Refinishing a Ryusen Blazen

Discussion in 'Sharpening Station' started by Nemo, May 14, 2019.

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  1. May 14, 2019 #1

    Nemo

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    I did a minor thinning as part of a sharpening on a Ryusen Blazen with a Chosera 1k (so maybe JIS 1500?).

    I was giong to refinish it with sandpaper. I was hoping that I was pretty close with the Cho 1k so that I wouldn't need to many grits in my sandpaper progression. For those that have done this with a Blazen, approximately what grit is the finish on a Blazen?
     
  2. May 16, 2019 #2

    Nemo

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    Anyone?

    Gonna have a go at it this weekend. Think I'll start at P1500 and see how it goes.
     
  3. May 16, 2019 #3

    TB_London

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    What’s the intended finish? If you’re going for satin I’d start with 320 then go to 400 and then finish on 600.

    1500 to start will be slow and is going to be pushing towards mirror finish

    Backing the paper with tape helps stop it tearing and so makes it last longer
     
  4. May 16, 2019 #4

    Benuser

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    Let us know, please. Dave once said to start with the same grit as the one that caused the scratches, so P1500 should work. Intuitively I would have started a bit coarser.
     
  5. May 16, 2019 #5

    Migraine

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    Are sandpaper and stone grits equivalent?
     
  6. May 16, 2019 #6

    Benuser

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    No, see a grit chart. P1500 and Chosera 1k are both 11 micron.
     
  7. May 16, 2019 #7

    Nemo

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    I wanted to get pretty lose to the original finish, which I think is more of a semi mirror than a satin, but the whole point of this thread was to ask people who have actually done it what is the best grit paper to finish on for this particular knife.
     
  8. May 16, 2019 #8

    Nemo

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    Maybe P1200? Or P1000?
     
  9. May 16, 2019 #9

    Smashmasta

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    Depending on the current condition of the finish, start coarser than you think, like 600-800 then progress up. Sandpapering by hand is slow and it pays to start low, otherwise you'll just end up polishing the current scratches. The "right" grit is going to be a bit subjective as you're going for a finish that you like, and the differences in finish between small jumps like 1000, 1200, 1500, etc is not very profound. So as long as you don't too big of jumps you'll be able to assess every grit step if the finish is satisfactory without having gone too high because you jumped to high. Make sense?
     
  10. May 16, 2019 #10

    labor of love

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    I’ll likely be doing some thinning on my blazen soon as well. My takamura already has some sharpening blemishes due to me attempting low angle sharpening and getting messy with it.
    Look forward to hearing what you do for restoring the finish.
     
  11. May 16, 2019 #11

    Nemo

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    The underlying finish is pretty much untouched so i don't think I need to go lower to get any scratches other than the thinning marks out.

    Having refinished quite a few blades, I can agree that starting too high is slow and can be frustrating.

    I guess what I am trying to ask is that it's not so much how to achieve "the finish that I want" but I'm trying to blend the thinning bevel into the original (largely untouched) finish. So what I am really asking is the ballpark final finish for a stock Blazen.
     
  12. May 16, 2019 #12

    Nemo

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    I'll let you know how it goes.
     
  13. May 16, 2019 #13

    TB_London

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    I’d imagine stock will be off a scotchbrite surface conditioning belt or mop. You can get them in hand pads, and are the easiest way to blend into factory finishes
     
  14. May 16, 2019 #14

    Nemo

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    Blazen has a fairly fine finish. I wonder whether I can achieve this with a scotchbrite pad.

    Is there anyone who has actually refinished a Blazen?
     
  15. May 17, 2019 #15

    JBroida

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    Yeah... and it’s not quite scotchbrite like.
     
  16. May 17, 2019 #16

    HRC_64

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    I think one needs to be careful in assuming modern factory finishes are single stage/process/grit
    unfortunately I don't have any specific insight into Ryusen finish...maybe ping James or Jon via PM?
     
  17. May 17, 2019 #17

    JBroida

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    It’s a mix of buffers and belts... some of which are hard to find equivalents for outside of japan
     
  18. May 17, 2019 #18

    labor of love

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    @Nemo just experiment until it looks cool. Then tell me what worked best.
     
  19. May 17, 2019 #19

    Dave Martell

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    Phil, I think you'll find that the factory scratch pattern to run vertical (spine to edge) to no matter what you use you're going to have a mess to clean up. Buy some coarse paper just in case I'm right.
     
  20. May 17, 2019 #20

    Nemo

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    Thanks Dave. That makes sense. I have paper down to 80 grit on hand.
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2019
  21. May 17, 2019 #21

    Nemo

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    Thanks for the info Jon. Looks like I might have to wing it a bit.
     
  22. May 17, 2019 #22

    Nemo

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    Good point.
     
  23. May 17, 2019 #23

    krx927

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    I was refinishing my Blazen Honesuki after thinning. That was already some time ago so I so not remember exactly with which grit sandpaper I started. I think it was 180. Then I went progressively finer up to 1500. If I remember correctly the finish was quite similar to the original.

    But I would not worry too much about where you should stop. You will see it anyway. Just have handy finer sandpapers.
     
  24. May 17, 2019 #24

    Nemo

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    Thanks. This is helpful.
     
  25. May 18, 2019 #25

    inferno

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    I refinished a mac pro with 240-1500 fepa p. the p1500 appeared "almost mirror", if you dont have anything actually mirror polished near by that is. then its not. a fepa p1500 paper is not equivalent to jis1500!

    I think most factory finishes is about similar to what you would get with a p600 or p800 fepa p paper yourself.

    satin finsih p600
    mirror p1500

    stop by at 240/400 for the 600.
    and 240/600/800 (or 1k) for the 1500.

    this is a fast way to get there.
    it will not benefit you in any way to simply go to 1500 straight away. it will just take you about 10 times longer than having the intermediates. ask me how i know.

    for paper i suggest getting 3m paper. their papers last about twice as long as the nearest competitor. and is worth the premium if any.
    Mirka also makes good paper.

    I also use much of würth paper (we have contracts with them) a4 size. and the 120p paper is good, also the 240 is ok. but the higher grits are not as good as 3m. to be honest the low grit ones and the high grit ones are not as good as 3m either. quite far from it.

    I can tell you one thing. i used to work in a paint shop, sanding sh1t 8h a day for many years. and nothing i mean nothing lasted as long as 3m. tried every other major and minor brand. and not only that. when a mirka paper lets say a p180 was finished you throw it away. but a 3m 180 you could use one round more as a 240! so they have another actual life. after done at 180. and even at 180 they lasted about twice as long.

    buy once cry once.
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2019
  26. May 18, 2019 #26

    Nemo

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    @inferno, are you saying that refinishing after Chosera 1k requires a progression starting at P240?

    I do agree that the 3m paper is the most durable that I have used.
     
  27. May 18, 2019 #27

    Benuser

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    Even compared to the Robert Bosch Metall?
     
  28. May 18, 2019 #28

    Nemo

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    No. I don't think it's easily available where I live. But l will keep an eye out for it.
     
  29. May 18, 2019 #29

    inferno

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    no only if starting from 0.

    you can probably jump in at p1200 or 1500 straight away.

    I have noticed that a 1500 paper feel much finer than a 1200, and also much slower.

    you can also experiment with using them dry or wet for different results.
     
  30. May 18, 2019 #30

    Nemo

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    Ok,

    Refinished it today.

    Tried P1200 but was a bit too coarse to my eye. Couldn't find any P1500. P2000 gave a reasonable finish but P2500 was even closer.

    Needed to use light pressure at the end of each grit or I got areas of uneven polish.
     

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