Rubber vs endgrain cutting board any suggestions?

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Daizone

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So I was originally looking into getting a large endgrain maple board but recently heard about rubber boards like asahi. What would you recommend for an overall all around cutting board. Looking to spend $200-400 range. Any pros and cons between the two besides the sound of chopping on a wood board?
 
I have both ... not a whole lot of "better / worse" except the obvious of cleaning with proper wet chemistry goes to the "non-wood" boards.

I think the edges benefit from Hi-Soft but one has to be care full if you 'scrape food' which (IMO) you shouldn't. Big fan of Korin and their Hi-Soft (not sure I would term it rubber though) - bonus is they have sales (one now that I didn't get BTW).

http://www.korin.com/sushi_bar/Cutting-Boards_4

I'm sure other will comment but I have been very, very happy with the Hi-Softs ... but still use my end grain as it is just '2 Perty' to get rid of ... $0.02 (none of it is cheap ....)TjA
 
I've both a nice Boardsmith and a couple of Sani-Tuff boards. I prefer cutting on the Sani-Tuff - it's lighter, easier to move, easier to clean. But it's also ugly as sin. For kitchen "furniture" you can't beat a nice wooden board. It too works very well, looks very nice, just takes 3 people to move it to the sink:whistling:
 
+1
daveb said:
I've both a nece Boardsmith and a couple of Sani-Tuff boards. I prefer cutting on the Sani-Tuff - it's lighter, easier to move, easier to clean But it's also ugly as sin. For kitchen "furniture" you can't beat a nice wooden board. It too works very well, looks very nice, just takes 3 people to move it to the sink:whistling:
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I wanted a wood board but the SO was agin' it, didn't fit her fashion sense. Settled for one of those 14x17" grainy black plastic speckled with silver jobs, and a wood cheese board to do the actual cutting. Works great actually, easy as heck to move/clean/stow. I do consider replacing the CB with like a 10x6 or so highsoft.
 
I have numerous edge grain, face grain and end grain boards. Nice to display. for cutting, I got a 36" x 16 x 1/2" piece of HDPE for less than $20. cut 3 12" pieces, when too scratched up, use the next. a big piece last about 18 months.
 
I believe you can iron smooth any PE, low deform/melt point. I have heard claim even nylon irons smooth, but I'd have to see that myself as it's melting point is over 600F.
 
I've never heard some one favor wood because it sounds better when you cut. There are valid reasons for synthetic or wood but either way you don't need to spend $200+ on a board. $100 is a reasonable budget for a quality wood board unless you want a show piece. Personally I'd rather stick myself in the eye than use rubber, Sani-safe, Sani-tuff...Sani-anything. Those boards are Sloooooooow to cut on. They scratch and hold just as much bacteria as any other cutting board. You still have to sanitize and clean them. After years of being forced to use those it's wood only for me. Both Boos and Michigan Maple Block have been making boards since the 1880's. Just took a peek on overstock and they still carry the MMB boards. The MMB boards I have are both nearly 15 years old now and still in great shape. The only down side I see to some Maple boards is thickness. Mine are 3" thick and that can be a bit much on a standard height counter top depending on your height.

Dave
 
rick alen said:
I believe you can iron smooth any PE, low deform/melt point. I have heard claim even nylon irons smooth, but I'd have to see that myself as it's melting point is over 600F.
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when too scratched to use, board goes to shop where it is used as place to dry small items(most finishes or glue won't stick) or sliced up to be drawer guides. a lucky few get cut smaller and get used to cut bait and clean small fish.
to the original question, spend $50 or less on a board or 3 and use balance to get a new knife.
 
Althou Sani-Tuff can scratch, they can also be buffed with sand paper from time to time.

The main difference is that a knife will not slide on a Sani Tuff like it does with wood. It is a similar difference with slidding on ice version a friction stop on a baskett ball or tennis court.

I am a big fan of having a Sani Tuff board as a secondary board when you need extra space. The smaller versions also make great travel boards.
 
I use endgrain for most of the cutting. I reserve my plastic board for protein and I have an older edgegrain for fish.
 
Not endgrain - but I like Hinoki wooden boards. Difficult to find in larger sizes though. Generally lighter than other wooden boards and the wood is said to have its own natural antibacterial qualities
 
It's not end-grain as requested, but I highly recommend tight grained pine, yes, pine as in soft-wood. Often sold as a Pastry Board. Your razor sharp edges will thank you for it and using a pine board forces you to improve knife skills by having a light touch. Unless you like sawdust in your mince, lol.
 
Sanituff boards are great, although as Dave says they're ugly. They're also pretty close to the price of an end-grain board. I'd like to have one around to replace my various poly boards (which I don't care for). And it would be my first choice for a restaurant. My favorite at home is an end-grain maple Boardsmith board. It's beautiful and nearly indestructible (just no cutting bread with a serrated blade). I'm not 100% convinced that the end-grain surface is as gentle as it's reputed to be. I still have to use a delicate touch or my edges suffer. I might get better edge life out of the various soft synthetics. But other than this I love cutting on the wood.
 
They neglect to mention that the glue used to bind the blocks can be harder than the wood. Still beats out on most other materials but it is still building material at the end of the day.
 
Another vote for hi soft. Not only is it easy on the edges, it's easy on the hands and wrists. Another nice thing about it is that it is short. I have a Boardsmith edge grain (not end grain) that's thicker, and it's just enough to be a little high for a cutting surface for my short self. The only down side to the hi soft is that it doesn't have a groove, so any juices or water run all over your work surface.
 
I used my Hi-Soft yesterday on fish and I like it. I also have a Boardsmith Maple end grain block (12x18x2) which I also really like. Based on looks, the maple board is a clear winner. Based on functionality, it is hard to choose a winner, but I think I prefer the Boardsmith because it is elevated about 2 1/2 inches. When skinning a fish filet, I find it convenient to have some elevation between the surface of the board and the countertop. The Hi-Soft requires no oiling. A wooden board cleans easily so long as you keep it conditioned with mineral oil or mineral oil plus beeswax.

If I had to choose between one or the other, I would go with the boardsmith butcher block.
 
I use end grain for most produce. I have a Japanese rubber board for meat. I like it because it goes in the dishwasher.

Don't know what the brand is. I got it from K&S but I think James only ships it to Australia and NZ.
 
naifu said:
If I had to choose between one or the other, I would go with the boardsmith butcher block.
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I agree if it stays put in one location. For traveling hi-soft all the way.
 
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