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I have stabilized lots of spalted wood, and frequently the starting weight of a blank is around 50 grams-- finished weight 150 grams..
Looks the same, the only change is the density. Of course you can use dye to change the colors too if you want.
This is a big learning curve. So think about having someone do it for you , as the cost, and time , unless you intend to do a lot is
hardly worth it.
 
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Off this subject, but I can not find a place to ask the question: I tried to look at a contemporary thread, and the site says I do not have permission to view this
page... What is going on?? What do I need to do?? There were three posts yesterday...
 
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I have stabilized lots of spalted wood, and frequently the starting weight of a blank is around 50 grams-- finished weight 150 grams..
Looks the same, the only change is the density. Of course you can use dye to change the colors too if you want.
This is a big learning curve. So think about having someone do it for you , as the cost, and time , unless you intend to do a lot is
hardly worth it.
That sounds ideal, the handles are too light at the moment! I get the feeling it'll be a pain to try and find someone to stabilise wood for me here in Japan.. oh well, I wonder how much weight using tung oil would add
 

tostadas

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That sounds ideal, the handles are too light at the moment! I get the feeling it'll be a pain to try and find someone to stabilise wood for me here in Japan.. oh well, I wonder how much weight using tung oil would add
Minimal weight added with oil. Probably no more than 5g.
 

Justinv

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I just don't want anything that will colour the wood. I like how light the colour is on whiter woods so for previous handles I've been using a water based polyurethane. It does the job but I'm not sold on its durability!

I recently used a product called Loba Invisible that is an ultra matte waterborne 2-part finish intended to leave wood looking unfinished (like raw wood). Its $$$$ due to having to buy a gallon. I used it on a table and was blown away by it. Its self leveling is beyond any water based finish I’ve tried. Its super durable since it is a 2-part finish.
 
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Wasabi-ken..
Go to the web site Cactus Juice Stabilizing Resin, Chambers, and Accessories , the guy there is Curtis, he invented the stabilizing business, and his customer service is amazing. If I were you, I would ask him if he has anyone in Japan who he sells to, and who might be interested in doing your spalted wood.
If anyone will know, it is him...That way you can have it done locally... I have done a ton of spalted wood, and whoever you get to do the job must know that the process will have to be run twice or more, as the fungus which creates the spalting also opens the porosity in the wood, and the surface tension of the stabilizing liquid is not enough to fill the enlarged pores with one treatment... Has to be done twice..
A good result with your wood will make it much more durable, but will not change the appearance.
 
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Wasabi-ken..
Go to the web site Cactus Juice Stabilizing Resin, Chambers, and Accessories , the guy there is Curtis, he invented the stabilizing business, and his customer service is amazing. If I were you, I would ask him if he has anyone in Japan who he sells to, and who might be interested in doing your spalted wood.
If anyone will know, it is him...That way you can have it done locally... I have done a ton of spalted wood, and whoever you get to do the job must know that the process will have to be run twice or more, as the fungus which creates the spalting also opens the porosity in the wood, and the surface tension of the stabilizing liquid is not enough to fill the enlarged pores with one treatment... Has to be done twice..
A good result with your wood will make it much more durable, but will not change the appearance.
That's a damn good pointer! I'll hit him up, worth a try. I hear you with the spalted wood part, I can tell that the wood really has deteriorated quite a lot. It's so light and soft.
 
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