Need some advice narrowing down a line knife (questionnaire time!)

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ampersandcetera

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 26, 2020
Messages
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Location
Oregon
LOCATION
Portland, OR - USA

KNIFE TYPE
What type of knife are you interested in: Gyuto or k-tip

Are you right or left handed? Left-handed

Are you interested in a Western handle or Japanese handle? Large-ish octagonal wa-handles are most comfortable for me, but this is not a deal breaker

What length of knife (blade) are you interested in (in inches or millimeters)? 200-225

Do you require a stainless knife? (Yes or no) - SS Clad, lower reactivity monosteel, or semi-stainless for work on the line

What is your absolute maximum budget for your knife? $400


KNIFE USE
Do you primarily intend to use this knife at home or a professional environment? Professional environment, on the line

What are the main tasks you primarily intend to use the knife for: on the fly veg prep, slicing fruit and tomatoes, slicing sandwich breads, portioning cooked proteins

What knife, if any, are you replacing? Filling a need in my knife roll for a middleweight, medium length user

Do you have a particular grip that you primarily use? Pinch, always

What cutting motions do you primarily use? Push cutter most of the time, sometimes draw cuts or quick chopping tasks

What improvements do you want from your current knife? Looking for something that keeps a toothy edge as it wears (because tomato skins, etc) and isn't nearly as reactive as my Mazaki in White#2

Aesthetics: don't care--expecting a fair amount of scratches and some staining to occur

Comfort: Middleweight, a little blade heavy, I can always replace a wa-handle if need be. I'm generally a fan of the feel in-hand of Sanjo style blades with lots of distal taper

Ease of Use: SS clad carbon or Semi-stainless for minimal babying on the line

Edge Retention: good to great - looking for something that wears down with some bite like an SKD or a Blue #2?

KNIFE MAINTENANCE
Do you use a bamboo, wood, rubber, or synthetic cutting board? Plastic boards at work, unfortunately

Do you sharpen your own knives? With stones 1k, 5k, 6k, and a leather strop--at least once or twice per week as needed, with daily touch-ups in the morning and quick honing mid-shift.

SPECIAL REQUESTS/COMMENTS

My current work roll is as follows:
-Yoshikane SKD tsuchime 240 gyuto - love this knife, wish it were 4+cm taller, cuts beautifully and keeps a lovely toothy edge all day, but it's too long for use during a busy service
-Mazaki White#2 kasumi 180 bunka - my hard use knife, wish it were a 210 k-tip, super reactive and kind of annoying to keep clean during service, loses its bite too soon during service if I'm having to do a ton of tomato slices, cutting bread or sandwiches, etc.
-Toyama Blue#2 ss clad 180 nakiri - love the way this knife cuts, feels super thin bte but I haven't had any chipping issues with it thus far, a real veg prep monster but no tip makes it less useful during service, probably too tall for a line knife
-Konosuku SLD GS+ 150 petty - tiny, light, ultra nimble, great for citrus prep, fine tasks, etc, but too short and delicate to leave on my board during service
-Misono swedish carbon 270 - impractically large for the line, lesser edge holding than anything else I have, but tough and pretty low maintenance for full carbon steel

So I've been tossing around a couple of ideas for what my kit is missing and here's what I've come up with so far...

-Watoyama ss clad 210 - too thin bte for hard use on the line? I'm concerned about micro-chipping, mostly.
-Yoshikane SKD 210 k-tip - I already have the 240, and variety is the spice of life or whatever.
-Konosuke HD2 - curious if the steel wears down round or toothy, also concerned about the robustness of the thin-ish blade
-Steelport - An outlier, but I'm really curious about the performance of these. I've only ever had a pocket knife in 52100, so I'm not sure about the edge retention and feel, but I know that it's less reactive than a typical iron clad. I also live in PDX where they're made. Should have picked up that user from @ftermath a few months ago... I love the blade shape and it felt great in the hand at Knife House.
-Pray to the knife gods for an affordable/beat up Shihan or Kippington to show up on B/S/T on a day that I can afford it- a man can dream.

I've been kicking myself for not snagging that Tsourkan practice knife all month. Seems like most of the cool stuff always shows up on B/S/T right when all of the bills are due.

The other folks on the line have more robust and practical knives for service--all 210s (an Ohishi and Tadafusa in SLD, and a Sukenari in SG2)--but I'm looking for something of a goldilocks knife: a high-performing steel with strong edge retention/teeth that can take a good amount of abuse during an average workday and won't be a pain to keep tomato-slicing sharp. I'm assuming that I've got a make a compromise somewhere, right?

TL;DR - 200-225 beater/user/work knife that's tough, lower maintenance, comfortable, and with a toothy edge that will survive a 12-hour line shift with just a dry towel and a ceramic hone.
 
