Understood. I already have the Chosera 400 > 600 > 1000 line up. Question is whether I need a lower grit (depends on the project I suppose) and if so, what to buy. Debado 180 is double the price of shapton pro, so wondering if I can get away with a Shapton, at least to begin with…
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Withdrawn Starter stones for kasumi
- Thread starter JPAU
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I bit the bullet and got a debado 180 and a mini atoma 400 for slurry
For those following along, aside form some Shapton Glass and Rockstars and a BBW, which I use for edge sharpening, I have acquired the following stones:
- Debado 180
- Naniwa Chosera 400, 600 and 1000
- Naniwa Arata (baby Chosera) 3000 and 5000
- a couple of naturals (maruoyama shiki uchi, umegehata karasu suita)
- finger stones and uchiko powder
I will report back once I have had an opportunity to use them.
** All of this depends on the knife and its starting geometry. All descriptions below are my overall process but may be different than others.
1. Get a general inspection of the blade you want to polish. Is it straight? Any weird changes from one side compared to the other? How’s the bevel (wide, low, full, etc.)
2. Make a cross hatch marking pattern with sharpie across the portion of the blade you want to polish. This is so that you can see what portions of the blade you are polishing as well as low spots
3. Prep your first stone (flatten, round the edges, get a slurry, soak if need be)
4. Lay the blade down on the stone and have the blade just very very slightly lifted up. You’ll apply pressure where the blade meets the stone with 2-3 fingers. You’ll start at the tip and work your way down to the heel, just like with edge sharpening.
5. After one pass along the edge of the blade from tip to heel, inspect the blade and see where your sharpie marks were removed. If there’s still sharpie marks present, then you haven’t “hit” that portion of the blade. This could be due to a low spot or that you haven’t angled the blade appropriately (common with the tip)
6. As you want to hit higher up the blade and closer to the shinogi line, you’ll have to place the fingers you have applying pressure higher up the blade and closer to the shinogi. Wherever you place your fingers and the pressure is where you’ll hit the blade onto the stone
7. Essentially, your goal is to get rid of high and low spots while keeping connectivity (if you want that). An easy / simple way to think about this is that you’re grinding away all the metal on the bevel until you’ve reached the low spots. This is an important note because once you find the low spots (sharpie marks still present), you want to polish / grind all the other spots until they come down to the same level as the low spots. Spend some time researching Hamiguri polishing to learn about maintaining convexity
8. You’ll need to do this to both side and flip back and forth appropriately so that you don’t spend several hours only grinding one side of a blade or you risk warping it.
My main advice is take it slow and don’t try this for the first time on a $500+ knife that’s otherwise beautiful. Check out Milan and Ivanyuka videos on YouTube to also learn
My first polish projects sucked and I had no idea what I was doing. Some might say I still don’t
Thank you! I’ll read that thrice** All of this depends on the knife and its starting geometry. All descriptions below are my overall process but may be different than others.
1. Get a general inspection of the blade you want to polish. Is it straight? Any weird changes from one side compared to the other? How’s the bevel (wide, low, full, etc.)
2. Make a cross hatch marking pattern with sharpie across the portion of the blade you want to polish. This is so that you can see what portions of the blade you are polishing as well as low spots
3. Prep your first stone (flatten, round the edges, get a slurry, soak if need be)
4. Lay the blade down on the stone and have the blade just very very slightly lifted up. You’ll apply pressure where the blade meets the stone with 2-3 fingers. You’ll start at the tip and work your way down to the heel, just like with edge sharpening.
5. After one pass along the edge of the blade from tip to heel, inspect the blade and see where your sharpie marks were removed. If there’s still sharpie marks present, then you haven’t “hit” that portion of the blade. This could be due to a low spot or that you haven’t angled the blade appropriately (common with the tip)
6. As you want to hit higher up the blade and closer to the shinogi line, you’ll have to place the fingers you have applying pressure higher up the blade and closer to the shinogi. Wherever you place your fingers and the pressure is where you’ll hit the blade onto the stone
7. Essentially, your goal is to get rid of high and low spots while keeping connectivity (if you want that). An easy / simple way to think about this is that you’re grinding away all the metal on the bevel until you’ve reached the low spots. This is an important note because once you find the low spots (sharpie marks still present), you want to polish / grind all the other spots until they come down to the same level as the low spots. Spend some time researching Hamiguri polishing to learn about maintaining convexity
8. You’ll need to do this to both side and flip back and forth appropriately so that you don’t spend several hours only grinding one side of a blade or you risk warping it.
My main advice is take it slow and don’t try this for the first time on a $500+ knife that’s otherwise beautiful. Check out Milan and Ivanyuka videos on YouTube to also learn
My first polish projects sucked and I had no idea what I was doing. Some might say I still don’t
Another valuable thread for learning. Thanks all!
