(Powdered) knife suggestions?

[inferno]

if you have a certain way you want the knife done tell him how. he is a custom maker. he will make whatever you pay him to.
or maybe you just tell him the dimensions and he does whatever he thinks is best for this steel?

up to you.

i would go with what the maker themself thinks is the best. you can always adjust this afterwards on stones. if you want to have the same possibility then i suggest you get a 2mm higher blade height because material/height will disappear when you start grinding away. but they you will get exactly what you want. amirite?

 

[Barmoley]

I've never handled the Taka Uchi, but got word that the handle is essentially the same small size as the Taka red Migaki, which I have handled (and Hana, which had good volume). True or no? If so, that's not for my hands that can palm a basketball.

So then it's Andrei Markin M390 with his Euro-hilt that he says can be made more voluminous. Will ask for 210 x ~48 x ~2.25mm blade. I'm kinda ignorant of the grind types - what should I ask for? Is there a happy medium between thickness, surface finish, and grind for food release? A symmetrical convex like the Takamuras? And what surface finish that will hold up over years or that I can redo if it gets scratched up? Or leave it up to Andrei to do what he's best at?

I've returned to scrubbing carrots with a stiff brush for a rustic presentation, plus it's quick.

Since this will be mono out of m390 it shouldn't scratch that easily, but it will anyway mostly from sharpening. It is stainless so scratches will not be covered by patina. Ask Andrei what he would recommend for longevity, but don't go crazy with polished finish since it is hard to do with this steel and you'll have a hard time refinishing also the more polished the more you will see fine scratches. With grind tell Andrei how you want the knife to perform and he will suggest options, he knows his stuff and unless you really know what you want I wouldn't micro manage him. Tell him the way you cut, the balance and stiffness that you like and if food release or ease of going through food is more important to you. Like @inferno suggested I would also recommend a taller heel in your case because of the size of you hands mostly and because you keep knives forever.

 

[mise_en_place]

I think I'm late to this party but I've really been impressed with @HSC /// Knives treatment on Zwear.

Killer steel that seems to be reactive to only warm meat. Doesn't flinch in the face of onions. Edge retention has also been impressive. Harbeer's also a super cool guy to work with. Easy going and seems committed to customer satisfaction.

 

[HSC /// Knives]

@ralpheburns a little discussion on Z Wear PM - https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/threads/z-wear-discussion.44352/

 

[tim37]

I am a knife maker who makes most kitchen knives of Nitro V at Rc 63. I make skinners, filet, and backpacking knives of either M390 or S35VN at Rc 61. I use the EdgePro Pro with diamond stones to sharpen all the knives I make. Typically sharpen to about .005 at the edge and then put on a 12*/side edge. Then I give each side 2 or 3 strokes at 14* to remove any burr or wire edge.

 

[ralpheburns]

Hey KKF -

I wanna say thanks for the guiding info to a newbie who is blissfully ignorant!

So many options... could go crazy trying them! Some of you are? Methinks to go with M390 this time, and okay with Andrei Markin, and will see how his heat treat compares to my (probably lower-tempered) folding ZDP-189's that never chip. And I've been enjoying the EdgePro Pro except for the setup & breakdown fuss. I put painter's tape over the blade sides to keep sharpening grit from scratching.

I'm re-reading thru this thread just before finalizing an order. Something that stands out is 240 vs. 210.... I figured 210 because what I own now is one 200 and one 100 petty (soft German stainless, truth be told). I've been totally and completely happy with the size, so figure do the same for the next set? But as Lucas points out... most of you gravitate to 240... and 240's naturally have larger handles and heel clearance. So I'm rethinking the 210 vs 240 choice. Hmmph.

 

[mise_en_place]

If you have a big cutting board 240s are great.

I was surprised by how much I enjoyed using 210mm gyutos and now 210-225mm is my preferred edge length. 210mm are also more useful in professional settings when space is scarce. Of course, ymmv.

 

[Qapla']

If you're absolutely split between a 210mm and a 240mm, then perhaps you'd go for 225mm?

 

[ralpheburns]

Evolving my technique and thoughts - ok to get Wa handled! Now aiming for a Sukenari ZDP-189 Damascus 210; waiting for replenished stock at CKTG because they install resin-stabilized handles.

 

[Barmoley]

Resin stabilized handles can be heavy and slippery when wet. Could screw up the balance especially on the 210. I don't know how their handles are, but just something to think about.

 

[ralpheburns]

Ahh... something to consider! These: https://www.**************.com/bogoakcustoms.html

 

[ralpheburns]

Hello all -

I did get a couple of knives to try. I've had them a little over one month.
(1) Sukenari ZDP-189 Damascus "210" (description off)
(2) Shiro Kamo R2 Damascus 120

One is too short, the other too long. Ah, my mistakes! Also, notice how I started out looking at western-handled and am now happier with Wa. Turns out that with pinch-grip the Wa fill my hand very well.

I liked the all-stabilized burl handle on the Sukenari enough to buy it even though it was even shorter than the labelled name, coming in at 203mm. After handling the Sukenari using pinch-grip consistently, I could appreciate a 240mm. If y'all see a similar 240mm one, then let me know? I do prefer the all-stabilized burl handle without a bone ferrule. Or I could get blade and handle separately. The ZDP-189 did tarnish quickly, and I've just let it.

I do appreciate how the Sukenari blade handles and it's a joy to use. I've sharpen these on the EdgePro set at 14-degrees (includes base blade angle in that), with 6000 polish tape (= 1 micron, about 30,000 Japanese grit).

The Sukenari is a hard act to follow for the Shiro Kamo R2 120. On it's own it's a good knife, and I went for it as it also came with a stabilized handle. First, I would do better with shorter in both length and width for hand work. The matte black etch seems to cut just a little less freely than the Sukenari, and perhaps there's something about the grind. Only perhaps; these observations are subtle.

Anywhews, if I find a 240mm Sukenari ZDP-189 with a similar handle, then I'd spring for it.
And if I found a 100mm powdered petty then maybe that also.
Since I have an affinity for handles, perhaps I should look at re-handling on my own. I see that the Sukenari one is epoxy-bonded.

One last thing... I'm using the finest 6000 polish tape from Edge Pro... but their ceramic hone is 1200-grit (haven't used it on these J knives). Might you suggest a finer-grit hone for touch-up?

 

[ralpheburns]

While we're at it, I'm shopping for a few more knives. These will be specifically for the camper van I'm building. Because it's mobile, I'll be cutting cubbies for each plate and utensil so they don't rattle when on the move. Check out my layout in (glacial) progress and inspiration samples for utensil and dish storage. I'm leaning toward picking an assorted set for the camper, and cut storage spots for them so the edges and fingers don't get beat traveling. Tho if I'm clever, the storage spots will accept different knives. I'm still a powdered steel fan, tho for the van maybe slightly softer R2 is more durable??? Also, the van galley will be teeny, and here's where the shorter knives will be a good fit, so 8" should be long enough. I figure 8" gyuto, 3.5" paring, and a third for the 2nd cook; either longer or shorter. And how about a bread knife vs. just keeping the straight blades sharp???

I'd still get Wa handled, but wondering if western or hybrid for durability. I'll still be pinch-gripping.

I'm kinda looking at the Shun (gasp!) R2 Reserve or Kaji for what looks durable (though there's no shortage of chipped ones on eBay). I've not handled these and something off-putting is the chef has a lot of belly curve, though my girlfriend has a 6" or 7" Shun that I enjoy using and I'll have to observe if it has the same belly next opportunity. The Kaji is a little more hybrid-like, but looks a little funky.

Thoughts? Thanks!

 

[birdsfan]

Shhhhh.....don't tell anyone here, but I have a Shun Kaji. It was my intro into J-knives, before I discovered the forum. It was my daily driver at work for a few months. The edge retention of the SG2 is pretty good, not as good as the Hap40 and SRS15 that I use now, but pretty respectable. In fact the feeling of slight dulling is probably more a function of the grind, thickness behind the edge, rather than the edge itself. I experienced no chippiness that seems so notable on the Ebay sales. The handle is different, but very comfortable to hold, excellent F&F, albeit a little small. I have the 8in model and it handles a little bigger because of the blade height and weight. Balance point is just at my pinch grip. The blade shape is similar to their classic, very western, so it does have a pronounced belly. It is very suited to rock cutting, but for me it had enough of a flat spot to accomodate the slicing that I do. Honestly not a bad blade, but I am sure it will lag behind your Sukenari. I will likely sell it at some point, it sits in my drawer now, because it is far too pretty a blade to endure the environment of a pro kitchen.

Sorry I am late to the thread. I only discovered it doing a search on Sukenari. Your 210 is beautiful by the way. Love the handle!

 

[ralpheburns]

My van build is progressing at a glacial pace, so lots of time to shop around. Thick behind the edge with belly and smaller handle not alluring. Maybe by the time I'm ready I'll have a longer Sukenari for the house kitchen and move the 203 to the van!

 

[birdsfan]

Though I have never used a Sukenari, I am pretty certain that you would be much happier with that than the Shun. You might like the Shun if your other knife was a Henckels.