Yoshikane SKD 210 gyuto all day long. You mentioned you are tossing around k-tip as a possible. That's not my preference generally but I get it. On the lines I've been on I'd prefer the standard gyuto profile, but IME I didn't need a lot of tip work on the line. If your mincing shallots on the line, I'd suggest you revisit how you set up your mise en place. 😉 Let us know what you choose!
 
Not being a pro, it's very hard for me to know the performance in those conditions, however, the Tsunehisa Ginsan line is worth a serious look. My 210 nashiji gyuto is something of a middle weight and the steel is excellent. They are tough but keen and easy to maintain. Both my Tsunehisa gyuto and nakiri are very symmetrically (50/50) ground.

They also make k-tips.

I believe @labor of love is also a pro cook and a fan.
 
As you're a left-handed, wondering whether your Misono carbon is the inverted version. Misono's UX-10 could interest you, with the remarkable bite it keeps even after dulling. That being said, sharpening it is no fun.
 
A lot of pros I know like the Stainless ginga. It’s not middleweight, but worth considering. Masakane is also worth a look. Doesn’t really fit your criteria, but works really well in a pro environment. The SK is really robust. It’s not as “sexy” as the more expensive steels, but there’s a reason it was used extensively in pro environments for such a long time. Sharpen only to 1k for that “toothy feel.” Also usable with the ceramic rod just fine.

You mentioned middleweight, Sanjo, stainless. Why not kaeru? There’s also wakui in V2 or kochi.
 
A lot of pros I know like the Stainless ginga. It’s not middleweight, but worth considering. Masakane is also worth a look. Doesn’t really fit your criteria, but works really well in a pro environment. The SK is really robust. It’s not as “sexy” as the more expensive steels, but there’s a reason it was used extensively in pro environments for such a long time. Sharpen only to 1k for that “toothy feel.” Also usable with the ceramic rod just fine.

You mentioned middleweight, Sanjo, stainless. Why not kaeru? There’s also wakui in V2 or kochi.
Kaeru stock grind isn't the best for a lefty.
 
If you like the Toyama nakiri, have you considered Watanabe Pro or Toyama gyuto?
Yeah I've been on the lookout for them on BST from time to time. I just know the iron clads tend to be on the more reactive side. Maybe someday I'll have a couple of Watoyamas and Toyanabes in the rotation.
 
A lot of pros I know like the Stainless ginga. It’s not middleweight, but worth considering. Masakane is also worth a look. Doesn’t really fit your criteria, but works really well in a pro environment. The SK is really robust. It’s not as “sexy” as the more expensive steels, but there’s a reason it was used extensively in pro environments for such a long time. Sharpen only to 1k for that “toothy feel.” Also usable with the ceramic rod just fine.

You mentioned middleweight, Sanjo, stainless. Why not kaeru? There’s also wakui in V2 or kochi.
I'm curious about those masakanes on Bernal. Seems like something worth checking out. I don't know anything about SK steel or V2. I'll do some research.
 
I'm curious about those masakanes on Bernal. Seems like something worth checking out. I don't know anything about SK steel or V2. I'll do some research.

My Masakane honesuki in home use breaking down a couple chickens a month and various degrees of deboning them does quite well. I haven't had it terribly long but right now I guess I'd put it sort of like an AUS8 type level for edge retention and sharpenability.
 
I have the Yoshi 210 K-tip. I love it (as a home user), but I'd be worried about it being too delicate on the line. That tip feels pretty fragile. I have a 180 Gyuto that feels more practical

Does anyone use something like a Moritaka 210? I know it's reactive, so maybe that's a deal breaker. But it's not too expensive, and it will definitely hold an edge.
 
Can only comment on steels. As a pro, I really like r2/sg2. The kemadi bulat seems really sturdy too, but I haven’t put it through the ringer yet. Also looking to try Harbeer’s Zwear. My line knife is significantly smaller; Takeda NAS 170mm kosassa.
 
I have a Konosuke HD2 western 240mm in my knife roll and it can be a little chippy. I ended up with some visible chips when doing something stupid....... slicing crusty bread. Good news is was pretty easy to fix the edge on an 800 grit stone before moving to 3K.
 
I have a Konosuke HD2 western 240mm in my knife roll and it can be a little chippy. I ended up with some visible chips when doing something stupid....... slicing crusty bread. Good news is was pretty easy to fix the edge on an 800 grit stone before moving to 3K.
This is good to know. I've been impatient and cut many a loaf of sourdough on the fly with my Mazaki, fortunately without any chips, but I was eyeing that 210mm HD2 on BST to replace it as my line knife for service.

Very sad I missed that 180mm Shihan this morning.
 

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