Need a good hunting knife

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What are some characteristics to define a good hunting knife other from kitchen knives?
Man,where to start? A good hunting knife is one you like.This is where there are so many opinions and none of them wrong or bad.First off,guess you have to match the knife to the game that you will be dressing out.For me,a Rambo type knife which are so prevalent these days are out of the question for this guy and they seem to be flooding so much of the market.Don't believe me,just type in hunting knives and I'll bet the biggest,badass Zombie killer will be in your face.For me,my likes for deer is something 3 to 3-1/2 inches long with a drop point is what I prefer,though I might push the length of the blade to 4 inches if I had to.The drop point is so that when I open the cavity,I won't be cutting into the organs and making a stinky,slimy mess.I like a good purchase on the handle but also like to be able to place my finger on the blade with a finger choil or a thumb on top of the spine in some cases.In other words,I want the ability to place my hand on the knife for any position I hold the knife in and be comfortable in knowing I am not going to be cutting into my fingers. I like either a flat grind or a hollow grind as I find it hard to sharpen a convex grind which are usually thick on a hunting knife.Convex is a good grind on a bushcraft knife though but I don't plan on chopping firewood with my hunter. Ideal handle material is probably like rubber so it doesn't slip when wet with blood but oh man,do I hate the looks of any of the rubber looking stuff,just to techie for me.This is coming from a guy who still thinks Woolrich hunting clothes are the best thing since sliced bread.Of course you are going to want a blade steel that you can sharpen and that will rely on what you use to sharpen with and your ability to use that system.
 
Man,where to start? A good hunting knife is one you like.This is where there are so many opinions and none of them wrong or bad.First off,guess you have to match the knife to the game that you will be dressing out.For me,a Rambo type knife which are so prevalent these days are out of the question for this guy and they seem to be flooding so much of the market.Don't believe me,just type in hunting knives and I'll bet the biggest,badass Zombie killer will be in your face.For me,my likes for deer is something 3 to 3-1/2 inches long with a drop point is what I prefer,though I might push the length of the blade to 4 inches if I had to.The drop point is so that when I open the cavity,I won't be cutting into the organs and making a stinky,slimy mess.I like a good purchase on the handle but also like to be able to place my finger on the blade with a finger choil or a thumb on top of the spine in some cases.In other words,I want the ability to place my hand on the knife for any position I hold the knife in and be comfortable in knowing I am not going to be cutting into my fingers. I like either a flat grind or a hollow grind as I find it hard to sharpen a convex grind which are usually thick on a hunting knife.Convex is a good grind on a bushcraft knife though but I don't plan on chopping firewood with my hunter. Ideal handle material is probably like rubber so it doesn't slip when wet with blood but oh man,do I hate the looks of any of the rubber looking stuff,just to techie for me.This is coming from a guy who still thinks Woolrich hunting clothes are the best thing since sliced bread.Of course you are going to want a blade steel that you can sharpen and that will rely on what you use to sharpen with and your ability to use that system.

Thanks for the fill in! It makes a lot of sense.
 
What are some characteristics to define a good hunting knife other from kitchen knives?
My list:

Good edge retention. Pausing halfway thru a deer because my knife dulled is annoying. If it does the steel needs to be “not impossible to hone”. It’s a paradox. I like an Accusharp. It’s fast and safe with bloody hands. And dim light

Sturdy. I always try to cut thru cartilage. A solid blade helps. I’m not great with leg joints ( getting better).

Color. Ideally I want a knife I can find visually if i set it down in bloody green grass. Orange is great. Black is nice. Camo? No bueno.

Blade shape. 3.5” -4” makes a good knife for me. It’s a multitasker. Some belly to the shape. Sharp spine should I need to strike a Ferro Rod.

The handle can’t get icy slick when bloody. I know a rancher that only gets the very tip of his fingers bloody when he guts a critter. I’m not that guy.

aesthetically I want the knife to look good. :)
 
What are some characteristics to define a good hunting knife other from kitchen knives?
I had my hands on a Buck Vanguard #192 and I got to say,it is a very nice feeling knife in the hand.It has a hollow ground grind and the blade measured 4-1/8 th inches and it's beautiful to look at. I know that I said I like a blade 3 to 3-1/2 inches but this 4 inch blade on this knife feels just right for some reason.The blade steel is 420 HC which I understand is a good stainless with a nice heat treat so that it has decent edge retention.I seen them advertised for $89 and I have a feeling that the knife is probably worth while deal for a field dresser.You might want to check that one out.I am.
 
I don't think you will go wrong with the Buck. Unlike others, I have never had any problem edge holding wise to go through a single deer with a decent factory knife.
 
I think the earlier comments have it basically dead right:

Fixed blade – no folders, no, not ever

Edge retention – Dozier’s D2 is particularly good here but so is 52100 from any reputable maker

Blade shape -Drop point is a perfect shape to me and it shouldn’t be much longer than 3.5’. the comment about long Rambo or survival knives being terrible hunters should be underscored. Less is more.

