ZACKLY! I have a BD1N CKTG knife I let the guys have and it's a PITA to sharpen. I was able to thin the knife and then have it shaving papertowel with very little effort sharpening.
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ZACKLY! I have a BD1N CKTG knife I let the guys have and it's a PITA to sharpen. I was able to thin the knife and then have it shaving papertowel with very little effort sharpening.
How high of grit are you using to not require a strop? I can go pretty high but the strop always polishes the edge shinier. I am using a Worksharp so maybe power stropping is different.
You now have me stropping all my kitchen knives.
You now have me stropping all my kitchen knives.
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Huh. Haven't tried that. I will.
I'm using 800 FEPA-P (2Kish)
What made the BD1N difficult for you? I have one knife in it and find it very nice to sharpen.
I now since I have been on this forum, sharpen to 6000 and then I strop with leather and white polishing compound every kitchen knife I own which is around 30 knives give or take a few. The stopping makes the edge shiner.
I have a king 1k and sp2k at work. I usually try not to let any of the house knives go too far past what the 1k could bring back to life but that BD1N was a pain. It was easy to sharpen of a sp500 but other than that it was just hard to get a clean edge. I would still get it sharp but never hot knife thru butter feeling.
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Stropping is just a tool or a technique to achieve an end. Stropping (in the context of off the stones) in the larger knife world is actually quite controversial. Many believe it to be a crutch to overcome shortcomings in sharpening technique. And some, depending on the medium, steel, and intended use, believe it is a short term solution.
"Shinier" isn't necessarily relevant to performance. It depends on what you want from the edge. Sharpening-focused stropping should, in my opinion, always be about final burr removal and micro-refinement. If you can achieve that off the stone of your choice, great, if not, use whatever medium you want to do so, just don't re-establish a burr (which I personally believe is over concerned).
I strop
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Cool and thank you. I always sharpened mine on a low grit and found it quite responsive but I was shooting for general purpose use and not in a pro kitchen.
I was happy with lower grits before I was on this forum. Since then, I noticed after I strop the edge it is shiner and it cuts through an onion smoother and easier. I attribute this all to this forum. I really hate sharpening but now my standard is stropping.
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There is only one absolute rule to sharpening: If your edges work for you then they are the right edges.
Picked up a King 8000 to compare to my beloved and well worn Kitayama. It came glued to a plastic base. The King is very hard, nice to deburr on and leaves a more aggressive feeling edge, but maybe a little less keen “scary” sharpness/refinement that the Kitayama brings out, although I’ve only touched up a couple knives. A lot of knives/steels can’t hold a Kitayama edge very long, but the King 8000 edge feels like it may be a bit longer lasting, although I’ll need to test this more. So far, I like it a lot.
Stropping works for me but I have to be careful. Right at first, I raised the tip up too high and the first inch was not as sharp. So, if I don't strop correctly, it does not make my knife sharper. I power strop using a Worksharp Ken Onion with polishing compound.
Bart.s
Well-Known Member
My recent buys:
Both of BST, left: Aiiwatani Koppa for polishing, right: Tomae + Nagura's for Sharpening. Very happy with them, my first Jnats.
150gr. of Uchigumori powder
Both of BST, left: Aiiwatani Koppa for polishing, right: Tomae + Nagura's for Sharpening. Very happy with them, my first Jnats.
150gr. of Uchigumori powder
Sweet!
inferno
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) <*))))><
imo the less muddy the stone, talking high grits, the cleaner the edge and the more agressive its gonna be when done. my fav is the 8k and 12k shaptons.
Yeah, in use so far, the King 8K is much less muddy and leaves a more bitey/aggressive edge while the Kitayama adds more push cutting refinement. Shapton 12k is on my to try list. Have you used the Suehiro green 8K for edges? Wondering about that one too.
inferno
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) <*))))><
yes. the white and the green 8k suehiros feels almost identical. the edges off the white one i remember feels ultra aggressive.
but the white one creates a finish with lots of silver streaks in it. so i prefer the green over the white one.
the green one is silicon carbide.
the 8k edges are probably more practical than the 12k shapton to be honest. they are also much faster stones. and they clog a lot less.
but the white one creates a finish with lots of silver streaks in it. so i prefer the green over the white one.
the green one is silicon carbide.
the 8k edges are probably more practical than the 12k shapton to be honest. they are also much faster stones. and they clog a lot less.
Agreed on the practicality. I just wanted to try the 12k for some light stropping or maybe a 1k-12k hybrid edge.
nakiriknaifuwaifu
Senior Member
What is that crazy looking stone on the left??
This guy showed up today. Shoubudani namazu suita - soft, muddy, autoslurrying monster. One single renge dot. Bigger than Naniwa bench stone, and almost twice as thick. Chipped up and kind of sketchy on the sides, but hey if anything breaks off I’d love to have a nagura piece or some fingerstones. Had mild regrets not picking the marouyama shiro, but this thing was wayyyy bigger for the same price. Just not shaped/cut super nice. Now where’s my polish mule..
nakiriknaifuwaifu
Senior Member
My new gear. Nothing special, but I am glad I finally got it.
The only thing I did not like, is the text "Designed in JAPAN. Made in China.".
Well, I know what one would say: That reflects the price.
I hope the metal bolts won't rust, yet Naniwa says "Long exposure to water may cause parts to rust."
The only thing I did not like, is the text "Designed in JAPAN. Made in China.".
Well, I know what one would say: That reflects the price.
I hope the metal bolts won't rust, yet Naniwa says "Long exposure to water may cause parts to rust."
Attachments
I don't have that one but my experience with others is they will develop some surface rust. You can give the rods a quick spray with WD40 or the like and you'll be good. Remember to move the rubber pieces once in a while.
I think stone holders are big improvement to the sharpening regiment.
One of my best purchases: 1 micron diamond spray from Sharpening Depot. This is a huge improvement over the green bar of compound that I had been using. When stropping with the green compound, I would get a sharp result, but as I stropped more, I would round the edge (regardless of angle and pressure), and it would make cutting tomato and pepper skin difficult. With the diamond spray and the same technique from me, stropping now gives me even sharper results that have no issues with easily cutting tomato or pepper skins. When touching up my knives with a strop loaded with the diamond spray, it restores the ability of my knives to cleanly or somewhat cleanly cut paper towel (probably better/cleaner than straight off of my Rika 5k). This might mean that I have subpar technique with my stones, but I am getting results that I am really happy with, which is what matters to me. It feels like I am on easy mode when polishing edges and touching up knives.
This little guy just landed:
This is the 6"x2". Preferring the versatility of larger stones, I don't normally buy the smaller ones but this guy is for some of my higher alloy pocket knives so it will be fine. Especially at the price point.
This is the 6"x2". Preferring the versatility of larger stones, I don't normally buy the smaller ones but this guy is for some of my higher alloy pocket knives so it will be fine. Especially at the price point.
