Looking to buy a tougher stainless laser to use at work.

Find deals on amazon
Kitchen Knife Forums

Help Support Kitchen Knife Forums:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Hamso k

Hamso k

Active Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2020
Messages
40
Reaction score
36
Location
Portland
Hey all. First off this is my first real post on KKF and I'm looking forward to joining the community.

I'm looking to buy a new laser that I can use at work as my main knife. I have a few carbon knives but I'm looking for something a bit more durable. Something I don't have to baby around my co-workers. I mainly chop veg for soups (A LOT of veg). I've been using a Takayuki TUS 210 laser and love it. That thing can slice through butternut all month no problem. Quite impressive for how thin and inexpensive it was. Extremely sharp ootb. Its seen it's fair share of abuse though and it's time I replaced it. I'm tempted to just buy another one but the handle is a bit small for me and the f&f left a lot to be desired. I'd love to get a knife with Wa handle if I can. Here's a link to it the knife: https://www.japanny.com/products/sakai-takayuki-tus-steel-gyuto-japanese-chef-knife-210mm

Knife shape isn't important. I'm experienced and comfortable with nakiris, gyutos, and santokus. I'd like to find a 240mm if I can but honestly it's not that big of a deal. I'm more concerned with how thin the knife is, its quality and cutting performance.

In short:

  • A tougher laser (2.2mm or thinner) that will tend to bend rather than chip while still having decent edge retention. I won't be cutting through bones or opening cans or anything but I do chop a lot of squash.
  • Wa handle if possible. However, a Western handle is fine as long as it's big enough.
  • Good F&F is a plus but I can always sand it myself.
  • Price isn't a big concern, nothing too cheap though. I'm not looking for a beater. I'm trying to find the best laser possible that can handle heavy use and take a few drops on the ground.
That's pretty much it. I'm trying to keep it a bit open ended and welcome any suggestions or advice.

Thanks again and I'm happy to be here!
 
Shibata Kashima R2 is my go to laser, I tried most of the classical ones and kept Shibata. Never had a chipping problem but if you want more toughness how about an Ashi Ginga, regular hardness? The stainless is AEB-L or something like it.
 
I am curious as to the usage of the term "LASER"- being new to the scene and all. I see you put a measurement to the term- 2.2 mm. Is this the accepted cut off? Is that the sole determining factor? I have a Kurosaki that is 2.35 mm midway, is it not a laser? Just curious.
 
Kono GS+?

I was thinning mine, got a little over enthusiastic, knife slipped over the edge of the stone. I feared the worst, but the edge was pretty much fine. A couple of swipes on a 1k stone and it was golden.

Also stands up to butternut squash just fine.
 
Would a a Myabi Hibana be a laser.. its pretty thin.... o_O
 
Neyxous said:
I am curious as to the usage of the term "LASER"- being new to the scene and all. I see you put a measurement to the term- 2.2 mm. Is this the accepted cut off? Is that the sole determining factor? I have a Kurosaki that is 2.35 mm midway, is it not a laser? Just curious.
Click to expand...

I just prefer knives thinner than 2.2. I'm not sure what the accepted cut-off is or if there is one but they're usually somewhere around 2mm
 
GorillaGrunt said:
Shibata Kashima R2 is my go to laser, I tried most of the classical ones and kept Shibata. Never had a chipping problem but if you want more toughness how about an Ashi Ginga, regular hardness? The stainless is AEB-L or something like it.
Click to expand...
Yeah I really want a Shibata. Almost pulled the trigger on a Kotetsu but I think even it might be a bit too brittle. Someday though. I've heard great things about the Ginga line and AEB-L. I'll probably end up getting one of those.
 
Neyxous said:
I am curious as to the usage of the term "LASER"- being new to the scene and all. I see you put a measurement to the term- 2.2 mm. Is this the accepted cut off? Is that the sole determining factor? I have a Kurosaki that is 2.35 mm midway, is it not a laser? Just curious.
Click to expand...
What Kurosaki is it? I have one as well.
 
dsk said:
Yes yes I know what jon did for his version but I was curious if anyone has used both just for comparisons sake
Click to expand...
I would just go check the specs, Jon always has them on his site
 
Takamura is always what I recommend for Laser, but there are Ginga and Shibata R2. Ginga is nice if you could get the Harder HRC one (Gesshin, Custom BlueWay or Razorsharp). Shibata R2 profile is not for everyone though, that is why I buy the Kashima. There is also Kei Kobayashi, his grind is really nice laser with a pretty high heel and R2 steel.
 
To throw also in the ring Makoto Kurosaki. From what I've heard Kei Kobayashi is only slightly better . So Makoto is a good and cheaper alternative. Lasers are pretty thin throughout the whole blade, less convexity, less wedging but more sticktion.
 
dsk said:
Yes yes I know what jon did for his version but I was curious if anyone has used both just for comparisons sake
Click to expand...

I’ve used both, but not at the same time. I owned a Gesshin 210 and an Ashi 240 at some point. I might be imagining it, but I think the Gesshin steel did feel like it could hold a more acute edge. I tried to put a pretty acute edge on the Ashi one I had and it rolled. But then again, I don’t think I was trying to be so aggressive in with sharpening back when I had the Gesshin, so maybe there’s no good data here.
 
Not sure how Shibata made it into laser territory. Granted I've not used one, just saw a lot of love for them one week on Reddit and next week they were the best lasers ever. Too many knives to try them all.

But for lasers, make mine a GG, SIH or Tad. Kono maybe. This thread has confused me from the beginning in it's search for a "tough" laser. They're all pretty tough with good technique - it's the carpenter not the hammer.
 
I really can’t recommend the Gesshin Ginga enough. I’ve had 2. I got the western 210 back in 2011ish. It was my first legit knife. To be nostalgic about it, My coworker was talking up his new UX10 and that’s what I wanted b/c I had **** knives. I wanted to hold it first, it was a lot of money to me. I got paid, googled Japanese knife store LA, found JKI, and long story short ended up with the ginga, and honestly it smoked it. It a laser but it’s tough.

I got the 240 recently, like it a lot. It is the destroyer of onions.

Oh, and for what it’s worth, I HATE the backswept heel on masakage knives (Makoto, probably the shiba, pretty much anything coming out of takefu has it and it’s such s bummer to me). Catches on rags.
 
Gesshin ginga has a harder and different HT than ashi ginga. It's not just harder.

The ashi should be tougher, but yeah, the edge will roll before chipping. Whereas the gesshin ginga is a bit harder feeling. Both are really well balanced steels though. Definitely not brittle.
 
Hd2 is really good stuff, i like it as much as any non pm stainless. Togo has the 240 weterns on sale at a really good price.
 
Kono HD2 in a 240 Gyuto with Wa Hex handle - my first Jknife but, one I'm going to replace with a Toyama B#2. It is very durable and much better quality than the Kono GS (I have that in a Petty).
 
JayS20 said:
To throw also in the ring Makoto Kurosaki. From what I've heard Kei Kobayashi is only slightly better . So Makoto is a good and cheaper alternative. Lasers are pretty thin throughout the whole blade, less convexity, less wedging but more sticktion.
Click to expand...
I checked his knives out. That is a good price. I own a Yu Kurosaki myself. I'd be interested to hear how people like it. Reminds me a bit of Shibata.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top