Nice job - can you tell more about the etching business?Did a polishing and etching job on my friend @Cebastian Hado
Show your work! Uchigumori and co...
- Thread starter nutmeg
- Start date
Help Support Kitchen Knife Forums:
Uncle Danny
Support your local stonehead
I have literally read all I know in here and then went for it with great respect for the knife, as it was my friends.
Basically zeroed the patina, polished the knife to a degree where it wasn’t to shiny, then went to town with hot lemon acid, baking soda and hot water with soap.
Repeated that 8 times
Wasn’t a particularly fast process, but time does not bother me
Basically zeroed the patina, polished the knife to a degree where it wasn’t to shiny, then went to town with hot lemon acid, baking soda and hot water with soap.
Repeated that 8 times
Wasn’t a particularly fast process, but time does not bother me
That's it, the polishing project is now complete! I installed the handle last night and now this gyuto is ready to be sharpened, I will start using it tonight.
It's more than pleasant to work with a honyaki blade and it's by far what I love doing the most now. Doing a mirror finish is really my element and to see the hamon appear and reveal its beauty is... it's simply magnificent. It's a lot of work to get there, especially with this steel which once again showed me that patience is a virtue. But holding something in your hand that you are proud of is priceless.
Knife maker - @MSicardCutlery
Type - Gyuto, Honyaki
Steel - Sheffcut
Hrc - ~65
Length - 225mm
Total weight - 171g
Hamon style - Midare and ashi with a crisp nioi
Handle - Wenge, pearl resin ring and micarta spacers - Heptagonal - 140mm
Sandpaper - Initial state at 320 and followed by 400 & 800 with 3M
Diamond pate - 1,2k-1,5k-2k-3k-4k-5k-14k-50k-100k-200k by TechDiamondTools
Etching - Ferric chloride diluted with water, 3:1
It's more than pleasant to work with a honyaki blade and it's by far what I love doing the most now. Doing a mirror finish is really my element and to see the hamon appear and reveal its beauty is... it's simply magnificent. It's a lot of work to get there, especially with this steel which once again showed me that patience is a virtue. But holding something in your hand that you are proud of is priceless.
Knife maker - @MSicardCutlery
Type - Gyuto, Honyaki
Steel - Sheffcut
Hrc - ~65
Length - 225mm
Total weight - 171g
Hamon style - Midare and ashi with a crisp nioi
Handle - Wenge, pearl resin ring and micarta spacers - Heptagonal - 140mm
Sandpaper - Initial state at 320 and followed by 400 & 800 with 3M
Diamond pate - 1,2k-1,5k-2k-3k-4k-5k-14k-50k-100k-200k by TechDiamondTools
Etching - Ferric chloride diluted with water, 3:1
Last edited:
Fellipi wrought with atagoyama suita from Ikkyu. I may get addicted at this rate…
Please post progression and after… I’m still trying to figure out when is enough
Always can tell your work without looking at who posted it. It’s always a step above!!
That's some serious low spots right there! I can feel the pain Nick.. but don't despair, once that's done you'll be able to start having more fun
That's so sweet of you.. really! Thanks man
I had imposter syndrome for a long time and it really sucked. I don't think I'm good or experienced enough yet, but I'm working really hard to improve. Like for example, today I repolished another honyaki blade 3 times to experiment with things.
These are things that I obviously don't publish, because they're often botched or experimental. But anyone who wants to progress, it’s possible! You just have to put in the time and make mistakes to learn from them
So yeah, your comment warms my heart and thank you again!
That looks like a nightmare 
Going back with a Atoma 400That looks like a nightmare
Attachments
You need a 100 grit stone or forget it 
This is when everyone learns to appreciate stone perfected bevels price
This is when everyone learns to appreciate stone perfected bevels price
Last edited:
You ain’t kidding. Pulled out the Atoma 140You need a 100 grit stone or forget it
This is when everyone learns to appreciate a stone perfected bevels price
Attachments
I was think the 140
very satisfying seeing the low spots get smaller and smaller!
Home stretch!! (Of the first side lol)
Attachments
Wait.. there's two side!?
Uncle Danny
Support your local stonehead
That is a lot of work 
I know what you are going through. It’s hard work! Nice to see you keep at it - not much else to do, right?
I know what you are going through. It’s hard work! Nice to see you keep at it - not much else to do, right?
Now that is some crazy patience and some really nice work! I've felt similar pain when trying to correct the bevel of a yanagiba, but I don't think my experience even compares... I hope I can get some more practice and get to that level.
Alright gang, this is where I ended up on the Isamitsu but I need some advice / help. I noticed that I screwed up the tip & nose by grinding a high spot when I was getting out low spots to even out the bevel (light passes through when I shine a light behind)
How do you not do this? What can I do next time? Do you grind out low spots, the check the profile AND THEN start polishing away? Just trying to learn
@ethompson @KasumiJLA
How do you not do this? What can I do next time? Do you grind out low spots, the check the profile AND THEN start polishing away? Just trying to learn
@ethompson @KasumiJLA
Attachments
I'm liking what I see in that cladding
You need to rotate and lift more towards the tip to avoid overworking the area just behind the tip. Constantly be checking your work, including profile, as you go.
@NickMinton first of all, nice job on this knife man! I know the pain and I really enjoy what you've done here 
I never had that crazy amount of low spots but my technique is always the same :
- Eliminate all low spots on coarser stone, I usually use a Shapton 220. I'm doubly careful near the tip and I try not to cheat near the heel, so as not to raise the shinogi line.
- A tight progression on coarser stone is always beneficial, especially to remove every deep scratches left with the 200. I then go with shapton 320 and check if everything is nice and crisp. At this point I can focus on the final geometry too.
- Naniwa 400 will reveal any imperfections and at this point you may have to go back to 320 to fine tune some spots. Usually after this stone, if the job is well made, it's just a matter of progression until the polish desired.
I never had that crazy amount of low spots but my technique is always the same :
- Eliminate all low spots on coarser stone, I usually use a Shapton 220. I'm doubly careful near the tip and I try not to cheat near the heel, so as not to raise the shinogi line.
- A tight progression on coarser stone is always beneficial, especially to remove every deep scratches left with the 200. I then go with shapton 320 and check if everything is nice and crisp. At this point I can focus on the final geometry too.
- Naniwa 400 will reveal any imperfections and at this point you may have to go back to 320 to fine tune some spots. Usually after this stone, if the job is well made, it's just a matter of progression until the polish desired.
Makes sense, thank you
Ok cool, I’ll probably pick up a Shapton 220 and naniwa 400 then@NickMinton first of all, nice job on this knife man! I know the pain and I really enjoy what you've done here
I never had that crazy amount of low spots but my technique is always the same :
- Eliminate all low spots on coarser stone, I usually use a Shapton 220. I'm doubly careful near the tip and I try not to cheat near the heel, so as not to raise the shinogi line.
- A tight progression on coarser stone is always beneficial, especially to remove every deep scratches left with the 200. I then go with shapton 320 and check if everything is nice and crisp. At this point I can focus on the final geometry too.
- Naniwa 400 will reveal any imperfections and at this point you may have to go back to 320 to fine tune some spots. Usually after this stone, if the job is well made, it's just a matter of progression until the polish desired.
