SG2/R2 is still sharpenable on AlOx up to a certain point, but gets tricky, and kind of cusp-y at higher grits. Pretty easy to sharpen and de-burr on decent AlOx stones around the 600-1000 grit level, like the Naniwa Pro's, Shapton Glass, Suehiro Cerax, etc. Especially if it's thin enough BTE.
However, it gets trickier at higher grits with AlOx. Partly due to somewhat stubborn burr issues, combined with having a vanadium carbide volume that is really cusp-y for AlOx to be able to shape with finer grits that aren't as hard/harder (Or at least bigger, which is how the coarser grits get away with it.) than the carbides themselves. You can get by with ones that are larger than the carbides, but once they are as small or smaller than those carbides, it gets a lot trickier.
Sharpening SG2/R2 reminds me of Aogami Super at high hardness, but not as easy to deburr. If you're using AlOx, it's best that you start with stones in the 600-1000 grit level to actually shape the apex, and then use a finer AlOx stone to create a hybrid edge. Without that initial coarser grit, finer 3-6K+ AlOx stones tend to result in an overly smooth edge on this steel for their grit. Diamonds are a bit more reliable.