The next sharpen stone after Shapton 1k

Kitchen Knife Forums

Help Support Kitchen Knife Forums:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

manhthap

Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2024
Messages
20
Reaction score
10
Location
Vietnam
Hi All,

Can you give me some advice for the next sharpening stone (in the same price range as Shapton) after the Shapton Pro 1k? I’m considering the Suehiro 3k.
 
What are you using for your heavy duty thinning and reprofiling?
I use my SG220 quite a lot with friends and family members knives that haven’t got a decent bevel set on them or are way to thick behind the edge.
What types of steels are you planning on sharpening? Some of the stainless I’ve got do better with a less polished edge.
 
Depends on the desired finish and steel type. For more basic steels I like the Chosera 3K, but there will be a multitude of different personal preferences to this question. The Suehiro Ouka/Cerax 3k is well liked by a lot of people. It is a soaker though, so may be a good or bad thing depending on what you like.
 
As always, it depends. Remember that the Shapton 1k is much coarser than the name suggests, around 700. If you like large jumps a real 3k as the Suehiro is a great choice. With steel types that require a careful abrading of the burr all along the progression, as VG-10 or SG2/2, I would suggest a tighter progression and have the Shapton Pro 2k in between.
 
The stone I use most often after SP1000 is the SP2000. The grit difference is wider than the names suggest. (The 1000 "acts" like an 800 - the 2000 "acts" like a 3000 - 4000.) For anything but a slicer the 2000 is fine to finish on IME.
 
I got a rockstar 500 for light thinning and sharpening soft stainless knives after the sp1k ... worked well
 
I have a few stone including the rockstar 1000. I don't really touch it much as I just maintain my knives on a Belgium blue stone. I'm only sharpening white, blue, AS and Chinese cleaver carbon but its so versatile. If I lost my stones it would be the first I'd pick up again.
 
Bạn đang sử dụng gì để làm mỏng và tái cấu trúc nhiệm vụ nặng nề của mình?
Tôi sử dụng SG220 của mình khá nhiều với bạn bè và các thành viên trong gia đình những con dao không có góc xiên đàng hoàng đặt trên chúng hoặc dày ra sau mép.
Những loại thép nào bạn dự định mài? Một số không gỉ tôi đã làm tốt hơn với một cạnh ít bóng bẩy hơn.
My steel is stainless steel ( Misono ux10) and White 2 carbon ( Sakai Ichiji). I'm using stone for sharping. I don't have much experience in repair knife
 
Last edited:
The stone I use most often after SP1000 is the SP2000. The grit difference is wider than the names suggest. (The 1000 "acts" like an 800 - the 2000 "acts" like a 3000 - 4000.) For anything but a slicer the 2000 is fine to finish on IME.
I really appreciate your (and Benuser’s) comments. I initially considered the gap between 1000 and 2000 grit to be small, so I’m thinking of skipping directly to the Suehiro 3k (since Shapton Pro doesn’t offer that grit). Do you believe the Shapton 2k is superior to the Suehiro 3k? Soaking isn’t an issue for me, and my knife steel is Molybdenum Vanadium and White 2.
 
Would a Naniwa Pro 2000 also be a valid choice here, if 1000->2000 is considered a good choice?
 
Hi All,

Can you give me some advice for the next sharpening stone (in the same price range as Shapton) after the Shapton Pro 1k? I’m considering the Suehiro 3k.
I have a Cerax 5000. If there’s a Cerax 3000, it would imo be a great next stone. The 5000 dishes quickly but provides great feedback. It’s a confidence-building kind of stone.
 
I really appreciate your (and Benuser’s) comments. I initially considered the gap between 1000 and 2000 grit to be small, so I’m thinking of skipping directly to the Suehiro 3k (since Shapton Pro doesn’t offer that grit). Do you believe the Shapton 2k is superior to the Suehiro 3k? Soaking isn’t an issue for me, and my knife steel is Molybdenum Vanadium and White 2.
I find the gap between 700 and 3k a bit large, unless you manage to completely deburr on the first one, which isn't easy. Your 3k edge may suffer from the 700 burr remnants.
 
I really appreciate your (and Benuser’s) comments. I initially considered the gap between 1000 and 2000 grit to be small, so I’m thinking of skipping directly to the Suehiro 3k (since Shapton Pro doesn’t offer that grit). Do you believe the Shapton 2k is superior to the Suehiro 3k? Soaking isn’t an issue for me, and my knife steel is Molybdenum Vanadium and White 2.

I've not found any love with Suehiro stones, not to say you won't either. I like the SP1000, SP2000 for a lot of knives. Another pair I like is the SP1000 and SG4000 - especially with stainless, friend's Shun and Shun Lite. For my "good" carbon I prefer soakers and may raise the initial burr with the SP1000 then move to the G2K, G4K.
 
Would a Naniwa Pro 2000 also be a valid choice here, if 1000->2000 is considered a good choice?
I love it dearly, but there's a little problem when deburring. The stone starts quite aggressive, the abrasives get smoother and the final result is in the 3k-range. So far so good. But when deburring you want to start with a clean stone again. There the aggressive nature doesn't help: you do abrade a burr, but are likely to raise a new one as well. Only solution were to raise a bit of mud with a nagura and add some more water.
With the SP2k you won't have these troubles.
 
If you want a stone for repairs, King 300 is a great stone to have and a great next stone for your collection, as 1000 grit stone is a fine grit to finish on. If you want a slightly finer edge, I would go for Naniwa Aotoishi 2k, known as the Green Brick of Joy. It leaves a nice finish based on the amount of slurry you have and pressure you use. It will also probably last you the rest of your life considering how big it is.
 
Back
Top