Hey, I am Daniel from Indiana. I have really enjoyed cooking the past couple years and recently found that a good kitchen knife makes a huge difference. I bought a Shiro Kamo 210 Gyuto and am looking for some others to try out. Shibata, takeda, and Shiro Kamo have peaked my interest more than others at this point.
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Welcome.
Before jumping into another knife, where ya at on the sharpening path?
Before jumping into another knife, where ya at on the sharpening path?
I got the Blue #2 steel, it's my first fully reactive knife, but the maintenance is a lot easier than I thought it would be.
I actually read for a while on Reddit and went with the shapton 1000 stone. I've just been focusing on the correct angle and technique and just with that stone alone up and able to obtain pretty sharp blades!Welcome.
Before jumping into another knife, where ya at on the sharpening path?
Excellent and good for you! We're often trying to drag new folks into the sharpening side of things. With that skill in your kit you can explore so many different knives. Keep practicing and never hesitate to ask for guidance. Folks here are very helpful!
NotAddictedYet
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Welcome Hoosier neighbor!
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Welcome aboard, Daniel!
Once you've become familiar with the SP1k, you may consider a complimentary finer stone. A blue#2 is certainly worth it. It allows you to touch-up the edge for a very long time without a full sharpening. There are a lot of options, but I would consider the Shapton Glass 4k.
Once you've become familiar with the SP1k, you may consider a complimentary finer stone. A blue#2 is certainly worth it. It allows you to touch-up the edge for a very long time without a full sharpening. There are a lot of options, but I would consider the Shapton Glass 4k.
Thanks! I will definitely buy one and try it out. My father made me a double sided paddle strop. So far I used the 1000, then followed it up with what I believe is suede with a compound, then leather. Is the paddle stop worth using still with the 4k?
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With the right compound deburring is possible on a pad with soft carbon steel. No so with harder steel, and certainly not with SG2/R2. It will make the burr apparent though, pushing debris to one side where you can abrade it with a fine stone. Do the same with the other side.
It is no replacement for a finer stone, though. Use it with a light touch and a lower edge than when sharpening, or it may round the edge. Even the thinnest leather on the hardest base have some giving.
