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I finished the other two handles that I am considering for the TF in my post four above. Cocobolo and maple; and Ron-Ron, African Blackwood spacer and desert ironwood. I think Ron-ron is a very under rated wood if for no other reason than the translation is Rum- Rum.
View attachment 188321

Since I'm here, I'll post some other handles.

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Cocobolo and African blackwood

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Cocobolo with maple on a Ron-Ron cutting board.
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Closeup of the figure.
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Left side.

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Cocobolo on a Yoshikane 240. I also made the table out of cocobolo. There are better pictures somewhere. The other side is actually better.
I made most of these with hand tools on my balcony or coffee table from information I got on this forum. I would like to express a deep sense of gratitude to the members who generously shared their knowledge. I've learned a lot. Thank you all.

Outstanding!

Would you have any interest in starting your own thread talking about your tools, methods, lessons, etc? I understand if not but this is something I'm very interested in and would love to read your insights.
 

Dr. T

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I would be happy to do that. I am leaving tomorrow for a five week trip to Europe so it would not be until September sometime, if you can wait. I mostly make **** up with the guidance that I found on this forum, but I do have some experience which comes with trial and error. i.e. mistakes. Probably what I can advise most on is finishing cocobolo. It is different. I saw a post that someone submitted on cocobolo that was pretty close to what I do about 6 months ago or so. If you are making your own handles, I can give you Ron-ron, cocobolo, and Ironwood. I don't think the ironwood I have is very pretty, but you are welcome to it. You pay shipping. I think I have one more really nice piece of cocobolo, and the Ron-ron is good.

For your amusement, here is a photo on my patio in Costa Rica while sanding down one of the handles. Suction vise on a glass table.
Yoshi handle_038web400-.jpg
 
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I would be happy to do that. I am leaving tomorrow for a five week trip to Europe so it would not be until September sometime, if you can wait. I mostly make **** up with the guidance that I found on this forum, but I do have some experience which comes with trial and error. i.e. mistakes. Probably what I can advise most on is finishing cocobolo. It is different. I saw a post that someone submitted on cocobolo that was pretty close to what I do about 6 months ago or so. If you are making your own handles, I can give you Ron-ron, cocobolo, and Ironwood. I don't think the ironwood I have is very pretty, but you are welcome to it. You pay shipping. I think I have one more really nice piece of cocobolo, and the Ron-ron is good.

For your amusement, here is a photo on my patio in Costa Rica while sanding down one of the handles. Suction vise on a glass table.View attachment 188364

Very generous but I'm not anywhere near ready yet. I'll slowly start picking up tools and contemplating.

And I can very much wait for your thread until your return. Have a safe trip!
 

tostadas

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Stabilized tasmanian blackwood and bog oak with black g10 spacer for my modified Matsubara ginsan cleaver.

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More of the cleaver info here
 
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I finally got around to doing some western style handles that I have been putting off.

For the Misono dragon 240, I used stabilized maple burl. This particular block had some spalting in it which tended to darken the color a tad. looks almost like granite with a glossy finish on it. As is my wont, I inlaid a piece of the handle wood into the highly figured walnut that I used to make the saya. By the way, that gorgeous blue patina on the blade is real, it isnt a reflection of the flowers.

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I have been procrastinating on this Takamura R-2 for a while. This has one of those half tangs that presented some real creative challenges, as you have to cut a very thin slot in the block, then drill the holes for corby bolts with such tight tolerances that you leave no play, which would be visible in the butt end of the handle. Came out pretty well though. I used stabilized pyinma burl for both the handle and the saya, since it is a fairly light wood, i figured it would keep the knife from being annoyingly handle heavy.


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Lastly, my little Kazan Hap40 150 petty, in stabilized curly maple, and a saya in similar curls.

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tostadas

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I finally got around to doing some western style handles that I have been putting off.

For the Misono dragon 240, I used stabilized maple burl. This particular block had some spalting in it which tended to darken the color a tad. looks almost like granite with a glossy finish on it. As is my wont, I inlaid a piece of the handle wood into the highly figured walnut that I used to make the saya. By the way, that gorgeous blue patina on the blade is real, it isnt a reflection of the flowers.

View attachment 191310 View attachment 191311 View attachment 191312


I have been procrastinating on this Takamura R-2 for a while. This has one of those half tangs that presented some real creative challenges, as you have to cut a very thin slot in the block, then drill the holes for corby bolts with such tight tolerances that you leave no play, which would be visible in the butt end of the handle. Came out pretty well though. I used stabilized pyinma burl for both the handle and the saya, since it is a fairly light wood, i figured it would keep the knife from being annoyingly handle heavy.


View attachment 191313 View attachment 191314


View attachment 191315


Lastly, my little Kazan Hap40 150 petty, in stabilized curly maple, and a saya in similar curls.

View attachment 191316 View attachment 191317
Your dragon with maple burl looks fantastic!
 
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My first handle build. More work than I thought it was going to be, but came out much better than I thought it would.
 

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