Thinking about doing a 1k shootout.

Find deals on amazon
Kitchen Knife Forums

Help Support Kitchen Knife Forums:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
For this test I chamfered some pieces of talonite (Cr/Co superalloy).
Chamfered a cutoff steel for a lathe (unknown HSS, correctly hardened).
Then I went on to thinning and sharpening a Kurosaki in SS/R2 and an Akifusa in SRS-15.

I saw no real difference on the talonite, maybe the kunsuto/hibiki/king were slightly slower.

On the HSS cutoff steel I think the shapton pro and the chosera was the fastest. The hyper and glass were very fast too, no big difference really.

Is there a winner stone here? Not really. They are all quite different though.


On rs/srs-15:

Kunsuto
Feels a bit rough.
Not the fastest, medium speed.
So so contrast.

kunsutoSS.JPG


-------------------------

Chosera
Feels quite smooth but effective. Not super smooth though.
Fast.
Quite good contrast.
Good polish on edge.

choseraSS.JPG


-------------------------

Hibiki
Feels very smooth and refined.
Medium/low speed.
No contrast at all.
Good polish on edge.
This stone is probably finer than 1k.

No pic here. Nothing to see!

------------------------

Hyper standard
Smooth and nice, maybe mixed with bit gritty feeling.
Seems quite fast.
Quite dark contrast. But with silver scratches just like on carbon.

hyperSS.JPG


---------------------------

Shapton pro
Feels rough/very rough but effective.
Very fast comparatively.
Light gray contrast, very consistent finish, similar to chosera.

shapton proSS.JPG


---------------------------

Glass
Feels smoother than the pro but not as smooth as the hibiki.
Cuts about as fast as the pro.
Could produce same contrast as pro but could also completely remove it I found. Very hard to get repeatable results.
Here you can see how it can look. 1 side quite dark and next to it contrast gets removed.

glassSS.JPG
 
Interesting thread, the scratches on the king hyper cladding are very noticible in your pics
but it looks like a good stone regardless...question: do these come out with a 3k? or is there
a need to mess about more complext ways (for those who care)...
 
I dont have any softer type of 3k's but I did test this with the 4k kitayama. And yes they did disappear. But I also lost some contrast doing this. So I'd say its possible.
 
Did you try giving the hyper a proper lapping to see if it would make it less streaky? I don't own the stone, and please do correct me if I'm wrong, but I seem to recall some people having this issue, and that a good lapping helped.
 
Thanks for taking the time to do a test like this!
For what it's worth, my standard King Hyper was a real pain to open up. I think I spent about half an hour with my Atoma before I had gotten through the "crust". Never experienced this with any other stone. After that it felt much better. I'm not sure, but it could explain some of the scratching like mikaelsan mentioned.
I actually greatly prefer the softer Hyper, both in feel and speed. Also, much easier and faster to flatten.
 
I have now had the jns 1k since july or so. I have done a lot with it to test it. to see if its any better than any of the other 1k's i already had.
To be honest, for me its a specialized stone. Its a soaker and therefore takes several days to dry out. Definitely nothing I bring out to just do 1 slightly chipped edge.

Ok.
Very grabby feeling somehow. Not gritty though
ultra hard feeling. hardest stone except spydercos I think of the ones i have tried.
Dish very slow, if ever..
Its wide and thick.
Soaker, soaks faster than the king though. And dries faster too.
Very fast stone on all steels.
Removes all contrast on all clad knives. Both SS and iron clad.
Its impossible to break it so you can push down really really heavy to hog some steel. Works faster than a typical 1k then.
Release no abrasive, or next to nothing at least.

Whats it good for?
Well imo its good for when you know you will be using a flat/hard 1k for an entire day. As a flat reference or mid grit in between other stones and so on.
Since its stays flat and wear so slow its perfect for this. You might be using a 220 and the 1k and then a 4k or something, you can check your work off the 220 on this. And see when its time to put the 220 away. and when its time to flatten the 220 and so on. Its also good for heavy material removal on rusty work knives like the Hultafors SS mora here that I sharpened on machines and sandpaper for several years. It was my prying bar.

jns1.JPG


jns2.JPG


jns3.JPG
 
Edit: Referring to the JNS. THANKs!

Very interesting write up. I've been eyeing this stone a long time, finally bought it and it is in a box in my basement. Very sad on my part.
So my one line interpretation of your summary is that is a very good stone, but has inferior tactile feedback?
 
Last edited:
the jns??

its a ultra hard and slow wearing but still fast acting somehow.
needs soaking unfortunately.
takes ages to dry.

its a good stone for when you need to use a 1k for an entire day or so off and on imo. otherwise the naniwa/shappro/glass are better imo. since these dry fast. and you can put them away.

its good at removing metal yet staying flat. but so is the nanipro800 and the glass1k. and the shappro. for example. also this one removes all contrast.

its just another good 1k. if i were to choose 1 single 1k this would not be it. but as no3 or so. why not. the king is also another thick soaker but it creates contrast, and slurries. but wears faster. same speed.
the hibiki is very similar to this. but the hibiki felt very nice and smooth compared to this. also removed all contrast. also ultra hard. and slow wearing. also a soaker. the hibiki could load up while the jns never loads up, well it does but it still keeps on cutting like new. however all soakers load up very little if any generally.
 
Nice comparison, especially doing carbon and stainless.
I haven't seen the scratching you saw with your hyper, I agree it needs a very long soak and days to dry though. Still my favorite starting stone but not great if you don't want to wait.
 
my king might be a dud but i have read others having the same problem. so i think its like a 50/50 problem.

yeah i felt it was necessary to do both SS/SS and carbon/iron.

I sold my my jns today to my neighbor. and i could just as well have sold the king. but i felt the jns was the most foolproof stone. its indestructable.
i'm now down to only 4, 1k stones. shappro/glass/nanipro/king. those are my keepers. but if you dont try stuff yourself you will never know...

nanipro 1k i gave to my brother, kunsuto sold, jns sold, missarka 800 given away. probably forgetting some other ones too. it is what it is.

hope you liked the test.
 
PappaG said:
Edit: Referring to the JNS. THANKs!

Very interesting write up. I've been eyeing this stone a long time, finally bought it and it is in a box in my basement. Very sad on my part.
So my one line interpretation of your summary is that is a very good stone, but has inferior tactile feedback?
Click to expand...
How do you like the stone?
 
regarding tactile feedback of the jns. its pretty much non existant. but so were almost all the other ones too. Almost no 1k stones feel particulary good imo.

Maybe the chosera has a bit of it and then the king. but thats it.

But it doesn't really matter imo. the 1k stones are the "coarse" stones for the japanese knives. its the stone you put on basic bevels, minor thinning, minor chip repair on so on with. so what you really want its the stone just abrading steel. with as little as possible extra fuzz required from the user.

all these stones are about the same speed. on all types of materials. talonite/ss/carbon/soft ss/iron. there is basically no difference. they just feel slightly different (and some are soakers), and wear/dish faster or slower. but not enough to get one over the other if you are just getting 1 1k stone.

probably the best overall stone in the lineup is the shapton glass. or the shapton pro. since the shapton pro is thicker. so it better bang/buck ratio. if you just want to abrade steel that is. the glass feels a bit creamier but its very minor.

the chosera is the only stone that makes good contrast between jigane/hagane (no streaks and consistent finish) without any whatsoever user skill though, and its super duper repeatable and basically if you rub steel long enough on it (which is not very long at all) you will get the same result each and every time. but its known to crack. and mine is starting to crack too. and i use it as a s&g stone only.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top