean without having to do much work... like at all.... go to your local tools and whatnot store and get one of those vibrating things, throw in some almond shells with some crome ox and let it go for like 1 day or whatever... all oxide is gone and the blade is mirror polished. Don't be afraid of throwing in several of them, I did like 20 once and it was the best 24 hours of my life... at that point.
 
yeah well that method will remove metal all over and also at the same rate. and this is definitely not what i want. i want to keep the stamps as crisp and nice as possible for instance. so i dont sand or buff here much at all. this is the very ID of the razor imo. i also intend to leave some pitting. so i just remove the steel around the pitting.

i regard the pieces i'm working with as pieces of functional art. and i want to restore these to nice but i'm not gonna make them look like newly produced stuff. hey, they are 100-200 years old. and i dont want to destroy the history. i want to do this tastefully. there were real people making these by hand, and they were not very long lived. so i want this to show through. this is handmade stuff. and its old. i want to show respect to the craftsmen that made these.

i enjoy their age and wear, and rust. i'm not gonna regrind any of them to make them look like new. unless they looked like that when i got them.
i try to do as little damage as possible. yeah its not gonna be 100% perfect. but i dont care. and i dont want that. they should show their age imo.
 
yeah well that method will remove metal all over and also at the same rate. and this is definitely not what i want. i want to keep the stamps as crisp and nice as possible for instance. so i dont sand or buff here much at all. this is the very ID of the razor imo. i also intend to leave some pitting. so i just remove the steel around the pitting.

i regard the pieces i'm working with as pieces of functional art. and i want to restore these to nice but i'm not gonna make them look like newly produced stuff. hey, they are 100-200 years old. and i dont want to destroy the history. i want to do this tastefully. there were real people making these by hand, and they were not very long lived. so i want this to show through. this is handmade stuff. and its old. i want to show respect to the craftsmen that made these.

i enjoy their age and wear, and rust. i'm not gonna regrind any of them to make them look like new. unless they looked like that when i got them.
i try to do as little damage as possible. yeah its not gonna be 100% perfect. but i dont care. and i dont want that. they should show their age imo.
I understand where your coming from, but! put some electrical tape on the stamps and whatever else you don't want to have changed, the cromox at .5 microns basically just polishes the whole blade, try it one time, if you don't like it at least you now know for sure. Heres a link to a photoless post from a long asssss time ago where you can read a bit about the technique, seriously though try it, YOU WILL BE SURPRISED.

http://forum.shavemyface.com/viewtopic.php?t=8876
Friodur razors are the henckels ones right?
 
friodurs are henckels. these are better than dovos stainless if you ask me. and i have both. the grind is usually beefier too. and thats a positive.
 
friodurs are henckels. these are better than dovos stainless if you ask me. and i have both. the grind is usually beefier too. and thats a positive.

Friodurs are one of the best brands you can get in my opinion. There's a guy on eBay who refurbishes old ones based out of Ukraine or Bulgaria or something. You can sometimes get some real good deals on bare blades no scales. I've picked up 6 or so from them.
 
I did a razor restoration last night / today. This was the first time I'd done one, or honed a razor from scratch, and I also wanted to play around with the handle design (natch).

The hinged, scaled design of a SR handle is godawful for 'honing', though it's very good for shaving. I wanted to see if I could do a fixed, kamisori or knife-style handle with more axial symmetry, that might meet somewhere in the middle. It all went surprisingly well.

Start:

IMG_E2855.JPG


I also wanted to incorporate some of the horn scale into the new handle. So epoxied a bit onto the end, along with some Red Mallee burl. The main part of the handle is Olive:

IMG-2865.JPG


More by luck than by design I got quite a nice balance point here:

IMG-2869.jpg


I'm going to hold it like this:

IMG-2871.jpg


Sanded it from 600 to 2k, so still some rust marks, but my first go at a full progression from bevel set went quite well I think:

IMG-2887.jpg


IMG-2883.jpg


It shaves excellently at least, and I quite like the fixed handle. Though obviously I made it to suit me, so was amending and altering as I went. Full process here if anyone's interested.

IMG-2888.jpg
 
Last edited:
looking good with the wood. you might want to thin it out a bit. to make it more sleek/maneuverable in the hand. its personal preference though.
 
so it turns out the last of my holy trinity of humpacks arrived. the wade and butcher one.
its the one on the bottom. here pictured with the wostenholm and reynolds. these 3 are gonna kick ass! serious ass.

humpbacks1.JPG


humpbacks2.JPG
 
Back
Top