Can I inquire as to the results or findings of sharpeing the ceramic blade?I'll let you know in a week or so.
I tried one of those quite expensive Kyocera knives at a friend's place a few years ago. I was a bit underwhelmed. The knife was undeniably very sharp, but I didn't like the way it felt and handled. In particular, I thought it was too light, and there was essentially no feedback while cutting. I can see though how such a knife would be useful to someone with arthritis or some such.i'm glad i dont have any of them
Not quite sure if I understood - was SG better than diamond or the other way around?Quick follow up, as time was much less than expected.
Knives used - 3 Chinese knives (same type, different sizes), 3 IKEA knives (same type, different sizes and pretty much Chinese, too). I've decided to keep one of each as reference, so I've used small medium size only.
Sharpening - in hand sharpening. I can make constant half a mm bevels like this, did hundreds and hundreds by now. Control sharpening, jig with CBN and Shapton Glass (same results as in hand sharpening, but slower). Just to be sure.
Knives were dulled with tungsten when necessary. One pass made them completely useless. A bit unexpected.
No new knife was able to cut hair, all were able to easily cut paper and tomatoes. I tried to mix them the best I could to get new and already used edges with different types.
Scenario imagined. What is faster for a working edge and for removing small size chipping. Time frame, one initial minute, one more minute after, additional time if needed. Took me a lot of time even like this and would mimic a fast recovery approach. Actually it worked quite well.
One plate created chipping and damaged the edge. I used this as reference. It was the Atoma 400 (and that is well used).
Another plate made visible saw edges, the Venev 400, but also made a working edge. Dick micro also made visible saw edges, but no working edge.
Stones able to remove chipping as good as possible - Atoma 1200 and unknown 2000 diamond plate. Both under a minute. A lot of powder generated really fast.
Stones able to make working edges after tungsten, that would roughly cut paper and cut tomatoes, but far from shaving hair obviously - Venev 400 and 800 (both hard bond), CBN 550 and 1100 (both metallic bond), two different types or very coarse SiC stones, fine SiC, coarse India, soft ark, Shapton Glass 500 (poorly considering the lot), Nanohone 400 (slightly better than SG 500, but poor as well), soft ark + 400 grit finish surgical. All these did not improve in the second time frame, so what I got in that initial minute remained the same. The arks worked better together. The soft ark was really rough. I was amazed it worked at all.
Stones able to cut paper pretty clean, but still no shaving - Chosera 1000 (I added 3k and 5k, but things didn't change much), Shapton Glass 2000 (a bit better than Chosera, but only after second minute and seeing this I gave the SG 2000 another 2 minutes, but no further improvement that I could feel), unknown sand stone, unknown medium coarse SiC (nothing faster than this to develop the edge, 30 seconds as I could see the "powder" already in large quantities). The last two were unexpected.
Stones able to clean cut and shave - none by themselves after tungsten. I shall try high grits someday. All I was able to test for several minutes was the 10000 Super Stone and nothing.
I did find a very very easy combo though - Shapton Glass 2000 + 6000 HR (took me 3 minutes with these to get a shave repeatedly). Shaving with Chosera 1000 + 5000 really questionable. Maybe if I take my time, but who knows. Didn't feel like it.
Best combo overall - Atoma 1200 + Shapton Glass 2000 + 6000 HR. This allowed me to make new bevels as well.
Quite a good number of stones or plates worked to make these knives usable again (except fine India for some reason). Cutting paper translated into cutting tomatoes without struggle and I would imagine most stuff.