Thinning Maboroshi

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I was trying to make Maboroshi 240 gyuto a bit nicer and casually tried bevels with stone to see how it was. I noticed quickly that shinogi got wonkier, I panicked and soon I was "correcting" it with SG #120 and things escalated to most serious thinning project I had done and in the end almost lost my sleep last night 😁. I stopped and checked that spine is straght. Then checked sides with credit card and there was serious low spot (red marking near the tip), smaller toward the heel (another red) and two high spots (blue).

I like thin tip and was planning to thin and raise shinogi in the future after I get more confidence with cheaper knives. I had horrible wonky shinogi so I calmed down and planned to raise it by thinning the tip area and hoped to even it to low spot (black line). I focused thinning with SG#120 mainly at the first blue marking from the tip. Today after workday I finished it with SG#120 and got it pretty even. I didn't want to even it by grinding aimlessly the whole face because I want to preserve Maboroshi rustic hammered style as much as I can. At the end I did light sanding at the low spots with #120 sandpaper, raised the shinogi a little bit more and blended bit more. Next was quick swipe with #400 and #1000 paper.

I planned to do next:
1. Tip half is basically as it should be.
2. Do some thinning to heel half, but no need to raise shinogi. I like more workhorse grind at the heel.
3. Blend the angles from heavy thinning with #320 and #1000 stones.
4. Put nice kasumi with JNS Red Aoto Matukusuyama.
5. Do the same to other side.

What do you think? Is this overthinned and lost Maboroshi soul? What would you add to this or what I did wrong? Is it possible to correct shinogi more and should I try or let it be as it is? Any advice for fininshing this and future thinning projects?

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This looks like a great run at TF’s legendary bevels. If the material removal matches the grind marks on the tip side, I think it’s an big improvement. I don’t notice much distal taper with his gyuto so getting the tip thinner is nice.

I wouldn’t bother trying to get to the shinogi in the low spots, that’ll get figured out in future projects.

Great work!
 
Shinogi reflects relationship between the blade face and the wide bevel. If the blade face is really uneven .. . Well the shinogi is going to be uneven, if the wide bevel is even and consistent. If the blade face is uneven, then to have consistent shinogi the wide bevel has to be uneven too . .

Anyway! The consistency of wide bevel is what you can change and should focus on, don't mind the shinogi too much, it does what it wants. These knives aren't constricted to have very even shinogi anyhow (or consistency in general...)
 
Shinogi reflects relationship between the blade face and the wide bevel. If the blade face is really uneven .. . Well the shinogi is going to be uneven, if the wide bevel is even and consistent. If the blade face is uneven, then to have consistent shinogi the wide bevel has to be uneven too . .

Anyway! The consistency of wide bevel is what you can change and should focus on, don't mind the shinogi too much, it does what it wants. These knives aren't constricted to have very even shinogi anyhow (or consistency in general...)
That's exactly right. I noticed how much discussion there is about wavy shinogis especially at thinning kurouchi knives. Maboroshi is much more forgiving as there isn't need to crisp shinogi due to rustic tsuchime finish.

The shinogi turned quickly really wavy (about red line), green line is about original. There was already hints of the uneven blade face as the shinogi wasn't straight originally. In this case the low spot was near the tip and will even out and raise shinogi if you grind distal taper to tip. In the middle section it would be impossible to straighten with stones and my rather beginner skills. Next time I'll analyze the blade much closely before start messing with primary bevels. At least I know better, what's coming, where to focus and what to avoid.


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Just quick try of the final finish I'll plan to put. Mirror polished hagane and restrained kasumi on jigane. Now the hagane really quickly put on SG#3000 and its still scratchy as hell. Dark kasumi up to the wavy shinogi didn't seem nice so I'll plan to put restrained kasumi to highlight hagane and jigane.

I'll have to return back thinning with #120 as there is still high spot at the tip and I'm not satisfied for distal taper. Also heel part need some thinning and there is some original grinding marks left at the heel. But this is fun to practice techniques and train my muscle memory at grinding and polishing :D

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Just quick try of the final finish I'll plan to put. Mirror polished hagane and restrained kasumi on jigane. Now the hagane really quickly put on SG#3000 and its still scratchy as hell. Dark kasumi up to the wavy shinogi didn't seem nice so I'll plan to put restrained kasumi to highlight hagane and jigane.

I'll have to return back thinning with #120 as there is still high spot at the tip and I'm not satisfied for distal taper. Also heel part need some thinning and there is some original grinding marks left at the heel. But this is fun to practice techniques and train my muscle memory at grinding and polishing :D

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It really looks good. Don't overdo it and use it for what it's made. It's a tool. The low spots will fade with every sharpening session. For more mirror like finish get a Naniwa Super 3k. Or a 5K after that shapton. They are best for that. Don't think to get a TF to perfect condition. Use it and enjoy the steel. So great cutters.
 
It really looks good. Don't overdo it and use it for what it's made. It's a tool. The low spots will fade with every sharpening session. For more mirror like finish get a Naniwa Super 3k. Or a 5K after that shapton. They are best for that. Don't think to get a TF to perfect condition. Use it and enjoy the steel. So great cutters.
Thanks for really nice feedback. I was surprised how quickly I got quite nice mirror, took about 15 mins. Kasumi was also quick with uchigumori powder and micromesh pad, took about 5 mins.

I got nice final results with SG#3000, SG#6000 (soft, gray stone) and did final touch up with Naniwa tear drop slip stones #6000 and #10000.

I'll definitely put Maboroshi to use. This is purely for enjoyment for learning new techniques and now I'm confident that I can refinish knives quickly and get even better than a new (at price range around 200-500€). Maboroshi White 1 steel is really good, so I'm really excited to put it in use and sharpen it.
 
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