This thread has devolved into a 'jig vs. freehand' thread, which is unfortunate, as the OP's intent was merely to show some detail of his preferred deburring technique (With microscope images, which are always nice to see, and the vast majority of people who are into sharpening and are happy with their edges do not examine or share...)... There are lots of ways to achieve sharp culinary edges, which for me is part of the fun of sharpening.
I am a freehand sharpener. Not because I believe it superior, but because I don't have access to a jig system that has been as well engineered as the Bogdan system, or some of the other more obscure jigs... I really enjoy the tactility of freehand sharpening, and am constantly learning about what I do, but every time I sharpen I am reminded that precision is never a bad thing in creating an edge... Sure, less precise edges can still get the work done... But even for the freehand craftsman, there are days when your hands are steadier than others, and you can feel the difference in the edges you create... This is real. Unless robots are posting their sharpening results, we're all human. There's a zen to freehand sharpening a knife, and I could easily spend the rest of my life learning to do it better... But if I could achieve an edge with perfect angle and pressure control across the full curvature and length of a blade, using a jig, I'd do it every time unless the urge to rock it 'old school' took me over... Precision is part of what we try to train ourselves to do as freehand sharpeners, and a jig that is well designed theoretically can take that to the next level without degrading our 'craft'.
Edge Pros and Wicked Edge type systems simply don't cut it... Their mechanism is too simplified, and too short to adapt to edges without visibly distorting them, and causing localized oversharpening and angle change on many different blade sizes and shapes. They're only accurate if you had a blade that matched the exact curvature of their arc... The sort of jig being talked about in this thread, is not the same sort most people associate with jig-based sharpening systems.
I've not tried an edge from Sharpchef or Suntravel, nor do I own the jigs they're using... I don't have a dog in this fight. I'm simply someone who loves to cook, and finds sharpening relaxing, and has spent a lot of time on my own trying to do both better, and I really enjoy the tools I use (Knives, stones, cookware, stoves, etc.)... I can see both sides of the fence (At work in a professional kitchen in between shifts or on the fly, creating the most precise edge on a knife simply isn't possible. Short of using an actual steel, I'm not comfortable taking a knife to stone or strop without washing before and after, which adds a layer of inconvenience to the process which never feels practical... At home, or if you're doing this professionally in your workshop, you could deliver more precise edges...).
I also straight shave, and sharpen my own razors... There's a big difference between a knife edge that can scrape-shave arm hair, and an edge that can pass a genuine HHT. I've sharpened edges freehand on knives that I've convinced myself I can comfortably shaved my face with... Then I've sharpened my razor fully on those same stones, and reminded myself that the precision sharpening with the blade riding flat on the spine affords me, puts that edge into an entirely different level. Precision does matter. As a human being, without a mechanism to align the blade, I'm not perfect at it. I'm good enough freehand to put a decent edge on a blade that can shave hair, and cut food, and pass all the standard paper/tissue tests, and shows no major defect under 120X magnification... But there's a lot of room for improvement still between my best, and worst day, and what I could theoretically create with some better alignment.
I have looked at enough microscope images of edges to know what I'm looking at, and whilst it would make even more sense at even higher than 230X (SEM images of edges are really fun to look at.), I can see the point Suntravel's trying to prove... There's some plastic drawing of the steel in the second image that isn't present in the first, and the first has a more consistent tooth profile at the apex. The first doesn't look as keen at that angle, but it's also doubtlessly more stable. Edge-leading vs. edge-trailing deburring, even freehand, does create a different feeling edge... Try it. Approach angle can also change the way a blade feels, and pressure is hugely important. I put the final edge on with only the weight of the blade held between my fingertips, and wish I could do even less; especially in areas the curvature increases, and so does the PSI.
Most people would be beyond thrilled with any edge which was simply deburred properly on the stones (Edge trailing or leading), without actually breaking or wearing it off by cutting into cork/wood/felt, whether or not there was some wire-edge effect... However, if edge science is interesting to you, these images and what information Suntravel and Sharpchef are sharing is quite interesting.
- Steampunk