Research for future purchase - Wide bevel

[milkbaby]

After reading All the great responses it sounds like it will be a bit daunting to thin a wide bevel that is not completely straight. Or alternatively thin it to straight bevel which would affect the performance.

It won't be any worse than thinning a non-wide bevel. In fact, in many cases it will be easier to thin.

As previously mentioned, the shinogi gives you a visual guide especially if you desire to thin the bevel flat.

 

[Midsummer]

In addtion to wedgeing,
they can steer and have awkwardness moving thru pruduct in other ways, depending on the product height
vs the bevel height.

You can have have a knife that cuts like it has a bit of split
personality.

I am lost. Unfortunately I was ruined by my study of physics. I should have studied the personality disorders of inanimate objects.

In other words, a flat-grind has never been the platonic ideal of this grind...

I am quite sure Plato was not a smith; perhaps Socrates was the smith and Plato just wrote about it?

 

[Nemo]

It won't be any worse than thinning a non-wide bevel. In fact, in many cases it will be easier to thin.

As previously mentioned, the shinogi gives you a visual guide especially if you desire to thin the bevel flat.

And it is still easier if you want to maintain a convex bevel (this message obviously for the OP rather than Milkbaby, who understands a lot more about knife grinds than I do). I personally prefer the performance of the convex bevelled knives.

OP, watch the JKI vids on single bevel sharpening.

The important thing to remember is that the steel is removed where you put the pressure on the knife.

So you start with pressure just below the shinogi line. Periodically confirm that you are removing steel just below and at the shinogi (flip the knife over and look). You may scratch some steel on the flat. This is a pretty easy cosmetic fix with a bit of appropriate grit wet and dry (600-800 is about right for many kasumi finishes) or a rust eraser.

Then you move to putting pressure just above the edge. Just follow the angle of the bevel just above the edge. Often you are removing steel from the edge to around the cladding line in this step (maybe 5ish mm or 1/4" above the edge). You can grind to a zero grind (i.e.: when you get a burr) or stop just short. I usually raise a burr, especially if I will finish with a microbevel.

Then you grind in between these two zones by "wobbling" the knife a little as you grind with pressure in between the edge and the shinogi. This thins the convex part of the wide bevel.

I find that for most knives, a wide bevel polised to 2-4k gives the best food release.

You can then put a micro bevel (30-45 degrees, depending on the knife and how it is being used) on a zero grind or you could cut in new edge bevels (at 10-15 dps, again depending on the knife and how it is being used). I find most of these knives respond best to a micro bevel, but a one or two have responded better to a new edge bevel.

To refresh the edge, follow the microbevel and deburr the backside at the zero grind angle (the same angle that you thinned the edge at in step 2).

 

[HRC_64]

I personally prefer the performance of the convex bevelled knives.

+1

 

[Dhoff]

Thank you both! I learned a Lot from this thread

 

[Nemo]

Thank you both! I learned a Lot from this thread

A pleasure. It's why we are here.

 

[inferno]

Are single bevels out of the question?
these are quite cool I think.

blue 2, the best steel in the entire universe https://japanesechefsknife.com/coll...an-hon-kasumi-series-blue-steel-no-2-wa-gyuto
gin3, japanese 19c27 https://japanesechefsknife.com/coll...uto-single-bevel-edge-240mm-and-270mm-2-sizes

 

[Dhoff]

Are single bevels out of the question?
these are quite cool I think.

blue 2, the best steel in the entire universe https://japanesechefsknife.com/coll...an-hon-kasumi-series-blue-steel-no-2-wa-gyuto
gin3, japanese 19c27 https://japanesechefsknife.com/coll...uto-single-bevel-edge-240mm-and-270mm-2-sizes

Not out of the question but afraid it will steer a lot. My knife skills are not good

 

[Cyrilix]

Are single bevels out of the question?
these are quite cool I think.

blue 2, the best steel in the entire universe https://japanesechefsknife.com/coll...an-hon-kasumi-series-blue-steel-no-2-wa-gyuto
gin3, japanese 19c27 https://japanesechefsknife.com/coll...uto-single-bevel-edge-240mm-and-270mm-2-sizes

I somehow get the feeling, just like you, that blue #2 has among the best balance of durability, edge retention, and sharpenability, and edge taking ability among all of the steels out there.

 

[CoteRotie]

I like blue #2 as well, I think it's easy to sharpen as sharp as you could possibly want it for cutting food, and it has better edge retention than white. I even like blue #1. Aogami super is a bit harder to sharpen.

 

[thebradleycrew]

--- 4. Konosuke Fujiyama. You would have to track down the older version, as the newer has a more convex shape without the wide bevel. This may take some time. I have yet to find one. I am very happy with the FM series, which you can find a bit more regularly, but I don't know that it will meet your aesthetic desire. Not wide bevel. However, as an aside, Yoshikazu Tanaka, as the previous person mentioned, is never a bad idea. ---

There are wide bevel Fujiyama clones out there like Tananka Kyuzo fro hitohira (I have a 210 that's a stunning good knife). Also Tsubaya from the same shop (people raved about these, but I haven't tried one). Both are very beautiful wide bevel knives.

+1 to the Kyuzo from Hitohira. I have a 240 wide bevel and it is very reminiscent of the older wide bevel Kono's. It's an incredible knife, one of my favorites, and can be had for half of your budget.