"touching up a 58 Rockwell cleaver"

[r0bz]

I do it like the second video.

But I dont think it does matter, the result is the same.

In movies and such you see cooks make a sport out of it to steel as fast as possible.
I think its more important to try to hit the same angle as you did on you stone.
Therefor use the steel very very slowly. Its so easy to overangle and create an huge new (micro)bevel.
Also, a few passes per side should do the trick. If you need more, thern you are just forcing a new bevel on the edge, which of coarse makes it sharp again. But you have to grind that out the next time you sharpen on the stones.

I don't like doing it towards my hand therefore I do it like the 1st vid
I do it slowly as well and with a light touch and always focus on the angle to not use too high of an angle

 

[r0bz]

@Kawa do you use the steel with the knife towards your hand? or do you use it away from your hand?
videos are so it will be clear what i am asking

steeling away from hand


steeling towards hand


i do it away from my hand i don't like it the other way

what about you @Benuser do you use the steel like in the first video or like the second ?

 

[Benuser]

I have a Dickoron Polish as well and found that it works well with carbon Sabs provided it's being used in time — as with all fine rods: before you notice any diminishing performance.
The advantage is exactly in not doing much. That said, I wouldn't use any honing after use of the blade, but rather prior to it. There's some self-restoring taking place.

NOS carbon Sab I use the Dickoron Polish with. Backbevels are strongly convexed. Secundary bevels hardly visible, maintained with the Dickoron Polish. If any damage has occurred, a few strokes with Belgian Blue, a Shapton Pro 12k, whatever. The Dickoron Polish, although perfectly smooth, delivers a surprising good bite. No tomato troubles.

 

[r0bz]

View attachment 201707View attachment 201708

View attachment 201711NOS carbon Sab I use the Dickoron Polish with. Backbevels are strongly convexed. Secundary bevels hardly visible, maintained with the Dickoron Polish. If any damage has occurred, a few strokes with Belgian Blue, a Shapton Pro 12k, whatever. The Dickoron Polish, although perfectly smooth, delivers a surprising good bite. No tomato troubles.

what about you @Benuser do you use the steel like in the first video or like the second ? towards your hand or away ?
steeling away from hand


steeling towards hand

 

[r0bz]

I do it like the second video.

But I dont think it does matter, the result is the same.

In movies and such you see cooks make a sport out of it to steel as fast as possible.
I think its more important to try to hit the same angle as you did on you stone.
Therefor use the steel very very slowly. Its so easy to overangle and create an huge new (micro)bevel.
Also, a few passes per side should do the trick. If you need more, thern you are just forcing a new bevel on the edge, which of coarse makes it sharp again. But you have to grind that out the next time you sharpen on the stones.

@Kawa do you have any tips doing it your way like in the 2 video
how do you not hit the guard and not be afraid for your hand?
do you do this kind of arched motion ?

 

[stringer]

Sometimes the knife hits the guard. This is one that's been in my kit for more than 15 years. I don't think I've ever got my hand. Although I did impale my index finger once on the return stroke while steeling a long skinny scimitar. Went in through the pad of my finger tip and was poking through the nail. The worst was when I pulled it out and I could feel the knife sliding along the bone just like when you fillet a salmon.

 

[Kawa]

@Kawa do you have any tips doing it your way like in the 2 video
how do you not hit the guard and not be afraid for your hand?
do you do this kind of arched motion ?

The goal is not using the whole steel. The goal is hitting the whole knife.
Like in this video, you see the guy does a kind of circular movement with his arm instead of going fully up-down with the knive on the steel.

Plus, when you do it slowly (very slowly), you wont hit the guard.

@stringer is in a pro-kitchen. He probably steels as much in a shift as I steel in my life. And I bet he does it naturally and a lot faster, like a second nature.
Ofcourse you hit the guard once in a while. Thats why there is a guard.

But don't focus on changing your way of steeling.
All ways are good, non will give you a better result then the other.

 

[r0bz]

But don't focus on changing your way of steeling.

it is not possible to steel like I was doing away from the hand with a tall cleaver I have to change to the traditional method like you are doing

 

[Kawa]

Yes, therefor you need that kind of circular motion with your arm/wrist.
I can't explain better then that in English.

Some might understand what I mean and will be able to explain better.