The sharpest you've ever got (or your ideal progression)

[Marcelo Amaral]

It all depends on which kind of edge one wants.

To set the edge i'm using a Numata, usually followed by a rougher Ikarashi.

To finish, it could be a very nice Ikarashi bought here at KKF (thanks, Todd!) or an Aizu. I also like the finish from a Tsushima (around 3-4k).

For a toothless edge, the previous progression is usually followed by an Ohira Renge Suita or a Maruoyama Suita - Ohira Karasu - Ohira Aorenge Suita.

 

[panda]

heat treated crayons

 

[KingShapton]

What have you made to it ? What is the result ?
BTW my Spyderco UF is finer than my sintered ruby

Is your sintered ruby in its original condition?

I conditioned both the Spydero and the Ruby with fine sil-carbide powder and fine sandpaper (2000 grit Fepa). Both have become ultra-fine.

The ruby makes a slightly more aggressive edge.

 

[cotedupy]

Thank you everyone for the discussion and insights here... as you can probably tell it's something I find geekily interesting... Keep going!

 

[Bolek]

Is your sintered ruby in its original condition?

I conditioned both the Spydero and the Ruby with fine sil-carbide powder and fine sandpaper (2000 grit Fepa). Both have become ultra-fine.

The ruby makes a slightly more aggressive edge.

Both my Spyderos (M, F and UF) and the Ruby are in their original condition. The ruby is 3k to 4k and Spyderco UF is finer.

 

[DavidPF]

(... God knows what it is that I've got in the box that's 'Owned by the Czech Republic'. But rest assured I shall return it to them as soon as international travel becomes easier again.)

Now that's dedication to recycling! (I can just see the image, this serious guy at the airport clumsily dragging a large rattling clinking box)

 

[KingShapton]

Both my Spyderos (M, F and UF) and the Ruby are in their original condition. The ruby is 3k to 4k and Spyderco UF is finer.

You can get it much finer. Whether you have to do that is another issue. I was curious and tried it, that's all.

I think the Sinter Ruby benefited the most from it. You can decide how far you condition it. Start with loose Sil-carbide powder # 220 Fepa, try out how you like the surface, continue with some # 400 Sil-carbide powder, try it out and so on ... Leave one page in its original state as a reference for comparison.

But, like I said, it's just an experiment.

 

[Bolek]

What if I directly go to fine sandpaper #2400 (the finer I have) ?

 

[KingShapton]

What if I directly go to fine sandpaper #2400 (the finer I have) ?

Then it will just take a lot longer until the surface is conditioned ...

 

[Bolek]

Thanks.
I do not have Sil-carbide powder and do not want in my appartment (to much mess), but I have an almost unlimited acces to ligtly worn 60, 120, 400, 600, 1000 and 2400 grit sandpaper. What progression do you suggest ?

 

[KO88]

Chosera 1k -> Chosera 3 -> Natsuya (hard and finer than usual) ; planning to put big tsushima in progresion.
If I d be looking for refined edge I d put hideriyama suita or shobudani suita and Asagi.

Didnt tryed much yet but I think that if I need quickly "tomato slayer" edge Practical Sharpening Vitrified Dimoand 3k will be the killer...

 

[KingShapton]

Thanks.
I do not have Sil-carbide powder and do not want in my appartment (to much mess), but I have an almost unlimited acces to ligtly worn 60, 120, 400, 600, 1000 and 2400 grit sandpaper. What progression do you suggest ?

I would try starting with # 120, then # 400, and so on. And after every grit try the surface once to check how fine the stone has become.

You just have to refine / condition the surface. It's not about removing something great from the stone. Just try it out ...

 

[Blank Blades.]

My "sharpest" are definitely on my naturals. For the best toothy edge I use my aoto. For the refined edge, my asagi. And for somewhere in between my suita. I haven't really bothered try my uchi on edges.