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Work in progress: Sukenari usuba after SP1k. The bevels were pretty damned flat and I would definitely recommend at least their usuba.
 

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Watch out for the distal taper on the shinogi also.
Yeah that region near the shinogi at the tip was a pain to hit. I’m not really sure whether to grind that down or if it’s supposed to be there. Anyway, after about 3 hours and skipping ahead because I wanted to see, here’s where I stopped at 1am that night. Good contrast compared to where I started but definitely a ton of scratches to work out. Plus a few times the cognac did it’s work on the hira which I haven’t otherwise touched.
 

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Yeah that region near the shinogi at the tip was a pain to hit. I’m not really sure whether to grind that down or if it’s supposed to be there. Anyway, after about 3 hours and skipping ahead because I wanted to see, here’s where I stopped at 1am that night. Good contrast compared to where I started but definitely a ton of scratches to work out. Plus a few times the cognac did it’s work on the hira which I haven’t otherwise touched.
Others have more expertise than I do, but this may be what you are running into ..



I learned about it here (thanks to @natto)

https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/threads/single-bevel-sharpening.58156/page-4
 
I read that thread and somehow missed that video. Thanks @noj ! Apparently I just need to polish in such a way to keep the lines parallel and not much else matters.
 
Bench nagura are newer to me and I've never taken the time to figure them out properly. Over the last week or so I've been messing around with surface prep and finishes and think I have a better handle on things now. With a roughed up surface the I've found a great ability to leave a matte kasumi.
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And then burnishing the surface with a tomo, rinsing slurry, and allow the surface to dry out I find I can get much more detail to pop if I fight the grabby feeling.
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Don’t get me wrong, I know I’m not any good at this, but I had a good time tidying up my Kaiju this morning with some Uchi finger stones, followed by Uchi powder and a cork to get around the raised kanji better.

Also first time posting a video on this site, hope it works 😬

 
Don’t get me wrong, I know I’m not any good at this, but I had a good time tidying up my Kaiju this morning with some Uchi finger stones, followed by Uchi powder and a cork to get around the raised kanji better.

Also first time posting a video on this site, hope it works 😬

View attachment 227200
Nice to see one of these badboys actually getting used!
 
Nice to see one of these badboys actually getting used!
Oh man, I use it soooo much. It’s probably used for a meal every second day right now. It’s just too good!

Hence the reason I’m doing my best to learn how to care for it and keep it looking respectable.
 
I kind of think I did a better job on the second side, what do you guys think? I spent more time with the uchi stone very gradually reducing the pressure until it was just floating across the surface for the last couple minutes. I also switched the music from Springsteen to Billie Eilish. So I guess one of those two things made a difference. Not sure which yet 🤔

Also, this uchi stone is officially less than paper thin.

 
I've said it once and I will say it again. The thinner the better for finger stones. The only way the thick ones work is if the geometry of the blade is flat (which it almost certainly shouldn't be)
I believe the traditional saying loosely translated from Japanese is: “Thin stones and thick beats, makes polishing knives quite a treat”.
 
I’ve always used finger stones thick and super thick, the geometry doesn’t need to be flat in order for this to work.

Thin is good also, but not needed. It’s easy to put limitations on things, but it’s much more difficult to keep an open mind and figure out solutions and new ways to do things.

There really are no absolutes or “laws” in polishing, sharpening, or geometry. Rather the need or desire for a specific solution or geometry that is most important.

Sometimes extreme convex is best sometimes flat or even concave, just depends…


I've said it once and I will say it again. The thinner the better for finger stones. The only way the thick ones work is if the geometry of the blade is flat (which it almost certainly shouldn't be)
 
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No, I don’t even do that.

I make sure to start with a very high quality stone that’s soft to begin with. Sometimes it needs to be much smaller if the knife bevel is uneven. I soak all of the stones in hot water as well.

I’m always trying different things, especially when someone says something can only be done one way or that it must be “traditional”. Right away I’m trying something different 👍🏻

We forget that there are three dimensions sometimes. 😄



Do you still break it into tiny pieces, to make it flexible (after gluing to paper)? Or just use it in one solid piece?
 
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No, I don’t even do that.

I make sure to start with a very high quality stone that’s soft to begin with. Sometimes it needs to be much smaller if the knifes bevel is uneven. I soak all of the stones in hot water as well.

I’m always trying different things, especially when someone says something can only be done one way or that it must be “traditional”. Right away I’m trying something different 👍🏻

We forget that there are three dimensions sometimes. 😄
haha I like that approach... need to try some quarter-thick fingerstones someday...
 
No, I don’t even do that.

I make sure to start with a very high quality stone that’s soft to begin with. Sometimes it needs to be much smaller if the knife bevel is uneven. I soak all of the stones in hot water as well.

I’m always trying different things, especially when someone says something can only be done one way or that it must be “traditional”. Right away I’m trying something different 👍🏻

We forget that there are three dimensions sometimes. 😄
well, to be honest there is 4 dimensions
this guy below in the vid explains it all in 9 hours.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-dimensional_space
8-cell-simple.gif


 
I’ve always used finger stones thick and super thick, the geometry doesn’t need to be flat in order for this to work.

Thin is good also, but not needed. It’s easy to put limitations on things, but it’s much more difficult to keep an open mind and figure out solutions and new ways to do things.

There really are no absolutes or “laws” in polishing, sharpening, or geometry. Rather the need or desire for a specific solution or geometry that is most important.

Sometimes extreme convex is best sometimes flat or even concave, just depends…
Other than the hot water soak, how are you preparing the finger stones?
 
I make sure there are no sharp edges anywhere, everything needs to be rounded

I polish the whole finger stone on my finest bench stone

I make super small movements that repeatedly overlap very well in incredibly small increments

I hold the stone very light and let go if the stone feels like it’s starting to grab at all or just has too much friction at anytime

I use water from a spray bottle, usually with a small amount of bicarbonate to prevent rusting

You want to keep polishing until the stone feels like it’s just gliding over the surface with zero resistance

well, to be honest there is 4 dimensions
this guy below in the vid explains it all in 9 hours.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-dimensional_space
8-cell-simple.gif


Other than the hot water soak, how are you preparing the finger stones?
 
I make sure there are no sharp edges anywhere, everything needs to be rounded

I polish the whole finger stone on my finest bench stone

I make super small movements that repeatedly overlap very well in incredibly small increments

I hold the stone very light and let go if the stone feels like it’s starting to grab at all or just has too much friction at anytime

I use water from a spray bottle, usually with a small amount of bicarbonate to prevent rusting

You want to keep polishing until the stone feels like it’s just gliding over the surface with zero resistance
Thank you! This is super helpful
 
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