I'd go with an SiC stone (JNS 800 Matukusuyama, which is a real workhorse for me on abrasion resistant steels. Or, King NEO 800, which BBB's a fan of.), or a well broken-in diamond plate (I like Dianova, though they're a little small for larger knives. DMT Dia-Sharp Fine/Extra Fine is an option, though the quality has gone downhill quite a bit over the years. In either case, break it in first with the back of a woodworking chisel or plane iron for awhile, or very gently with a piece of mild steel bar.).
SiC water stones feel better to sharpen on, and are more forgiving to deburr on. However, the plates do create a 'crisper' feeling edge, and are of course much lower mess/maintenance. The JNS 800 is quite a soft, thirsty stone.
I've got the JKI resin diamond stones... Honestly, if you're just interested in a 1K-ish stone, I'm not 100% certain I'd recommend this stone in isolation. The 1K works great as a set with the 6K, but I can't say I like the 1K's edge finish as much as plates in this range. It's also nowhere near as easy to deburr on as an SiC water stone, and is a lot more expensive. The JKI resin diamond 1K does eat metal quickly and indiscriminately, with much better feel than plates. It's just not where I personally want to stop sharpening.
My experience with using AlOx stones (Including Shapton GS HR.) on HAP-40, is that they can remove metal, and generate a burr. However, they are slower going, and the edge doesn't have the bite, or last as long as when you use diamonds or at least silicon carbide to shape/refine the apex... That said, a lot of people are really happy with their results on HAP-40 with AlOx stones. My experience has just been a little different.
As Troopah said, 1-Micron diamond paste/spray after a mid-grit stone/plate is a really nice edge on HAP-40. Very aggressive, but still shaving sharp.
Hope this helps.