Project of the day, quarantine edition.

Kitchen Knife Forums

Help Support Kitchen Knife Forums:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Newbflat

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2015
Messages
290
Reaction score
95
Isolation project of the day. I’m doing isolation away from my home kitchen and had to leave most of my knives behind. I did bring a couple of projects and a pile of stones though. So today I grabbed my Hiroshiro 270 and decided to do it right.


When I got this along with a 240 what seems like forever ago, the were a project from the get go. Some of these came sharp and ‘finished’... others like mine were projects. They both weren’t ground all the way out to the edge and couldn’t cut you if you hacked at your arm. I spoke with Koki and there were no knifes left to replace them. He gave me a deal on something else and I made do.


For those that weren’t around when they were available. Koki sourced these from Hiromoto if I remember correctly ‘from a new found un finished batch of knives he had made for chefs in Tokyo in the 80’s’... or something to that effect. They are mono steel white#2 with a avrege at best yo handle slapped on. It’s definitely about the blade with these. The grind is distinctly right hand bias being dead flat on the left (edge down) and nicely convex on the right... or at least should be. They have true distal taper and have the thinnest tips of any knife of the same length I have ever seen, while being more a middle weight for the length. They also have for me what might be the perfect heat treatment. It’s hard but not brittle. Never chips and doesn’t roll unless I do something stupid. I have tipped my two Mazaki’s so many times it’s getting really irritating ... I have never tipped ether of my Hiroshiro’s in 11 years and they have much finer tips.


In my infinite wisdom of the time, I put a bevel on the right and a micro bevel on the left. It worked ok when I got the geometry corrected for steering but was thicker behind the edge that I wanted. I did the same to the 240 but over time whittled away at the bevel and a while ago went all out and thinned it to where it should have been in the first place. My 270 disappeared into storage for 5 years and reappeared recently and is in rotation. But, it still wasn’right and my taste and skills have changes so... today it was its day.


So, 3 or so hours later with a progression of Atoma 140> Beston 400> Bester 1200> Rika 5000> unknown kinda hard Sutra with mud from nagura..... I’m done.
A0906D47-2D6E-4746-9F48-022970131413.jpeg
4E784EEF-EE77-4E76-A7AD-B1F87F2BD4D1.jpeg
2F1995EA-40DD-4067-AFEB-BA81C4D153BD.jpeg


Several blisters and only one slice on the tip of my first finger on my guitar fingering hand I’m done. The hump is gone and nicely faired into the edge. I should have done this when I got it 11? Years ago. But then what should I have worked on during this Shlt show!?_


I was super smart and didn’t take any pictures before I started. But I did after the Atoma and after finished before the final edge. I scrubbed it down with BKF to blend in the newly sharpened area with the rest.


Why did I post this?... I need some satisfaction after slicing my finger and I have been drinking.
 
So, 3 or so hours later with a progression of Atoma 140> Beston 400> Bester 1200> Rika 5000> unknown kinda hard Sutra with mud from nagura..... I’m done.
Several blisters and only one slice on the tip of my first finger on my guitar fingering hand I’m done. The hump is gone and nicely faired into the edge.
Why did I post this?... I need some satisfaction after slicing my finger and I have been drinking.

Have you considered an extra-coarse stone? There are many reasons why I dislike using diamond-plates in place of coarse-grit stones, but one of them is the thing you mentioned--it can brutalize your fingers. (No drinking needed for that to happen.)

A Shapton Pro or Glass 120 (splash) or Nubatama Black 180 (soak) might be of use to you. Or maybe other forumites can also make some recommendations.

Disclosure: I have a Shapton Pro 120.
 
I prefer the pro over the glass for moving a lot of metal. I don’t know why but the 220 glass almost seems better than the 120; and I gave away my 220 pink brick a while ago but I’m not convinced I’ve used a better stone for thinning stainless cladding so at the very least I want to get another one and refresh my memory.
 
Oh I learned my lesson about diamond stones many years ago. On my fist diamond stone my fist hint was all the blood that appeared all of a sudden on the stone. The month to heal was the endless reminder. On the bright side they won’t catch me threw fingerprints. I’m fine with the Atoma and I’m abrasions free. I just managed to touch the tip of the knife on my finger very early in thinning and sliced it kinda deep. I didn’t feel a thing. Got to remember to be carful swinging a 10 inch razor around.
 
I have a pink brick as well but didn’t use it this time. I really need to give it a major flattening and just didn’t feel like it. I dislike the pink brick and the Atoma equally so I just grabbed what was flat. And I don’t have the bad feelings about the Beston 400 that many do. I kinda like it.
 
Fwiw, I’ve found the SG120 to be super useful. I used to use an Atoma, but I think the diamonds just get stripped too fast, and a worn out Atoma works much slower than the 120.
 
late for the party but, what do u guys think about the Glass' durability? I do a ton of thinning where I work and wanted to know if I should get a SG120 over the Kuromaku 120
 
I’ve got one of these in 270, the taper is really impressive! I think Dave Martell did a nice spa treatment on one of these years back.

