Tang slot

[jmforge]

How do you guy make the tang slot on a wa handle?

 

[Mike Davis]

I have yet to do one, but unless i am mistaken, they drill the main handle larger than the tang, drill 3/4 through the bolster (from the back) and use a drill bit close to but smaller than the tang and file fit. This way the tang has an easy time in the handle yet stays to the dimensions of the tang at the front of the bolster. A good epoxy does the rest.

 

[Darkhoek]

I build the handle by mortizing all parts together. Then I drill two holes in the handle 0,5mm smaller than the tang but for the full length of the tang and use a micro file rasp to perfectly fit the tang in the handle. Takes time but yields a perfect result with minimum void in the handle.

DarKHOeK

 

[Marko Tsourkan]

One way is to split a block, shape the cavity and glue it back together. Another to pre-drill from both ends and use end cap on the rear. And yet another is to deep-drill into the block, and shape a cavity with files, chisels, brooches, whatever comes useful.

M

 

[TB_London]

I use an adaptation of the method proposed by Mike Davis, however I insert a dowel the same diameter as the larger hole with a slot, the width and length of the tang sawn into it. The bolster has a hole drilled most of the way through it to accept this dowel. I will then make a neat slot in the face of the bolster with a small drill and files. Provided your dowel is inserted in a perfectly vertical hole, the whole handle can then be assembled to give a neat joint, test fitted and adjusted.
The handle can then be glued. I will keep everything square to this point, and then shape once the glue is set.
This allows for a very good friction fit without the need for long narrow drills, which are prone to break or steer off in dense woods. I add a drop of epoxy before the final knock in to seal the top of the slot, though this is personal preference. The dowel acts to strengthen the joint between handle and bolster and can help align spacers, it does need to be well aligned though, any steer will appear as an out of square joint.

I can add photos if this is unclear, but after making a few I find this the easiest way

 

[TB_London]

Here are some pics, i accept that this method is not traditional, and is not the best way to make a handle.
This is just my method, that I find to be easy, quick and consistent. And only requires a drill a saw and a block plane. My handles are not in the league of many of the amazing makers on this forum, who constantly amaze me, there are so many inspirational photos I couldn't help but try my hand.

I'd be interested if others make handles in the same way as I haven't seen it done like this before, but I haven't been around as long as a lot of people....

wood marked up

Clamped to drill

Holes drilled, neither go all the way through the wood

Slot cut in dowel

Testing tang for fit

Assembling handle

Glue up

Result

 

[TB_London]

It seems my attempt to apply "hide" to my pics didn't work, is this command available on this forum?
Sorry if this thread takes ages to load now,
Mods:feel free to amend/edit

 

[Eamon Burke]

Whoa. Talk about non-traditional. Can you post pics of the machi-area on the ferrule?

 

[TB_London]

Lol, yeah it's creative problem solving.....

Drilling the slot for the tang

Here's another pic of the machi area on another knife, away from home with work til the weekend so it's a different knife though.....

I leave about 5 mm thickness in the ferrule for the slot, any thinner and I'd worry about it cracking, though if the dowel joint is accurate it is supported and glued, so I may be being over cautious.

This leaves a small amount to be filed for an accurate fit, which for me speeds up the process whilst satisfying my need for an accurate fit. When I tried to drill/ file out a 2.5mm by 70mm recess I broke 2 drill bits putting too much lateral force, and the amount of filing needed lead to me widening the mouth of the slot too much. Total respect to people who do it this way, and if there are any tricks/techniques to that part of it I'm all ears, though I'm guessing it boils down to skill and practice.....

 

[apicius9]

Mine are made like Mike desrcibes it if it is only wood. Whenever I use spacers that are metal or brittle, I make them similar to TB's method. One thing I learned is that preparing the gluing surface well and using a good epoxy make a big difference.

Stefan

 

[ecchef]

Elegant solution to a vexing problem. And it's probably strong as hell!

 

[Marko Tsourkan]

Epoxy is stronger than the wood, so if tolerance is high, you get a very strong handle.

 

[JMJones]

I just finished my first wa handle last week and did it just like London showed. I also burned the tang into the dowel to get a nice tight fit. I think that people who did not start out making japanese style knives tend to struggle with having the traditional style of fit because it can look rough at the point where the tang enters the handle. One thing I have noticed is that makers starting to make Japanese style blades often put a metal spacer or ferril (sp?) so they can fit the tang like a more traditional guard is fit.

 

[jmforge]

That's debatable. BUT, suffice to say that wood ANd epoxy combined are about as strong as you can get for applications like ours.

Epoxy is stronger than the wood, so if tolerance is high, you get a very strong handle.

 

[AnxiousCowboy]

I am trying to rehandle my masamoto gyuto but the tang is too thick to fit in a handle that size I want. All the japanese knives I have now are notched to make the tang smaller right before it fit into the ferrule. What is the best way to slim down the tang without weakening the knife or upsetting geometry too much? I bought the knife without a handle, but I cannot make one that doesn't feel donkey where the tang would fit....

 

[Marko Tsourkan]

I am trying to rehandle my masamoto gyuto but the tang is too thick to fit in a handle that size I want. All the japanese knives I have now are notched to make the tang smaller right before it fit into the ferrule. What is the best way to slim down the tang without weakening the knife or upsetting geometry too much? I bought the knife without a handle, but I cannot make one that doesn't feel donkey where the tang would fit....

The tang on your Masamoto needs to be ground and machi formed. It is best done on a belt grinder, but can be done with files as tangs on Japanese knives are not hardened. I fix machi all the time when re-handling. I use files for that.

 

[AnxiousCowboy]

what grit belt would you recommend?

 

[Lefty]

I agree with marko. I use a 60 to slim down metal. I'd say it's a good place to start.

 

[AnxiousCowboy]

thanks guys, I feel like thats the last piece of info I need to finish this ****** thing, man I'm draggin my ass... lol

 

[Marko Tsourkan]

what grit belt would you recommend?

I grind with 50 and form a machi with files. sometimes it is good to form machi after you fit the handle (but before gluing) as this will assure that machi is flat against the handle.

M

 

[TB_London]

I'd try and slightly round the junction between the tang and the shoulder of the machi slightly, internal 90 degree angles can act as weak points, at least that's my understanding

 

[jmforge]

I'd try and slightly round the junction between the tang and the shoulder of the machi slightly, internal 90 degree angles can act as weak points, at least that's my understanding

That can be an stress riser issue if you harden that area. The impression that I get from being on here a little while is that tradtional Japanese knives generally do not have hardened tangs.

 

[WillC]

I tend to heat the tang up so it is not at all hard at the back, progressively, so it has a good spring temper at the front of the tang and just maybe the first inch of the knife along the spine, of course I make sure the temper is not affected near the edge. I've no idea what would be traditional, but in my head this seems sensible.

 

[PierreRodrigue]

There are no photos associated to this thread, am I the only one who cant see them?

 

[DeepCSweede]

I would like to say maybe it's the pain medication Pierre - but I am drug free right now and I can't see them either.:rofl2:

 

[PierreRodrigue]

 

[TB_London]

Looks like something in Dropbox broke, I'll try and fix it and repost if that would be useful

 

[Pabloz]

Looks like something in Dropbox broke, I'll try and fix it and repost if that would be useful

Yes Please...this one looks really interesting!

 

[Mike Davis]

I am not seeing pics either. I am hoping to see them fixed

 

[chinacats]

Curious if these pics ever got posted, maybe somewhere else?

Cheers,
Chinacats