What would be the next stone I should look into getting, and what after that?
HTH!a poster that I thought might be helpful for newbies to get oriented and decide on next steps in their sharpening gearhead journey.
My steel is stainless steel ( Misono ux10) and White 2 carbon ( Sakai Ichiji). I'm using stone for sharping. I don't have much experience in repair knifeBạn đang sử dụng gì để làm mỏng và tái cấu trúc nhiệm vụ nặng nề của mình?
Tôi sử dụng SG220 của mình khá nhiều với bạn bè và các thành viên trong gia đình những con dao không có góc xiên đàng hoàng đặt trên chúng hoặc dày ra sau mép.
Những loại thép nào bạn dự định mài? Một số không gỉ tôi đã làm tốt hơn với một cạnh ít bóng bẩy hơn.
I really appreciate your (and Benuser’s) comments. I initially considered the gap between 1000 and 2000 grit to be small, so I’m thinking of skipping directly to the Suehiro 3k (since Shapton Pro doesn’t offer that grit). Do you believe the Shapton 2k is superior to the Suehiro 3k? Soaking isn’t an issue for me, and my knife steel is Molybdenum Vanadium and White 2.The stone I use most often after SP1000 is the SP2000. The grit difference is wider than the names suggest. (The 1000 "acts" like an 800 - the 2000 "acts" like a 3000 - 4000.) For anything but a slicer the 2000 is fine to finish on IME.
I have a Cerax 5000. If there’s a Cerax 3000, it would imo be a great next stone. The 5000 dishes quickly but provides great feedback. It’s a confidence-building kind of stone.Hi All,
Can you give me some advice for the next sharpening stone (in the same price range as Shapton) after the Shapton Pro 1k? I’m considering the Suehiro 3k.
I find the gap between 700 and 3k a bit large, unless you manage to completely deburr on the first one, which isn't easy. Your 3k edge may suffer from the 700 burr remnants.I really appreciate your (and Benuser’s) comments. I initially considered the gap between 1000 and 2000 grit to be small, so I’m thinking of skipping directly to the Suehiro 3k (since Shapton Pro doesn’t offer that grit). Do you believe the Shapton 2k is superior to the Suehiro 3k? Soaking isn’t an issue for me, and my knife steel is Molybdenum Vanadium and White 2.
I really appreciate your (and Benuser’s) comments. I initially considered the gap between 1000 and 2000 grit to be small, so I’m thinking of skipping directly to the Suehiro 3k (since Shapton Pro doesn’t offer that grit). Do you believe the Shapton 2k is superior to the Suehiro 3k? Soaking isn’t an issue for me, and my knife steel is Molybdenum Vanadium and White 2.
I love it dearly, but there's a little problem when deburring. The stone starts quite aggressive, the abrasives get smoother and the final result is in the 3k-range. So far so good. But when deburring you want to start with a clean stone again. There the aggressive nature doesn't help: you do abrade a burr, but are likely to raise a new one as well. Only solution were to raise a bit of mud with a nagura and add some more water.Would a Naniwa Pro 2000 also be a valid choice here, if 1000->2000 is considered a good choice?
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