- Jul 31, 2019
- Reaction score
- United States
The Ku Morihei is Blue2 IIRC. The non-Ku version is White1.No. Confirmed by TF directly. Morihei Hisamoto Ku is just soft iron cladding in lieu of the SS. Same core steel and HT. In other words the Ku is not prelaminated bar stock but is forge welded in-house by TF. The final blade aesthetic is 'nashiji' though as opposed to the semi-polished/hammered Maboroshi
Any reason you want the finger notch? In my experience it provides little to no functional benefits and merely reduces the length of useable cutting edge effectively rendering a 210 gyuto to a 195-200. Go to the shop and pick out a special local sale-only version. It will be a neat souvenir, plus you may get a chance to say hi to TF IV himself and the shop dog.I’m thinking of picking up a TF Maboroshi when I’m in Tokyo year end. The options are either from TF direct or via Tsubaya. Maybe Morihei if they have any.
Thing is, I’m keen on the finger rest at the choil and a Wa handle and it does appear that the OEM ones via Tsubaya for instance don’t have it - at least that’s what it appears to be on their website. Anyone familiar with the variations of TF available at either Tsubaya or Morihei?
What I mean is that when you choke up in a 2 finger pinch grip the heel is pushed further back when the blade has the notch. Edge length with and without the finger notch is the same.The TF notch doesn't make the effective length any shorter unless you choose to use it that way.
It provides a place for your middle finger so that you can choke up on the blade even more than without it.
One can still use a regular pinch grip, on the emoto, without using the notch.
I don't see any negative.
Yes, red handles and urushi are the typical shop-only offerings. Then there are those little one-off specials that have been gathering dust for years, waiting to be discovered. I think I could spend hours in the shop and workshop area out back.
You miss my point.What I mean is that when you choke up in a 2 finger pinch grip the heel is pushed further back when the blade has the notch. Edge length with and without the finger notch is the same.
Yes, that is true. I usually choke up with middle finger as far as the blade allows, so it all depends how you address the knife.You miss my point.
With the notch , you can still pinch grip in the same place as if the knife didn't have a notch.
The notch doesn't impact the regular pinch grip except that your middle finger isn't rubbing against the choil.
You don't have to choke up. It's an option.
The notch ALSO allows you to choke up, in addition to the regular pinch grip.
Therefore one can pinch grip in two places instead of just one.
You get more choices..win win.
Gyutos are traditonally western handled in Japan because they are "western knives" (ryo).I think one reason to want the TF notch is its iconic to TF knives. If I get the chance to go to Japan, I will definitely make a trip to buy a TF in person.
Exactly. Roll the edge on a flat surface and look for holes. Thats easy. Then angle the edge of the knife against a light source and look for unusual light reflections. This would indicate if there are overgrinds further up the blade road that may not be evident until you sharpen (if you're a home user I don't think these should concern you too much).@Corradobrit1 I figured if they let me have access to something flat to lay the knife on, I may have a chance of spotting any issues. But what should I keep a look out for? From what I read here, it’s the grind issues that have become legendary. Besides that handle install as well if memory serves me well.
I have to agree with your experience. I've been getting to know my 240 gyuto over the past few days and it takes the Maboroshi to a new level. I love the reactive iron cladding. Never thought I would say that but its so much more aesthetically pleasing compared to the SS. It takes a patina like I've not seen before with other san-mai, although thats probably not saying much as I've only used a Konosuke Fujiyama FM and Mazaki. I'm getting light irridescent blues and oranges both in the core steel and cladding. No splotchy blacks and grays. Hope you're finding your tip as good as mine.I am very happy with it so far. Test cut an onion and a big carrot with it. It cuts like dream. I can tell the grind is a lot better than the Maboroshi that i got. Sharpness is just as good as the Maboroshi. can't wait to take it to work and put it through the pace.
Thanks for the pointers.Exactly. Roll the edge on a flat surface and look for holes. Thats easy. Then angle the edge of the knife against a light source and look for unusual light reflections. This would indicate if there are overgrinds further up the blade road that may not be evident until you sharpen (if you're a home user I don't think these should concern you too much).
I like thinner grinds behind the edge so get them weighed and check how thin they are. The agricultural ones are easy to spot.
Check spines and choils for sharp edges. If you find the perfect knife but there is a sharp area ask if they will ease that area in the workshop outback. They have grinding equipment there so shouldn't be an imposition.
Alternatively get a Morihei Hisamoto W#1 (aka the pimped out TF Maboroshi).......