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How do you like that debado 250? Thats the wider one yeah? Green i think? I saw it in NYC at MTC kitchen. Almost picked it up for the purpose of thinning.
 
I'm color blind as hell but it looks kind of grey to me. But yeah it's extra wide and extra long. I like it a lot for thinning. For years I just used a Glass 500. Then I moved to a King 320. Then I started using a Crystolon coarse oil stone. And lately I've been using the Debado. So that's what I have to compare it to.
The feedback and feel is more similar to the Crystolon coarse than the King or Glass. It also cuts a similar speed and leaves a similar scratch pattern. It dishes way faster than Crystolon, sightly faster than the King 320. Although that's not really a negative. It doesn't load up and glaze like the King or get rounded abrasive like the Crystolon. This means that like the Glass stone, it doesn't need to be reconditioned. Which I feel like I'm constantly doing to the King and Crystolon to keep them cutting. So I'll take a little flattening every once in awhile as a sacrifice. I bought it mainly because I got a deal I couldn't pass up. But I think I like it enough that I would pay full price for it. It's a lot of real estate and a lot of stone.
 
Good to know. Might check it out. When I saw it I loved the fact that it had that extra surface area. I’ve noticed most coarse suehiro stones dish similarly. My cerax 320 is the same. Dishes pretty easily. I’ve been really curious about the gesshin 320. Maybe that or the debado. My 270 western beater needs some thinning.
 
Robert Lavacca said:
Good to know. Might check it out. When I saw it I loved the fact that it had that extra surface area. I’ve noticed most coarse suehiro stones dish similarly. My cerax 320 is the same. Dishes pretty easily. I’ve been really curious about the gesshin 320. Maybe that or the debado. My 270 western beater needs some thinning.
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That’s the trade off for cerax, great feedback and holds water well but will wear kinda fast depending on what your comparing it to.
 
@stringer -

Thank you. These threads are always such a treat for me. The pics. The answers. This content is awesome.

I can see many appreciate your contributions. And I most certainly do as well. Several of your thoughts have influenced and improved my technique and my approach to sharpening. I have developed skills I always wished to attain this past year, mainly thanks to a lot of focused hard work. Posts like these are immensely helpful to focus efforts and understand the process, so to better affect improvements.
 
labor of love said:
That’s the trade off for cerax, great feedback and holds water well but will wear kinda fast depending on what your comparing it to.
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Yeah i’m thinking I need to just get over the dishing, deal with it, flatten it when needed. I do enjoy the feedback. Eventually would like to try something else.
 
Yeah, personally I don’t think it’s too big of a deal. As long as your mindful that cerax needs a flattening from time to time especially after serious thinning sessions.

One of my older cerax 320s got away from me pretty fast. So many dips in the stone it became pretty unusable
 
@stringer
The Kanehide TK has become a favorite of mine, it comes with a convexed and slightly asymmetric grind, a little flatter on the left side, and the edge is a little asymmetric as well, do you try to maintain any of that or do you sharpen it 50:50?
 
dafox said:
@stringer
The Kanehide TK has become a favorite of mine, it comes with a convexed and slightly asymmetric grind, a little flatter on the left side, and the edge is a little asymmetric as well, do you try to maintain any of that or do you sharpen it 50:50?
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I like the factory grind but I usually get rid of the factory microbevel and put one on that's a little more dainty. I maintain the grind in the middle third of the knife. Over time I have to thin and thin and thin the tip third to keep it where I like it through repeated sharpenings. Or at least I did when it was receiving a lot more more use and a lot more damage. I increase the bevel angle/convexity of the heel to make it tougher.

I still use both of the knives above. The old one is a line knife that stays on the station permanently at the cafe where I work. I use the newer one for my prep knife. So far at my new gig I have been maintaining both with in-hand swipes on an American Mutt followed by in-hand swipes on a small coti-belgian combo. My new crew isn't as rough on the line knife as the old crew so I haven't had to fix any major tips or chips which is what usually necessitates the thinning.
 
Those Kanehide TKs are great knives. Your a nice guy to let everyone share it. I had a 210, when they first came out. I used it hard in pro kitchen daily for like a year and then sold it for $75. I believe it was only like $99 or about $100 then. They went up some since then, I believe.
 
stringer said:
I like the factory grind but I usually get rid of the factory microbevel and put one on that's a little more dainty. I maintain the grind in the middle third of the knife. Over time I have to thin and thin and thin the tip third to keep it where I like it through repeated sharpenings. Or at least I did when it was receiving a lot more more use and a lot more damage. I increase the bevel angle/convexity of the heel to make it tougher.

I still use both of the knives above. The old one is a line knife that stays on the station permanently at the cafe where I work. I use the newer one for my prep knife. So far at my new gig I have been maintaining both with in-hand swipes on an American Mutt followed by in-hand swipes on a small coti-belgian combo. My new crew isn't as rough on the line knife as the old crew so I haven't had to fix any major tips or chips which is what usually necessitates the thinning.
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Thanks!
 
Jville said:
Those Kanehide TKs are great knives. Your a nice guy to let everyone share it. I had a 210, when they first came out. I used it hard in pro kitchen daily for like a year and then sold it for $75. I believe it was only like $99 or about $100 then. They went up some since then, I believe.
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I've sharpened away 7-8 mm of this one. I don't know what it's worth but it's worth it to me to have a decent knife when I have to work the station. My cooks just know that it's always magically helluva lot sharper than the NSF white handled ones. The Cktg version has gone up a lot. But the Hitohira affiliates carry more basic ones with similar steel for $75.
 
stringer said:
I've sharpened away 7-8 mm of this one. I don't know what it's worth but it's worth it to me to have a decent knife when I have to work the station. My cooks just know that it's always magically helluva lot sharper than the NSF white handled ones. The Cktg version has gone up a lot. But the Hitohira affiliates carry more basic ones with similar steel for $75.
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Link?
 
stringer said:
I've sharpened away 7-8 mm of this one. I don't know what it's worth but it's worth it to me to have a decent knife when I have to work the station. My cooks just know that it's always magically helluva lot sharper than the NSF white handled ones. The Cktg version has gone up a lot. But the Hitohira affiliates carry more basic ones with similar steel for $75.
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Oh dang, that’s a sweet deal then. Does it actually say Kanehide or us under one of their brand models?
 
A few more years down the road.

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Have you used the PS60 version? Curious if you have an opinion on the steels, which one is tougher, better edge retention, easier to sharpen, etc. I've been debating getting one of these for a long time but partly can't decide which version.
 
ehhh said:
Have you used the PS60 version? Curious if you have an opinion on the steels, which one is tougher, better edge retention, easier to sharpen, etc. I've been debating getting one of these for a long time but partly can't decide which version.
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No I haven't had a ps60. I have had a couple of the semi-stainless gyutos and a couple of the bessaku butcher tools. Hankotsu, honesuki, that kind of thing. I like them both. Both very easy to sharpen. Edge retention is solid. I would imagine the ps60 would be the same just stainless. Very similar to aeb-l I think. Kanehide are just good professional level factory knives. What you see is what you get. No nonsense. Tough.
 
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