Should I buy a/some stones?

[spyne]

My traveling set up has evolved over the years. Right now it's the best it's ever been with a SG500, SG2000, SG4000 in the field kit (holder and storage).

Do you find the SG4000 a necessity or the edge off the SG2000 is perfectly usable?

 

[daveb]

For finer or better knives that can benefit from the 4000, I'll use it. Nice finisher. I do usually use the 2000 as an interim step before the 4000.

For knives with softer steel or on the cheaper end of spectrum the 2000 is perfectly useable. I've been known to stop at the 2000 for my own gyuto when I just want to get it done and get back to beating on the knife.

 

[HumbleHomeCook]

The answer to your original question is yes. I used a fixed system for some time and whole heartedly encourage you to explore free handing. You always have the system to reset things if you're struggling. And you will struggle. It is NORMAL! You do NOT produce hair whittling edges after a few goes and may never. I haven't free handing, but then again, I quite checking that a long time ago too...You will make mistakes and you will need to learn and you may find you plateau at a certain level. That is ABSOLUTELY OKAY! Do not start out trying for speed like you see in the videos. Be mindful of your angle and understanding what is happening along your bevel. Use a marker to show you. A loupe and light help as well.

Like @daveb I have the SG 500, 2k, and 4k. Since your knives are already tuned up, I'd recommend starting with the 2k. You can do a lot with it but also not be as concerned about removing too much metal to start. I would put the 4k as a distant want. Even with carbon steels I find myself not reaching for the 4k that much. I liked it a lot at first, and may warm back up to it, but I just like that 2k edge. That is not to say it is a bad stone or edge at all, I just personally find myself drawn to toothier edges.

 

[Jovidah]

If it's any consolation, I think all of the stones in your original post are good enough that the limiting factor will be your skill and not the stones... for any reasonably foreseeable future. Grits is something you can do as minimalistic or extreme as you want. A medium stone is the bare minimum, a coarse stone becomes really useful if you want to thin a knife (which you eventually will), or sharpen up a really blunt knife, and a finer stone is great for that extra step (on steel where it matters). How fine? Welcome to the rabbit hole...

Personally I like S&G since I can just quickly get going whenever I feel like it. Soakers work best if you can figure out a way to permasoak them. Water tank on the toilet is often suggested for that.

 

[cotedupy]

Thanks for all the suggestions so far!!

@coxhaus - definitely not going the power belt path. For one, the KO costs $400 here in Australia. I also wouldn't trust a power tool for the delicate edge of a high HRC carbon knife.

Looks like just about anything will do, I guess my decision is whether I want soakers or splash 'n go, with the general advice being that soakers tend to give better feedback/feel as you work. Though they are messier and require more 'effort' with the soaking and drying.
At the moment leaning towards the SG 500 + SP...2000 or 5000?
Or Naniwa 800/3000 combo. Arata or Kagayaki?

I really wouldn't recommend the Kagayaki 3k.