DisconnectedAG
Well-Known Member
Dave, what's all the big machinery on the cart? It looks like something out of an alchemy workshop.. And the hose on the back indicates that water comes in to something, I guess?
My fist time sharpening barber scissors
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The box looking machine is a flathone. It's a reversible variable speed 6" magnetic disk with an arm/clamp. It's a very basic model, you should see some of the more elaborate ones.
The hose on the back is actually wire, an extension cord.
The hose on the back is actually wire, an extension cord.
DisconnectedAG
Well-Known Member
I had to youtube to understand what that was. Sadly I'm a dirty amateur, so I will keep to doing everything freehand for now. Have just ordered a Belgian Blue finishing stone that I will try for the end of the progression after the 8k, and then we'll see what my barber mate says.The box looking machine is a flathone. It's a reversible variable speed 6" magnetic disk with an arm/clamp. It's a very basic model, you should see some of the more elaborate ones.
The hose on the back is actually wire, an extension cord.
Got some of the scissors cleaned up with some steel wool and polishing, there are still some spots on them but I don't wanna bring out something more aggressive and risk removing too much material when I hae ni idea what I am doing ^^ It only seems to be beautyspots too and I can live with a few spots.
The big one is quite long (Leatherman Wave for size comparison)
The medium sized one didn't close fully so I went with the fast and easy solution of simply dremeling away a bit at the handle and it worked fine
The set on them seems okay so the next step should just be to sharpen them when I find some time between the studies and I'll see how that goes.
The big one is quite long (Leatherman Wave for size comparison)
The medium sized one didn't close fully so I went with the fast and easy solution of simply dremeling away a bit at the handle and it worked fine
The set on them seems okay so the next step should just be to sharpen them when I find some time between the studies and I'll see how that goes.
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DisconnectedAG
Well-Known Member
Nice job on the rust removal, man. I would definitely suggest starting with the scissor that comes apart, as that will be much easier to sharpen. Also, I note that you're probably Swedish.Got some of the scissors cleaned up with some steel wool and polishing, there are still some spots on them but I don't wanna bring out something more aggressive and risk removing too much material when I hae ni idea what I am doing ^^ It only seems to be beautyspots too and I can live with a few spots.
The big one is quite long (Leatherman Wave for size comparison)
The medium sized one didn't close fully so I went with the fast and easy solution of simply dremeling away a bit at the handle and it worked fine
The set on them seems okay so the next step should just be to sharpen them when I find some time between the studies and I'll see how that goes.
Hej hej.Nice job on the rust removal, man. I would definitely suggest starting with the scissor that comes apart, as that will be much easier to sharpen. Also, I note that you're probably Swedish.
Halli Hallå!
They all come apart, I just happened to turn them the wrong way when I took the photo so the screw doesn't show
I have a few that doesn't come apart though, how does harpening them work? If you try to sharpen a bit on the backside to flatten and remove the burr, don't you risk having the edges not meet?
Halli Hallå!
They all come apart, I just happened to turn them the wrong way when I took the photo so the screw doesn't show
I have a few that doesn't come apart though, how does harpening them work? If you try to sharpen a bit on the backside to flatten and remove the burr, don't you risk having the edges not meet?
Generally, I try to only just remove the burr on the back with those type. One stroke just to get the burr and then back to the bevel side. I'll even do the slightest angle to only get at the burr. If you do it gently it won't ruin the contact alignment.
DisconnectedAG
Well-Known Member
I can report that my friend used the first pair professionally today and was happy with the performance. The ride was smooth, sharpness was satisfactory and performance did not deteriorate after initial use.
Awesome!
Got the first one sharpened. The ride line wasn't perfectly even and got a bit wider near the top and it has probbly been sharpened with something earlier since near the end of the bevel toward the handle the edge dipped down and was a bit below the line of the rest of the scissor so the part closest to the pivot was tough to sharpen.
