probable.It’s possible (probable?) you won’t be able to recreate the factory finish
I am a chef and home cook. This knife is staying home with me though. Really feel pissed after what I did yesterday so I would like to fix without having to thin it.
You won't have to thin it. Go at it with sandpaper. It'll be the easiest way to fix it.
Ti do that you really Need to Sand paper a lot lot lot lot lot lotOut of curiosity, can low grit sandpaper (say 220-400) alter the grind of a knife when you're removing scratches?
Ti do that you really Need to Sand paper a lot lot lot lot lot lot
Yep. You can't get rid of scratches. Only replace them with progressively finer scratches.When I heard using sandpaper on a blade it blew my mind, is like covering scratches with scratches.......
No, it works like a 220 grit stone. At least until it wears out, which doesn't take long.I see. So sanding with 220 grit sandpaper isn't the same as running the knife on a 220 grit coarse stone?
I see. So sanding with 220 grit sandpaper isn't the same as running the knife on a 220 grit coarse stone?
Yep. You can't get rid of scratches. Only replace them with progressively finer scratches.
If you want a mirror or semi mirroe polish, you need to be careful to COMPLETELY remove each set of scratches with the next finer paper in your progression. If you just want to imitate the factory finish, you don't need to be super pedantic about this (but do remove the obvious scratches). I also can't get a good read on the original finish from those photos. If I had to guess, I'd say maybe 1200 would look similar.
Which 800 stone did this? If it's a Naniwa, I'd probably start at p1000 or even p1200 sandpaper, as Naniwas are a bit finer.
If I'm refinishing a blade, I will usually dull it a little by VERY GENTLY breadknifing on my finest (dry) stone. Doing it this way makes it easy to resharpen. This prevents you being unable to complete the refinishing because you are in the emergency room.
I use a hard backing on my sandpaper. Having some sort of handle on the hard backing makes it easier too.
EDIT: Which knife is it? If it's carbon or ironclad, you may find that it will look a lot better once patinaed.
Why a hard backing? I have more even results with hard rubber or soft wood. Avoids facetting.Yep. You can't get rid of scratches. Only replace them with progressively finer scratches.
If you want a mirror or semi mirroe polish, you need to be careful to COMPLETELY remove each set of scratches with the next finer paper in your progression. If you just want to imitate the factory finish, you don't need to be super pedantic about this (but do remove the obvious scratches). I also can't get a good read on the original finish from those photos. If I had to guess, I'd say maybe 1200 would look similar.
Which 800 stone did this? If it's a Naniwa, I'd probably start at p1000 or even p1200 sandpaper, as Naniwas are a bit finer.
If I'm refinishing a blade, I will usually dull it a little by VERY GENTLY breadknifing on my finest (dry) stone. Doing it this way makes it easy to resharpen. This prevents you being unable to complete the refinishing because you are in the emergency room.
I use a hard backing on my sandpaper. Having some sort of handle on the hard backing makes it easier too.
EDIT: Which knife is it? If it's carbon or ironclad, you may find that it will look a lot better once patinaed.
Bevel looks anyway to big, i would suggest thin it out to nearly zero up to 3k stones, and after this redo the finish with sandpapers 180 to 600 grit and WD 40, or find someone who can do this with an beltgrinder in a few minutes
Regards
Uwe
Good point. OP, you totally need a belt grinder here.......
I use a (slightly radiused) soft wood (pine) as my "hard backing". Perhaps I should have chosen my words more carefully.Why a hard backing? I have more even results with hard rubber or soft wood. Avoids facetting.
Jesus man, a knife is a tool. Tools get damaged through use; a shite tool gets thrown out, a good one, repaired and from there informs your skill.I went to a blacksmith near my place and he is willing to refinish the knife completely without changing his native geometry but it will cost me 200AUD+ with an horizontal finish rather than vertical, so I will try progressively with sand paper myself or either leave it this way. I will keep looking at the forum for guides (better illustrated) so IF happens that I make that mistake again I will know how to solve it. Thanks everyone for all the informations you have given me.
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