On the heel, you can also go one step further and make a bevel on the backside (for real heavy use) on the first 1" or so, see the below diagram...
Given that Dave's diagram is in Japanese, I am assuming that this is something that is done, but in my experience, putting a microbevel on the back side edge of the blade doesn't seem to lend itself well to uraoshi sharpening. In order to then be able to take off the burr, you would have to lift up the knife (spine side up) and push, which would further establish the microbevel. This experience is based on what I did to my Kanehisa yanagiba based on what I read back in the day - pre-internet - and I still haven't been able to remedy that.
I still can't deburr the knife without changing the angle. I only do a little uraoshi sharpening on the back side, then deburr on felt or paper because i can't hit the burr without raising the spine.
There was no criticism coming from me toward anybody, just a general observation - hardness and sharpness have been characteristics of Japanese knives for as long as I know it.Tests are funny things. They are arbitrary and have different significance to different people. You may be right, for all I know but personally, I'd hesitate to criticize the product of someone who by any measure is a master at his craft. I'd also hesitate to imply that every blade, regardless of steel, intended use and blade design should be hardened to 61-62 hrc.