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#1 reason was the profile along with its unique set of specs (taller, runs long, pointy tip, plus the thick spine with strong distal taper and thin behind the edge was a HUGE part of it). it basically matched what i would order if i were to get a fully custom.
 
#1 reason was the profile along with its unique set of specs (taller, runs long, pointy tip, plus the thick spine with strong distal taper and thin behind the edge was a HUGE part of it). it basically matched what i would order if i were to get a fully custom.

Cheers! Good reasons. I do remember you saying “looks like a fat arse santoku.”
 
I choose not to use righty d-handles just on principle—it's like wearing a shirt inside out. In the $200–$300 range, there are lots of lefty friendly, octagon handled gyutos to choose from. To me, no gyuto is so great that I'd buy a righty d-handle knife.

Can't flip the handle myself, no tools or glue in my NYC apartment—buying them just adds to the cost of the knife.

Hey, no worries. Not sure it’s like wearing a shirt inside out but everyone has their own reasons. I just put it out there since I am a lefty and have had a severe gyuto obsession for about 10 years and owned lots of righty d handles. No tools or glue needed for most. Just takes a wood block. I only suggest looking into it because I would have missed out on tons of amazing knives if I only went for octo handles.
 
Hey, no worries. Not sure it’s like wearing a shirt inside out but everyone has their own reasons. I just put it out there since I am a lefty and have had a severe gyuto obsession for about 10 years and owned lots of righty d handles. No tools or glue needed for most. Just takes a wood block. I only suggest looking into it because I would have missed out on tons of amazing knives if I only went for octo handles.

wait... chuck... when did you start posting again?
 
What did U get Chef? I have a 270 Otw from JNS. Love my 180 petty. Caught and released a 180 gyuto

Dawg!!

Just a 22cm mazaki from cleancut, value looks great, as do the specs (must be something too as all these fine folks are here weighing in on it). I'll let you know my thoughts:). Didn't remember you having the 180, glad to hear you like it:)
 
So I'm ready to give a few of my initial impressions, but understand Panda and I have very similar tastes (good taste) in knives...

I am drawn to knives with great distal tapering. I prefer a knife with split personalities. The heel should be stout and have a bit of weight. At the same time the tip should be thin and nimble allowing you to do more detailed work. This knife meets that requirement.

As I said in an earlier post this knife has a flat(ish) profile with a fairly low tip. Think Santoku/Gyuto hybrid. They run long and tall, but being hand made there is some variance. My example is nearly 55mm tall.

The OOB edge is rather uninspiring, but being white steel this is a fast and easy fix. After sharpening the knife, I agree it's pretty hard for white steel (Not Kato hard but not far off). I'm a home cook so I can't speak of edge retention. I've experienced no microchipping or other problems.

In regards to fit and finish, it's about what you should expect for this amount of money. It appears the final grind/shaping is done on stones and there is zero attempt to remove the scratches. It's a very rustic finish similar to Heiji. The spine and choil have been eased but not rounded.

The cladding is reactive, but no more than you would expect from soft iron. I find most variances of reactivity come from differences in finish and polish.

The grind is well executed and very even. I did see some slight wedging in items like thick carrots or sweet potatoes. The other end of the thicker geometry allows for decent food separation. I do prefer the grind of my Toyama (my knives a very similarly spec'ed).

Overall this knife is a bargain at this price point (currently around $250). It's focus is function over form, but it is beautiful in a raw way. It's shows all the marks of being hand made and doesn't attempt to cover them up. The handle on mine (cleancut) is very nice and one of the best stock handles I have seen.
 
one task this knife excels at is cutting buffalo mozzarella, every other knife i have just gets clumps of cheese built up on both blade faces and also the pieces all get stuck, not so with mazaki. i even cut length wise into 4, flipped it 90 deg cut into 3, then diced and it stayed put like if you dice an onion really carefully with the right knife it still maintains its shape instead of falling all over the place.

little things like this add up and just speaks to me more than other knives i have tried over the years. its not a master at any one thing, but it does pretty much everything really well and in a pro environment that is a very welcome trait. the function over form really suits me and its the primary reason it has become my favorite (yes i like it more than the ks!!)

word of caution, it takes on a really hideous patina (just as bad as shigs) if you cut a bunch of potatoes with it :D
 
But my Mario should arrive shortly to give a run.

When ever I have to do bulk amounts intake out a different knife than ks, where as Maz I am comfortable doing anything. When you use this stuff all day comfort is King.

When I'm not busy KS always comes out tho.
 
wait... chuck... when did you start posting again?
I guess this past week. Started looking again a couple months ago but not that I actually have some time, I figured that I could start posting again haha.
 
It's very reactive at the moment like any iron clad, I imagine it will call down once a stable patina is built up. Retention is good, but let's be honest nothing white steel gonna last as long as Watanabe. My previous longest lasting white was munetoshi.

Interesting that you say the cladding is very reactive. I have the old JNS version and it has the least reactive iron cladding I've seen. Almost semi-stainless. Just takes a light grey patina without any funky colours.

I have one on the way from cleancut and really looking forward to it.
 
The plot thickens!

Interesting that you say the cladding is very reactive. I have the old JNS version and it has the least reactive iron cladding I've seen. Almost semi-stainless. Just takes a light grey patina without any funky colours.

I have one on the way from cleancut and really looking forward to it.
 
Minimal reactivity means a lot to me...I’d like to hear more about this. Also, Maxim etched some Mazakis and posted them on Instagram, they look nice...I believe he said the had “clouds”.
 
Minimal reactivity means a lot to me...I’d like to hear more about this. Also, Maxim etched some Mazakis and posted them on Instagram, they look nice...I believe he said the had “clouds”.

It's reactive, certainly not minimally in my experience
 
I live a patina free lifestyle, but otherwise it would be the same
 
AzygBKs.jpg


Had it about 6 months. Probably my 3rd most used knife at work. It doesn't get any special treatment. Never removed the patina other than the wide bevel when sharpening. I'm pretty sure there's no lacquer on the blade. Surely it would have disappeared a long time ago. I was hoping the cleancut version would have similar reactivity :(
 
AzygBKs.jpg


Had it about 6 months. Probably my 3rd most used knife at work. It doesn't get any special treatment. Never removed the patina other than the wide bevel when sharpening. I'm pretty sure there's no lacquer on the blade. Surely it would have disappeared a long time ago. I was hoping the cleancut version would have similar reactivity :(

That one is the newer grind from jki, right?
 
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