But it cuts single ply tissue paper dry or wet, it cuts hair and the cutting feels smooth. So that is mroe than good enough for me
But it cuts single ply tissue paper dry or wet, it cuts hair and the cutting feels smooth. So that is mroe than good enough for me
I was doing some scissors today that someone gave me and I think I may have f’ed up the ride line. They’re old and were all rusted and I didn’t really think twice about the fact that they were different from the house scissors that I’ve done for a couple people before. I’ve only done scissors a few times.
Anyway, I started by just sharpening the bevels a bit and deburring on the flat side, but the action was still horrible, so I removed some steel on the flat side with a 1k. Most of it cuts well now, but the tip doesn’t cut. If I try to cut paper towel it just goes between the scissors when it’s within 1cm of the tip.
Anyway, only then did I find this thread and read @Dave Martell’s awesome advice above. Anyway, here are some pics. How do I fix this?
Second pic looks ok to me, first one less ok.
Anyway, I started by just sharpening the bevels a bit and deburring on the flat side, but the action was still horrible, so I removed some steel on the flat side with a 1k. Most of it cuts well now, but the tip doesn’t cut. If I try to cut paper towel it just goes between the scissors when it’s within 1cm of the tip.
Anyway, only then did I find this thread and read @Dave Martell’s awesome advice above. Anyway, here are some pics. How do I fix this?
Second pic looks ok to me, first one less ok.
Some hair shears (like cheap Japanese/Chinese models as well as German barbering scissors) don't have true ride lines so when we sharpen these we have to leave the inside of the blades alone, treating them very much like household scissors.
When I came across scissors in this condition I'd refuse them because I've never been able to fix this situation.
Don't feel too bad as I've done this to shears myself, not knowing how to deal with them, and I'd bet just about every pro shear sharpener has done so at one time or another.
Having said all that, I'd bet that they can be fixed by someone who knows more than I do. I'd guess that regrinding the inside hollow and setting the blades (by hammering the twist into them) to get the blades to interact correctly would fix this. Like I said though, that's just a guess on my part, way above my skillset.
When I came across scissors in this condition I'd refuse them because I've never been able to fix this situation.
Don't feel too bad as I've done this to shears myself, not knowing how to deal with them, and I'd bet just about every pro shear sharpener has done so at one time or another.
Having said all that, I'd bet that they can be fixed by someone who knows more than I do. I'd guess that regrinding the inside hollow and setting the blades (by hammering the twist into them) to get the blades to interact correctly would fix this. Like I said though, that's just a guess on my part, way above my skillset.
Thanks! That's helpful, if disheartening. My initial inclination was to try to sharpen the inside of them again, but sharpen the tip less, so they'd make better contact there. But probably that would just make it worse. Maybe I should just give up then and try to make it right with the client. Hopefully these weren't terrible rusty old scissors that the person's grandfather had given them on their deathbed.
That said, it's just the last cm or so that's a problem... otherwise they pass the three tests you outlined above no problem.
I'm confused again. Do basically all scissors function in the way described above? It seems like for the most part the inside is always hollow ground. These crappy plastic ones are hollow ground, for instance:
And so are these:
With these two (and many others), I don’t see a visible ride line, though. Perhaps the concavity starts out all the way to the edge?
Question) Do you approach all scissors the same way, starting with the ride line? Or are there some where you just do the bevel, deburr somehow, and are done with it? How do you tell which is which? Also, while I’m asking questions, what do you do about that blue knife above where the plastic thing sticks up in the middle of the ride? I’m assuming I just don’t really do much to the inside.
And so are these:
With these two (and many others), I don’t see a visible ride line, though. Perhaps the concavity starts out all the way to the edge?
Question) Do you approach all scissors the same way, starting with the ride line? Or are there some where you just do the bevel, deburr somehow, and are done with it? How do you tell which is which? Also, while I’m asking questions, what do you do about that blue knife above where the plastic thing sticks up in the middle of the ride? I’m assuming I just don’t really do much to the inside.
