New Tetsujin line?

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Can you get the same "banding" on Kono Tetsujin? Seems like they are the same.
Prob case by case. I know some Takadas show banding and some don't. I've seen some Kono Tetsujins that show banding even though they aren't etched (but most don't). Myojin said it took a lot of experimentation for the banding on the Tetsujin, so I think there may be some extra steps/changes in the way they're forged. There are some threads on here about controlling banding as well with some comments from makers (here's some comments from Kipp Alloy Banding aka steel segregation?). It is also possible that MFs are specifically selected for banding activity, and the rest becomes kasumis, much like how computer chips are binned.
 

DitmasPork

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this was a similar experience with my w1 monosteel kogetsu knife in Singapore. Do you just store it in a thin layer of cooking oil?
I took along camellia oil, the problem was that is was so humid, it was sometimes impossible getting the knives completely dry to properly apply oil. Didn’t really matter, not precious works of art, just tools—all my dad’s tools are rusted to an extent. Cleaning off rust before prepping was the regular ritual. Tetsujin was the most reactive, rust prone—not much rust developed on my Takada, Shigefusa or Yoshikane on the trip.
 
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This seems like a great use-case for a forced patina, have you considered that? I never have similar issues with my knives in houston (a swamp with lots of concrete), even when doing extensive outdoor cooks, etc. though most have a heavy patina that keeps re-activity to a minimum. With this frequent rust I’d be worried about micro-putting on the core leading to lower performance across the life of the knife.
 

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This seems like a great use-case for a forced patina, have you considered that? I never have similar issues with my knives in houston (a swamp with lots of concrete), even when doing extensive outdoor cooks, etc. though most have a heavy patina that keeps re-activity to a minimum. With this frequent rust I’d be worried about micro-putting on the core leading to lower performance across the life of the knife.
Having been to Houston many times, Hawaii is a bit different in that the air can be incredibly salty depending on which part of the island and wind direction. Not worried about rust affecting performance, it hasn’t; not worried about the knife’s lifespan, since I’ve got a bunch, and I’m sure they’ll outlive me. I do have a good ginsan gyuto, but prefer me carbons.
 

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Fair enough, I suppose. I use all my tools hard but like to maintain them fastidiously as well.

Different strokes for different folks.
I maintain my knives very well in NYC, but have accepted that rust is a given with my travel kit. My first travel kit was all cheap stuff—but soon realized that I should just travel with good knives—I’ve never lost a suitcase (knock on wood). Worse that can happen is loss or damage—worth the risk IMHO.
 

mpier

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I just got mine today from K&S, removed the lacquer coating and cleaned it with a little Flitz as I always do with a new knife. It definitely all but totally removed the metal flow pattern, it’s still there but much more faint than it was just after I removed the lacquer. Not the end of the world but it sure was purrty for about ten minutes. Anyhow haven’t used the knife yet but the edge feels very sharp and overall it is a beautiful thing.View attachment 183450 View attachment 183453
Finally got to use mine this morning, didn’t get a chance to freshen the edge on it but out of the box gotta say I really love this one. It just feels nice and smooth as it goes through product, she’s a keeper!!
 

DitmasPork

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About to give my Tetsujin an uchi powder treatment. Stay tuned.
60E5CBCD-2590-4AC4-ABAD-9101E51EB534.jpeg
 

DrD23

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Is the main difference vs the Kono and the Metal flow just finish? Similar grind and performance otherwise?
 

DitmasPork

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Good to hear unvarnished feedback! I’m interested to know what you tried that leads you to believe it won’t come back and that it’s not steel grain.
I stand corrected. Finally got to examine a kasumi (un etched) version of the Tetsujin, and can see the steel grain. So, you're right, the grain in my metal flow is still there, somewhere.
 
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I stand corrected. Finally got to examine a kasumi (un etched) version of the Tetsujin, and can see the steel grain. So, you're right, the grain in my metal flow is still there, somewhere.
The etch on these always seemed fairly deep to me - so not surprised the banding on yours is shy. I have a hunch that they select the ones with the most apparent banding after initial grinding and then use those for the metal flow line and the others for kasumi.
 

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Seems like Tetsujin Hamono does sell Kasumi lines directly, found some at Tosho and cktg
https://www. replace with you know what .com/tebl2kagy24.html
 

DrD23

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Seems like Tetsujin Hamono does sell Kasumi lines directly, found some at Tosho and cktg
https://www. replace with you know what .com/tebl2kagy24.html
may be the handle, but they are asking more for that than the Konosuke variant 🤔
 
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Can someone explain to me the difference between the Tetsujin Hamono line vs the Konosuke Tetsujin.

Do the ones made for Konosuke have the same specs?

Also where does the metal flow play into this? Just a nicer line where the core steel is (sorry I don’t know the actual term) and the finish?
 
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