Sharpening scissors freehand?

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Smashmasta

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The last thread I could find on KKF was about scissor suggestions, and the other didn't suggest any actual tools or stones. Is there a way to sharpen crappy plastic scissors, as well as barber scissors by hand, or is a machine required (I understand some people say it wouldn't be worth it, but that's not what I'm asking). What should the quality detachable scissors, such as mac, tojiro, JCK, etc be sharpened on? Thanks.
 

zitangy

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basic info... [video=youtube;4rVt6ZLB9Wg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rVt6ZLB9Wg[/video]

respect the profife of the edge tool... always unless you desire to change it

I use a small stone 1000 grit . and most of time it is stone to edge method....

Hv fun
 

Smashmasta

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basic info... [video=youtube;4rVt6ZLB9Wg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rVt6ZLB9Wg[/video]

respect the profife of the edge tool... always unless you desire to change it

I use a small stone 1000 grit . and most of time it is stone to edge method....

Hv fun
Thank you!
 

Steampunk

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[video=youtube;FjtcQodAsZI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjtcQodAsZI"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjtcQodAsZI[/video]

Hope this helps...

- Steampunk
 

Dave Martell

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All shear/scissor blades can be sharpened using either method shown above except.....

Do the shears/scissors have a ride line? If so, then the inside of the blade needs to be worked as shown in Maksim's video that Steampunk posted. If no ride line is present then STAY AWAY from the inside of the blades. Most all Japanese shears/scissors use ride lines whereas almost no western shears/scissors do. This is an important thing to understand when sharpening these tools.

Also worth noting is that shears/scissors can be de-burred by closing the blades against one another but only by placing paper towel between them as a cushion/buffer and then cutting the paper towel. Blades with ride lines should have the ride lines worked last (vs bevel last) so as to ensure the burr is facing outwards away from the edge(s). If you muck this up you'll have the blades catch on one another and form a ding in the edge on at least one blade.

Oh and another thing....tension is just as important as getting the edge sharp and de-burred. You can't make shears/scissors work correctly without setting the tension correctly. Blade tension is accomplished by working the pivot screw/nut/rivet and if a professional sharpener, adjusting blade curvature (set). Don't mess with the set, even if you think you can...trust me. :) Properly tensioned shears will allow the blade tips to fall closed to within 1/2"-1" of each other.
 
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