Handle – shape is purely a personal preference and no-doubt related to cutting style but it needs to be secure in your hand at all times. Sheep horn or stag scales are particularly good to me. They don’t slip when messy and look good when they’re cleaned up. The only thing they don’t address is the ease of locating your knife if you put it down. That’s why orange and yellow mcarta is popular for hunting knives, at least the ones made for hunters, but I just prefer material supplied by nature, even if the synthetic stuff is more indestructible.

In short, check out the specs on a Loveless drop point hunter and you will have a dam near perfect hunting knife; and since most of us wont’ be able to use an authentic Loveless for these purposes, there are a bunch of great makers who can make you that design with scales and a steel of your choice.

Just my 2 cents.
 
Going back to the 70's,before computers and the internet,I started my life as a deer hunter with the Buck 110 folder.I still have that same knife today.Back then,most hard core deer hunters didn't know that you are never,ever to use a folding knife for hunting deer.Why just yesterday,at lunch,I asked my 87 year old uncle,who still is one of those hard core deer hunters what he uses for field dressing a deer and guess what? a Buck 110 folder. I think this post fits right in with the post above where CTKC says no folders ever. lol and I think Dave said that life is to short for a folder in the deer woods.I think my 87 year old uncle proves that statement wrong.I say all this with humor in my words.:)
 
A bit late but I thought I's throw in my two cents. I hunted deer (and turkey) for about 15 years so I've field dressed and butchered quite a few whitetails. I've used a number of knives both my own and those of my friends. As everyone knows there are a billion "hunting" knives out there of many styles and they all work. My personal preference is a 4-5 inch drop or semi drop point, because it's easier to get deep up there to cut the windpipe. Friends who used a 6-7 inch knife would borrow mine just for that task. I would never use a folder if at all avoidable simply for the post task cleaning involved. I used to use a Buck Vanguard until the tip broke off. I then bought a Cold Steel Master Hunter which I used the most. The synthetic Kraton handle allowed me to drop my knife in a bucket of water at the end and leave it there until the next day. Couldn't imagine doing that with wood scales or stacked leather. The other benefit of a Kraton handle is that with a hidden tang the knife is very light when carrying in the woods. Anyway just some personal observations.
 
A bit late but I thought I's throw in my two cents. I hunted deer (and turkey) for about 15 years so I've field dressed and butchered quite a few whitetails. I've used a number of knives both my own and those of my friends. As everyone knows there are a billion "hunting" knives out there of many styles and they all work. My personal preference is a 4-5 inch drop or semi drop point, because it's easier to get deep up there to cut the windpipe. Friends who used a 6-7 inch knife would borrow mine just for that task. I would never use a folder if at all avoidable simply for the post task cleaning involved. I used to use a Buck Vanguard until the tip broke off. I then bought a Cold Steel Master Hunter which I used the most. The synthetic Kraton handle allowed me to drop my knife in a bucket of water at the end and leave it there until the next day. Couldn't imagine doing that with wood scales or stacked leather. The other benefit of a Kraton handle is that with a hidden tang the knife is very light when carrying in the woods. Anyway just some personal observations.
Not to late at all.I am still searching.Funny,one of the knives that you mention,I just had my hands on to look at a few days ago.That was the Buck Vanguard. I wasn't really sure how good it would be in the lasting department and edge holding properties.The profile is definitely one that I like.The blade is a tad longer then I like at 4-1/4 inches but would be doable.I was so use to using 3-1/2 inch blades,I guess.Not sure how the Blade steel of 420HC stacks up.
Thanks for stopping in.
 
As someone that has field dressed well over a 100 deer over the years- plus few elk, I've used folders about as often as fixed blades. Cleaning might be a little harder but I usually have most of a year to to do it! :) No broken blades, no failed locks (some of the knives were even slip-joints). One of the most prolific deer killers (hundreds of deer, hogs, elk, red deer in Scotland etc. etc.) I ever knew (and he worked for Camillus Knives) had a tiny little folder with about a 2.5-inch drop point blade he swore by. Specially made for him at the factory and I don't think they were ever marketed. I have one around here someplace that I have never used. Just not my personal taste in a hunter.
 
As someone that has field dressed well over a 100 deer over the years- plus few elk, I've used folders about as often as fixed blades. Cleaning might be a little harder but I usually have most of a year to to do it! :) No broken blades, no failed locks (some of the knives were even slip-joints). One of the most prolific deer killers (hundreds of deer, hogs, elk, red deer in Scotland etc. etc.) I ever knew (and he worked for Camillus Knives) had a tiny little folder with about a 2.5-inch drop point blade he swore by. Specially made for him at the factory and I don't think they were ever marketed. I have one around here someplace that I have never used. Just not my personal taste in a hunter.
I love to hear those kind of stories.
 
Benchmade Steep Country. I think it covers all your criteria.
Yes,I have been considering that one. It would be nice if you were able to remove the handle scales but it is a one piece type rubber.I seen a video on youtube where the person removed the handle with a knife and found the tang very rusty.It appears that moisture works it's way between the tang and the rubber and gets trapped.I do like the steel used which is S30V. That's a good steel. I have it on one of my folders and it holds up very well. I am still considering the knife though and trying to figure out how I could combat the rust problem in the handle area.
 
20180203_102116.jpg I have used either an SS Mora Companion fixed blade or an old Mora laminated carbon steel fixed blade utility knife for most of my deer. Same knives get used for turning some of the chickens and turkeys into food.

I have also used the folding scalpel blade knives, but throw away blades probably aren't going to be a popular solution for knife sharpening people.

Below are pictures of these knives & a folding saw I like to bring along. They're all effective, yet cheap enough to not stress overly if the snow "eats them". Colors are chosen to make it harder for the snow to get away with devouring them...

20190226_171159.jpg
work
 
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I hunt with a guy who uses a havalon like that with the disposable blades. He thinks they’re great and they’re certainly sharp. For someone who’s not into knives or sharpening it’s a pretty good solution, but I can understand that not being a popular suggestion around here haha!
 
I hunt with a guy who uses a havalon like that with the disposable blades. He thinks they’re great and they’re certainly sharp. For someone who’s not into knives or sharpening it’s a pretty good solution, but I can understand that not being a popular suggestion around here haha!
Me too! My buddy loves them.

I don’t. People toss the dull ones away as litter. Seen it with my own eyes. The temptation is certainly there.

And I’m not a doom/gloom prepper type person. But in the wilderness elk hunting I could easily imagine the hunt becoming an emergency type situation. If so, a sturdy knife is necessary.
 
People toss the dull ones away as litter. Seen it with my own eyes. The temptation is certainly there.

Dangerous and irresponsible as hell.

I learned the hardest way a long time ago not to EVER casually dispose of razor/utility knife/scalpel blades, broken glass, wood with nail points sticking out, needles street people left behind my property & any other "sharps".

Reaching into the trash can and finding a (mostly) dull blade is good for some stitches. Leaving one outdoors is asking to carry a bleeding dog to your car, then paying a vet bill.

My used blades get stuck onto a piece of tape which is folded over edge/points, the protected blades are then stuffed inside an empty gatorade or water bottle with bottle cap screwed back on after.
 
Well,I placed my orders in this morning for two knives.
This one:https://www.knivesshipfree.com/benc...-hunt-steep-country-hunter-orange-santoprene/
and a Morakniv Companion in Stainless steel for a back-up knife. The Only thing I don't like about the Benchmade Steep Country is that the rubber handle is not removable as water can get trapped and cause rusting on the tang.I like the steel very much as I think S30V is a great steel from my experience with a few folders that I have and abuse.The blade is short at 3-1/2",drop point and has a flat grind and jimping on the spine.To try and combat a rust problem on the tang,I might try and spread a little beeswax around the areas where moisture entry is possible.
The purchase of the Mora Companion is to see what all the excitement is about this knife and use as a back-up . I am forgetful and might end up leaving my belt knife at home or if in the process of field dressing my deer,a crow comes along and steals the main knife from my hands.
 
The purchase of the Mora Companion is to see what all the excitement is about this knife and use as a back-up . I am forgetful and might end up leaving my belt knife at home or if in the process of field dressing my deer,a crow comes along and steals the main knife from my hands.

For any equipment that represents a "single point of failure"?

Two is ONE and one is NONE.

-------

Words to live by. But not a good quote to use during your araingement on charges of bigamy, divorce & etc.
 
For any equipment that represents a "single point of failure"?

Two is ONE and one is NONE.

-------

Words to live by. But not a good quote to use during your araingement on charges of bigamy, divorce & etc.
Lol,you sure have a way with words.That was good.
 
Folders are all I have ever used, compact and light. As for cleaning, hot water will remove the tallow.
I own some vintage Randalls, but they are too bulky for the field.
A 3 inch blade is plenty for me.
 
Folders are all I have ever used, compact and light. As for cleaning, hot water will remove the tallow.
I own some vintage Randalls, but they are too bulky for the field.
A 3 inch blade is plenty for me.
I have used a folder to some extent also,Buck 110,to be exact but prefer a small fix blade now.My little Buck 110 used to get pretty slippery in my hand because of the wood and the design of the handle,causing my hand to slip forward.Pilot error,no doubt.Been using a very old Schrade Sharp Finger for years but that is in the history box.It too was a bronc to hold onto when things got slippery and the aggressive trailing point is something that I never cared for.
 
For any equipment that represents a "single point of failure"?

Two is ONE and one is NONE.

-------

Words to live by. But not a good quote to use during your araingement on charges of bigamy, divorce & etc.


Not me. Well not always.
I’m good with ONE. Hunting elk in Idaho will really make you evaluate what you have in your pack. Any weight savings is a good thing. A great thing.

I had one. An Alpha Wolf from Knives of Alaska. We got thru an elk. It’s an okay knife. I did give it away.
 
My hunting, knife-nut, friend swears by Fallkniven F1.
 
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