Re: coarse stones... Shapton pro 120 is way too prone to clogging/glazing for my liking. Fast until it stops cutting—and it seems to do so quickly. Really slows things down having to lap constantly. Though I’ve been having some seeming success thinning on a San mai stainless knife lately. For simple carbons, king deluxe 300 is pretty nice. Not the fastest, but it’s cheap, splash and go, and very slow to dish. Not nearly as effective on stainless, though it can get the job done.

I’d like to try one of the pink bricks for heavy lifting, maybe use my shapton pro 120 as a lapping stone to conserve my atomas.
 
I’ve got one of these in 270, the taper is really impressive! I think Dave Martell did a nice spa treatment on one of these years back.

Re: coarse stones... Shapton pro 120 is way too prone to clogging/glazing for my liking. Fast until it stops cutting—and it seems to do so quickly. Really slows things down having to lap constantly. Though I’ve been having some seeming success thinning on a San mai stainless knife lately. For simple carbons, king deluxe 300 is pretty nice. Not the fastest, but it’s cheap, splash and go, and very slow to dish. Not nearly as effective on stainless, though it can get the job done.

I’d like to try one of the pink bricks for heavy lifting, maybe use my shapton pro 120 as a lapping stone to conserve my atomas.
Yes, definitely works longer/better on soft stainless cladding.
 
This is Samit's Hiromoto "White Steel" gyuto (limited time produced knife from years ago) with it's new handle. The factory handle and bolster on these knives is pitiful in stock form. I began by tearing off the scales and giant ass bird's eye pins, cleaned up the tang (removed rust and pitting), installed new spalted two-toned maple (from Burl Source) along with black G10 liners & nickel silver pins, then shaped and rounded the sharp edges off of the bolster to make for a better feel in the hand, then it was spine & choil rounding, and finally sharpening. Aside from the patina the owner may not recognize this one. :)

View attachment 15467

View attachment 15468

View attachment 15469

View attachment 15470

View attachment 15471

View attachment 15472

View attachment 15473

View attachment 15474

View attachment 15475

View attachment 15476

View attachment 15477
This is a special run Hiromoto White (#2) Steel gyuto from JapaneseChefsKnife.com

These are similar in construction to the Hiromoto AS series except these are significantly thicker, the handle/bolster is more blockier, and bird's eye style rivets are used to hold the scales on.

The owner asked me to thin the blade, etch if I thought it would look OK, and to round the bolster & handle. I did all that as well as rounded the spine & choil and sharpened it up.

I found that most of the blade's thickness came from a lot of cladding on the left side, something I've never seen before.

The results from the etching were interesting, not super exciting like seen on some AS gyutos, yet different and still nice to look at.

I had real bad conditions for lighting today so the pictures are pretty dark, unfocused, and kinda lousy, hopefully you can see what was done....


BEFORE
P1010001_zps8bfac905.jpg


AFTER
P1010010_zps239409e3.jpg





BEFORE
P1010004_zpsc07d95ed.jpg


AFTER
P1010013_zps3da16284.jpg





BEFORE
P1010006_zps265a84b1.jpg


AFTER
P1010016_zpsc97f63d6.jpg
Today I bring you a rare older knife that belongs to my friend Ryan who's been waiting for a very long time to get this re-handled. The knife is a Hiromoto (solid) White #1 (?) that was made for a short run way back in the early KF days after being found by the maker after many years of them being long forgotten about.

These knives came with an extremely blocky metal bolster and pakkawood handle with poor fit 'n finish. A lot of these knives were rehandled right away as a result and this particular one was no exception.

The original handle maker had removed the bolster (which was only tacked on) and obviously had issues with getting the blade cleaned up where the bolster had sat so the handle was installed far up onto the blade yet there was still some pretty decent grind marks present in the blade. He also used the full (and very poorly shaped/ground) tang which turned out to be a mistake as the scales pulled away from it over time.

After talking with Ryan about all this we decided to go with a hidden tang. This would allow the handle to be mounted back in a more traditional position and would also remove the misshapen tang from the equation completely. I took the liberty, while the handle was off, to refinish the blade, rounding the spine and choil while I was at it.

Ryan likes weird stuff so he went with a green dyed box elder burl and highly streaked honey horn for the ferrule.

I'm hoping that Ryan likes the new configuration because he's not one to hold back his opinions to me. LOL :D

What do you folks think of it?

View attachment 32608

View attachment 32609

View attachment 32610

View attachment 32611

View attachment 32612

Last one is a san mai, but looks to have the same blocky handle with birdseye rivets. makes me want to clean mine up. I bet you could shave some serious weight/shift the balance forward if you have it some coke bottle contouring and shaped the tang a bit.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top