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Joining in on the Merion wagon, new to me deep etched wrought clad 1.2562. Got it in a bundle deal as an add on and is surprisingly fun so far. Think a repolish project is in order once I can get my skill up.
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I was thinking CT2 because I don’t need steam. I have a Rocket R91 that will be on all the time regardless. CT2 is just so expensive. Odyssey looks good, but it seems that the wait time might be long.
Super happy that I pulled the trigger on CT2 when euro was super weak.. And polishing copper is fun next to polishing blades 🤣
 
Kagekiyo Sakimaru Takobiki Shirogmi #2 270MM double bevel

Was originally a custom order when I originally contacted Japanese Knife Imports on having this made. The almost year and a half wait was worth it.
 

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Yeah, hard stop is a rock chop thing. Push, pull it doesn't affect
Thanks - good to confirm!

Disagree. It's not a big deal but I notice a hard stop when push cutting - if I'm not paying attention to being consistent in the angle I initiate cuts with, it still makes some annoying 'clunks'.
 
Disagree. It's not a big deal but I notice a hard stop when push cutting - if I'm not paying attention to being consistent in the angle I initiate cuts with, it still makes some annoying 'clunks'.
Interesting. When I had a Yoshi or Kono YS-M which are both known for the stop, I never felt anything push or pull cutting, only while rocking.
 
Baba Hamono, Kagekiyo Blue #1 Black Damascus by Y. Tanaka, just looking it at and it's stunning. Few more japanese knives left before moving into Western makers.

Saw the 20% off in Miura and I couldn't stop from bringing this knife to Europe.

I've searched quite a bit on how to restore and mainintain the black etching on the knife. It seems that it will wear down somewhat but I haven't had a concrete findings yet.

If anyone has some personal experimentation with it I would love to hear it.



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Yeah, hard stop is a rock chop thing. Push, pull it doesn't affect
I respectfully disagree too (for my technique anyway) - I do not rock chop ever with nice knives, but still find that ‘hard stops’ on the heel are really noticeable and offputting.

Whenever you push cut with anything that has even the slightest whisper of belly and isn’t completely flat with all the edge touching the board at once, you have to allow for a tiny amount of ‘rock’ pivoting from your pinch grip in order to get continuous contact from tip to heel. And it’s at the end of that movement where I get the sad little thunk.
 
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Baba Hamono, Kagekiyo Blue #1 Black Damascus by Y. Tanaka, just looking it at and it's stunning. Few more japanese knives left before moving into Western makers.

Saw the 20% off in Miura and I couldn't stop from bringing this knife to Europe.

I've searched quite a bit on how to restore and mainintain the black etching on the knife. It seems that it will wear down somewhat but I haven't had a concrete findings yet.

If anyone has some personal experimentation with it I would love to hear it.



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Getting today the twin with the red handle
 
I respectfully disagree too (for my technique anyway) - I do not rock chop ever with nice knives, but still find that ‘hard stops’ on the heel are really noticeable and offputting.

Whenever you push cut with anything that has even the slightest whisper of belly and isn’t completely flat with all the edge touching the board at once, you have to allow for a tiny amount of ‘rock’ pivoting from your pinch grip in order to get continuous contact from tip to heel. And it’s at the end of that movement where I get the sad little thunk.
Can it not be easily remedied by intentionally putting a backwards slant on the heel? It's not like that part underneath the pinch grip is used to cut that much anyways
 
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Can it not be easily remedied by intentionally putting a backwards slant on the heel? It's not like the party underneath the pinch grip is used to cut that much anyways
In my experience, that just brings the thunk point further down the knife when it’s a bad case of it, and you’re removing functional edge in any case, as you say.

When the knife has a proper flat profile, you’re better reprofiling the edge to remove material in front of the heel, in order to ensure there’s a very gentle curve all the way from heel all the way to tip.

Steve Joyce of RockChop did this for my custom Maillet (before thinning and polishing the bevels again to get it looking nice) a few months ago when I was too slammed with work/life to do any projects.

Frankly. we must protect him at all costs, because that can be a bit of a hassle to do from start to finish. It also completely rescued that knife from BST - the flat profile wasn’t quite gelling with me before but it’s now currently one of my most frequently used knives.
 
Baba Hamono, Kagekiyo Blue #1 Black Damascus by Y. Tanaka, just looking it at and it's stunning. Few more japanese knives left before moving into Western makers.

Saw the 20% off in Miura and I couldn't stop from bringing this knife to Europe.

I've searched quite a bit on how to restore and mainintain the black etching on the knife. It seems that it will wear down somewhat but I haven't had a concrete findings yet.

If anyone has some personal experimentation with it I would love to hear
Here it is
 

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You know you’re f***ed when @martinhuber works only a minute away and drops a couple of knives:

174 / 65 / 261.5g - 1.2419 in 1.2842 clad and pure nickel layer, handle in stabilized Amboyna burl, orange G10 + carbon spacers, stabilized bog oak ferrule

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How about ARO?

Sexy Rectangle 🤤🤤🤤
 

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