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Fresh Holly wood scales on this Hiromoto HC 300mm. I removed the bolster because it was rusted through underneath. Definitely an improvement over my prior handles but I am frustrated that the Corby's discolored the wood around them; most likely due to overheating while sanding.

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Western handles with light colored woods tend to have that issue near the metal areas. It could be discoloration from the metal shavings from the bolts. I've also had the problem working around the tang area.
 
I mean… come on!

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You could fill it with super glue and saw dust if it bothers you, but as T said Wenge just likes to act up
 
Works well enough, but I’m getting some split like structure along the grain in the Wenge even after filing and sanding, is this something to be concerned about?
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There was a post somewhere a few months ago about how Will Catcheside finished a wenge handle with bronze filings to fill in those gaps. It wasn’t 100% to my taste, but a cool concept.

But yeah, I have a wenge handle with that open structure but way more pronounced.
 
Walnut and white horn for these two super cool knives.

I feel like sometimes, small knives tends to be visually dominated by their handles and being a bit uncomfortable, when it comes to WA handles.
To my eyes, this turned out very pleasing both to the eyes and hands.
I’m happy to send this back to a member of this fantastic forum.

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This is a two tone ambonyna burl handle to go on a knife that I made in knifemaking workshop. It's a very dramatic combination, but I find that they compliment each other nicely and I'm really happy with how it has come together.

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Left and right sides:

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Top and bottom sides, with some decent taper:

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Figured I should post this one here before it leaves. Amboyna burl, home stabilized, sanded up to 320 grit, finished with 2 coats of odies hardwax oil and then a coat of axe wax.
 

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My experimental take on a half octo. This one was laid out as an ellipse with chamfered top edges rather than an octo with rounded bottom. A minor detail but I think this allows for a slightly fuller handle with more curvature along the sides. Mono bog oak for simplicity.

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I do my Rokkaku Hanmaru this way - works great and quite easy to get a symmetrical handle.
Found out that I need to start out with bigger dimensions than a WA, as I find that the rounding of the bottom removes more material than expected.
Yours looks great
 
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