Stupid question time: wiping down a carbon blade

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Does he live next to a swamp or in sand-flats sinkhole country? Does his house have naturally dehumidifying central AC or damp blasting window units? Is his idea of a 'cheap' towel 35% poly blend, 65%, or pure Save-A-Lot brand plastic garbage? Is he as lazy as me, and what exactly does 'a few' wipes mean? Lot of factors to consider
Miami. Works in a hotel kitchen. So overhead hoods, fryers, boiling water, steam table, etc. Probably uses whatever towels laundry service provides. I wouldn't say lazy, more like "efficient with movement".
Or just lucky? Formed a good patina?
 
For the Midwest US (home user), I get by with the occasional wipe down if using for an extended period. When finished I rinse the blade with hot tap water and dry with a towel. Then I set it on an absorbent dish pad. After a few minutes, I will finish by using the @ian method with a paper towel roll. Then it goes in the block. If the am cutting meat, I will wash the blade with mild soap as well. All of my knives are carbon with reactive sides with the exception of my honesuki, it is white #2 with stainless cladding. No rusting issues and any of them.

I will add that if the knife is not normally used often, it is wiped down with camellia oil. Since I mainly use my Jiro 210 and Maz 180, they hardly ever get the camellia treatment. Seeing nice blues and purples on the Jiro, Maz is coming along too.
 
i think i need more information on how to keep something clean and dry please. none of these methods work

Try this...

1) Thoroughly clean and dry blade
2) Attach edge guard
3) Place knife along with fresh silica gel pack into vacuum seal bag
4) Vacuum seal the bag
5) Place vacuum sealed bag inside metal (SS) container along with another silica gel pack
6) Seal metal container with solder
 
I could not find the button/switch on the knife, do all makers put this button on the knife, or just stainless? or is it one of those recessed buttons you need a paper clip for to reset? or do i hold the 2 buttons on the side at the same time?

It's hidden under the san-mai - you have to unwrap it to find it.
 
It's actually not such a stupid question. It really depends on the (carbon) steel involved.

My Robert Herder is pretty fool proof. If I cut a lemon with it and leave the knife without washing, it will develop black spots but they will go away with a quick scrub. On the other hand, my shirogami #2 Sugimoto is very reactive. I really need to wash and dry it in between simple tasks like cutting onions and then cutting carrots. Otherwise the blade will develop spots that will not go away, plus the steel will colour ingredients like onions.
 
Try this...

1) Thoroughly clean and dry blade
2) Attach edge guard
3) Place knife along with fresh silica gel pack into vacuum seal bag
4) Vacuum seal the bag
5) Place vacuum sealed bag inside metal (SS) container along with another silica gel pack
6) Seal metal container with solder

No, #6 isn't correct, you must TIG weld the seams. Solder is inadequate.
 
I’d recommend skipping the first 5 steps and just putting your sopping wet knife into the small metal container and then soldering it shut. To get rid of the water, you can then just put the whole thing on a burner for a while, and heat it up so the water evaporates. Easy peasy.
 
I’d recommend skipping the first 5 steps and just putting your sopping wet knife into the small metal container and then soldering it shut. To get rid of the water, you can then just put the whole thing on a burner for a while, and heat it up so the water evaporates. Easy peasy.
Just be like Schrodinger. Put knife in box. Release steam. Now it's in both wet and dry, rusting and not rusting, states until you check on it.
 
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