My angle & pressure problem

Discussion in 'Sharpening Station' started by adam92, Jan 10, 2020.

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  1. Jan 10, 2020 #1

    adam92

    adam92

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    Can someone help identify my sharpen problem?

    There's seems like one spot i don't know why i couldn't sharpen, I haved circle the spot my problem.

    for the other spot, do i press too hard ? wrong angle ? IMG_20200111_123750.jpg IMG_20200111_115842.jpg IMG_20200111_115929.jpg
     

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  2. Jan 10, 2020 #2

    Benuser

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    Check with a marker where you're actually abrading. A loupe (8-10x) may be very helpful. Start at the lowest possible angle. See if that area does touch the board. I suspect an overgrind.
     
  3. Jan 11, 2020 #3

    ian

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    Looks like an overgrind to me too. That is, the part of the knife behind the edge is more ground down in that part than on the rest of the knife, so that when you sharpen, your flat stone doesn’t contact that part. To fix it, you would have to use a coarse stone, lay your knife flat on the stone with finger pressure a little ways behind the edge, and take away metal till the scratch pattern is consistent along the length of the knife.

    Curious: did you buy the knife direct, or from a retailer?
     
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  4. Jan 11, 2020 #4

    Midsummer

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    What stones has it seen?
     
  5. Jan 11, 2020 #5

    adam92

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    I buy the knife directly, i fix on my shapton pro 320 for 15 minute but still look the same, maybe i need to do more on coarse stone.
     
  6. Jan 11, 2020 #6

    DanielC

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    The knife is probably not straight. A lot of direct buys come to you like snakes sometimes, or low spots galore.

    I dont buy knives, generally, but I am friends with a lot of the polishers here, and it seems rather common.
     
  7. Jan 11, 2020 #7

    adam92

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    Shapton pro320, suehiro cerax 1000, naniwa junpaku 8000 & the Jnat i don't know the name.
     

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  8. Jan 11, 2020 #8

    adam92

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    I'm pretty sure i sharpen with consistent angle but i don't know why the angle seems like waving/ snake.

    Is my problem or the new knife of TF always like this ?

    When i sharpen my other knife never happen like this .
     
  9. Jan 11, 2020 #9

    DanielC

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    No, no. I mean, the knife itself is warped from what it looks like to me. Or someone mentioned overgrind. Look down the spine and edge from choil.
     
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  10. Jan 11, 2020 #10

    Midsummer

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    I think I would take some very deep breaths and then send the Photos to your contact. I mean the man who you bought the knife from. I would send him these photos. I would ask him to tell me how to make this knife into a highly functioning tool. The kind of tool they have a reputation for producing.
     
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  11. Jan 11, 2020 #11

    Midsummer

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    You may consider a video to show how you have approached this. I mean sharpening technique.
     
  12. Jan 11, 2020 #12

    ian

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    Oh. That’s interesting. Didn’t think about it being warped. I’ll be curious to hear if the edge is straight.

    I’m also confused, though. How would they have managed to put an edge on it at the shop if it was warped?

    Really sorry to hear about your problem, though, @adam92. I hope it resolves ok.
     
  13. Jan 11, 2020 #13

    DanielC

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    I dont want to misspeak as I am not sure about the brand, but there have been many instances that I know of, of friends needing to deal with low spots, or waviness when buying various brands direct. Sanmai with soft jacket will bend and take a set, so this could have happened anywhere, including shipment.

    I'm assuming the blade was sharpened on a relatively flat rock. When I see 2 points of contact like that, it means something is out of alignment, or that rock isnt as flat as it should be (which is never the case for me).
     
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  14. Jan 11, 2020 #14

    adam92

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    I Would send the picture to seller & see what they reply to me.
     
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  15. Jan 11, 2020 #15

    adam92

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    I'm confirm my stone is super flat, If the knife overgrind, will it shorten the knife life ?
     
  16. Jan 11, 2020 #16

    Midsummer

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    He will want to know that you have flat stones and good technique.

    let us know what you find

    Best of luck,
     
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  17. Jan 11, 2020 #17

    Midsummer

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    I do not know if all over grinds are correctable.

    I can not imagine fixing a over grind like yours without much time and steel loss.
     
  18. Jan 11, 2020 #18

    Kippington

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    The edge isn't straight. Look down the choil, then look above it and you'll see a curve along the edge.

    You'll need to straighten it then regrind it a bit to fix. It looks like you've done quite a bit of grinding already which might need to be reversed a bit.
     
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  19. Jan 11, 2020 #19

    Midsummer

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    I agree with the two that said not straight blade. Overgrind would not be shiny on the opposing side.
     
  20. Jan 11, 2020 #20

    adam92

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    Do i need to resharpen again or coarse stone to make it straight edge again ?

    Or is still useable & can be fixing little by little everytime i sharp ?

    I'm scaring losing too much steel & i assume this will took long time to fix.
     
  21. Jan 11, 2020 #21

    adam92

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    Sound like same as thinning job, Do i have to fix it now or maybe is better to fix until when i need to do the thinning job in the future? Might be better to save some steel ?
     
  22. Jan 11, 2020 #22

    JBroida

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    if you happen to be near LA, you are more than welcome to bring it in and we can look at it together to help you better understand what is going on and how you can fix it
     
  23. Jan 11, 2020 #23

    adam92

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    Hi Jon, I'm really appreciate for you kind, But Sadly I'm in the farthest country (New Zealand) .

    If am in LA now i won't have those headache problem cause i know you can help me.
     
  24. Jan 11, 2020 #24

    ian

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    If it’s an overgrind, I expect you’d correct it with thinning. But you should stop listening to me now that Kippington, DanielC and JBroida are paying attention. I don’t really know anything.

    (I’ll be interested to hear if you can tell if the edge is straight, though.)
     
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  25. Jan 11, 2020 #25

    adam92

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    How do i straighten the blade? I don't understand What's mean, Just now u use the ruler & i found out There's a small curve on the righ side blade, is that why my blade can't touch the stone ?
     
  26. Jan 11, 2020 #26

    Codered

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    Don't want to upset the TF fans but if you check the postings about Teruyasu Fujiwara on KKF before the TF hype started in 2018, you will find out that most of the people complained about the inconsistency in the grind especially low spots in grinds. It is the main reason i stay away from these knives. I once tried to buy a TF Denka 240 and that's a 1000$ knife so not cheap, from a knife shop in Switzerland and the owner of the shop could not find me a single knife in his stock ( and he had many) without over grinds. He said that TF knive are "special in this regard"
    I don't know why some people buy knives without checking the full history of the maker the pros and the cons.
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2020
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  27. Jan 11, 2020 #27

    adam92

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    I never tried white one steel before & i heard TF knife make good heating on White one, I do lots of research on KKF before i place the order, I can't afford DENKA so my only option is Maboroshi, I know the cons is grind inconsistent but i didn't expect so serious.

    Anyway, Maybe time over time after i thinning the knife will solve the grinding problem?
     
  28. Jan 11, 2020 #28

    toddnmd

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    A bend is different from an over grind, and requires a different solution. A bend needs to be bent back straight. An easier solution (in skilled and experienced hands) than an over grind. And it doesn’t require removing a lot of metal to fix, as an over grind does.
     
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  29. Jan 11, 2020 #29

    J.C

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    Have you tried using sharpie/marker to check? I used it every time to check low spots.
    It also call tell you if your knife edge is straight or not.
     

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  30. Jan 11, 2020 #30

    adam92

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    Just now i using sharpie & ruler to check & realise there low spot need long time to took away, Now I'm thinking should i use atoma 400 to do the job or order another Shapton pro 120 for the job.
     

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