Justablacktee
Well-Known Member
Murata Aogami 1 love ! ( Factory finish and low spot erased, except the big one at the heel
, last polish on Uchigumori and free patina !!)
My favorite color is BLUE!.............A patina thread.
- Thread starter Jim
- Start date
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Murata Aogami 1 love ! ( Factory finish and low spot erased, except the big one at the heel
, last polish on Uchigumori and free patina !!)
nakiriknaifuwaifu
Senior Member
Stainless clad patina, blue
tostadas
Hobbyist / Craftsman
JNS Munetoshi 210mm. Burnt the handle, reshaped/polished the ferrule, did a good amount of thinning, then full sandpaper progression to naturals.
Original grind arrived thicker than my Mazaki. It's still full convex, but much more responsive now.
Original grind arrived thicker than my Mazaki. It's still full convex, but much more responsive now.
How did you reshape the ferrule ?JNS Munetoshi 210mm. Burnt the handle, reshaped/polished the ferrule, did a good amount of thinning, then full sandpaper progression to naturals.
Original grind arrived thicker than my Mazaki. It's still full convex, but much more responsive now.
user 16756
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corollary question, how did the burning go? I havent found a ton of info on dying/burning ho wood and this is one of the things that keeps me from buying some of Maxim's knives (and the Kato/Toyama I have bought have since gotten new handles)
tostadas
Hobbyist / Craftsman
I clamped the knife between 2 pieces of 2x4 to hold it in place. I marked off the endpoint of the taper with some masking tape, then used a flat file wrapped with sandpaper and slowly sanded it by eye. Started with 220grit and went up to 2500. The horn ferrule is really easy to sand down so it didnt take much effort. Instead I just focused on making sure it was flat/even. It was actually pretty minimal reshaping, and more of an experiment to get an idea of what feels good, so maybe I can use similar ideas for the future. Here's a pic of the profile with the front part of the D tapered down (the left side also got a little bit).
This is the first attempt I made at scorching the ho handle. I used a bernzomatic 8000 and propane which I bought for sous vide. Theres some more info in my other post, but in general I just protected the ferrule and went max heat on the wood super quick. I experimented with different textures using a wire brush, but after scorching it didnt seem to make much of a difference. I suspect the specific piece of wood used for the handle has more affect on the final product than any pre-treatment.
The end result definitely feels like an improvement over the stock ho which feels really cheap. The burnt handle feels like a tighter grain structure, and also a bit smoother.
https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/threads/scorching-handles.53514/post-815034
I used a newly purchased Misono Dragon 240 at work today. My experience with Swedish steel has been that it is not that reactive. Sort of surprised at the rainbow of color that a brief morning's work yielded on this steel......
Anryu and Aritsugu.
Tatsuo Ikeda Honyaki Fukubiki
DrEriksson
Senior Member
Some crazy blue on my Kono FM
tostadas
Hobbyist / Craftsman
After evening out the rough grind on my munetoshi butcher and refinishing it, it's taking an interesting patina on only the core and KU
VICTOR J CREAZZI
Senior Member
Got a nice rosy patina from cutting a yam.
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First cuts on Takada Suiboku
Woshigeren
Well-Known Member
First patina post:
Masamoto KS
Woshigeren
Well-Known Member
Herder K2
Quite pleased with the colors on this Masakane SK Honesuki after just a couple uses
When you keep a knife just for meat...
sidey
Well-Known Member
Konosuke MM
Toyama dammy.
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