Now now, that's some real fun.
First step: getting it ready
Good old sandpaper. I was preoccupied by a couple of obvious high spots on the wide bevel, especially at the tip. Contrary to my expectations, it was a short and sweet job to grind these away with automotive #180. Also most of the original shinogi I realized was pretty spot on despite the appearances: roughly 15mm from the edge, constant. All in all, 15 minutes and it was over with this.
For good measure, I gave a slight chamfer to the spine with #180, a good smoothing on the choil and finger hole with #1000 as well as smoothing the chamfer of the spine, then went with "cleaning" the handle of some of its easy to address faults. Still with #1000, just really cleaning and polishing: the scales, tang, bolster, welding marks. Any way I turn this however you can see in pictures those faults I cannot address - say ill-drilled rivet holes among others like spots on the tang that will require coarser sandpaper to address. #3000 sanding pad was used to polish the whole thing, blade and handle.
Ok now this was as clean as possible for a roughly 30 minutes go. Very easy to help this knife, and yet the result is worth it times 100 - faults are now very hard to catch from any distance but close inspection, and the pinch now feels adequately smooth too. Of course the bevels were left rough - but they were so righteous underneath a few ill-ground spots that with so little work done they would now be fairly easy to polish to mirror. And I hope they'll be just as smooth and easy to follow on the stones.
I decided I would document each step of this with a choil shot and a weighing of the knife. I want to know how much time with coarse sandpaper and stones amounts to about what kind of metal removal and weight loss. Not scientifically, just really be more aware of a progress I didn't verify so much with the Moritaka. Choil shot just helps to assess progress where any, obviously. Securing thing when you don't have much experience - hey, that's me!
Therefore...
Left: original. Right: actual.
About nothing happened there, as expected. If I let my imagination go wild, the actual choil is just a tad... crisper overall. The obvious difference in height of the shinogi from one side to the other on both choil shots is not something that pervades on the whole length. The bevel at the heel on the cutting side has a smallish spot of overgrind over the shinogi, making the choil shot deceptive. Sanding the consistent part of the bevel brought that spot a bit more into focus at the choil. I just hope I won't "slide" at that spot because of this when thinning and mess up with the tsuchime finish.
The insight from my poor scale says this blade lost 1g (207g originally from the same scale).
Being poor, at its level of precision, there's enough removed to tilt it down. Probably something around 0.25g in reality, from so little removal actually done. One could logically assert that the high spots I removed at both sides of the tip were a consistent enough amount of steel that I actually removed, still within error margin, about 0.75g - 1.5g. I'm not experienced enough to be able to assess this. I'd like a better scale, for sure.
Follow up soon... for me, right now, jumping on the stones in about 5 minutes.
To be continued...
Ah yes... was forgetting the prep for following on the stones:
First step: getting it ready
Good old sandpaper. I was preoccupied by a couple of obvious high spots on the wide bevel, especially at the tip. Contrary to my expectations, it was a short and sweet job to grind these away with automotive #180. Also most of the original shinogi I realized was pretty spot on despite the appearances: roughly 15mm from the edge, constant. All in all, 15 minutes and it was over with this.
For good measure, I gave a slight chamfer to the spine with #180, a good smoothing on the choil and finger hole with #1000 as well as smoothing the chamfer of the spine, then went with "cleaning" the handle of some of its easy to address faults. Still with #1000, just really cleaning and polishing: the scales, tang, bolster, welding marks. Any way I turn this however you can see in pictures those faults I cannot address - say ill-drilled rivet holes among others like spots on the tang that will require coarser sandpaper to address. #3000 sanding pad was used to polish the whole thing, blade and handle.
Ok now this was as clean as possible for a roughly 30 minutes go. Very easy to help this knife, and yet the result is worth it times 100 - faults are now very hard to catch from any distance but close inspection, and the pinch now feels adequately smooth too. Of course the bevels were left rough - but they were so righteous underneath a few ill-ground spots that with so little work done they would now be fairly easy to polish to mirror. And I hope they'll be just as smooth and easy to follow on the stones.
I decided I would document each step of this with a choil shot and a weighing of the knife. I want to know how much time with coarse sandpaper and stones amounts to about what kind of metal removal and weight loss. Not scientifically, just really be more aware of a progress I didn't verify so much with the Moritaka. Choil shot just helps to assess progress where any, obviously. Securing thing when you don't have much experience - hey, that's me!
Therefore...
Left: original. Right: actual.
About nothing happened there, as expected. If I let my imagination go wild, the actual choil is just a tad... crisper overall. The obvious difference in height of the shinogi from one side to the other on both choil shots is not something that pervades on the whole length. The bevel at the heel on the cutting side has a smallish spot of overgrind over the shinogi, making the choil shot deceptive. Sanding the consistent part of the bevel brought that spot a bit more into focus at the choil. I just hope I won't "slide" at that spot because of this when thinning and mess up with the tsuchime finish.
The insight from my poor scale says this blade lost 1g (207g originally from the same scale).
Being poor, at its level of precision, there's enough removed to tilt it down. Probably something around 0.25g in reality, from so little removal actually done. One could logically assert that the high spots I removed at both sides of the tip were a consistent enough amount of steel that I actually removed, still within error margin, about 0.75g - 1.5g. I'm not experienced enough to be able to assess this. I'd like a better scale, for sure.
Follow up soon... for me, right now, jumping on the stones in about 5 minutes.
To be continued...
Ah yes... was forgetting the prep for following on the stones: