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I follow that. That’s how I eventually settled on this hinoki boardView attachment 363999 One piece (no glue), nice thickness, decent price. But not huge.
If it’s still there, Michael @ knifejapan has an interesting article about the subject on his site.
I very much like these single piece cutting boards, I'm hoping I can get some sections wide enough from one of the downed birches to replace the two under counter boards in the kitchen.
 
I follow that. That’s how I eventually settled on this hinoki boardView attachment 363999 One piece (no glue), nice thickness, decent price. But not huge.
If it’s still there, Michael @ knifejapan has an interesting article about the subject on his site.
I use the one piece boards from Tosa Ryu made in Kochi. They're 3cm thick but small, which I prefer to a big, heavy board.
I also like that they don't require oiling so you can wash with soap.
I use a board scraper to keep them smooth.
IMG_4696.jpeg

They also make thinner, cheaper, glued boards so you have to be sure to buy their "ultimate" or "red label" which cost $105 and $90 for the two sizes.
 
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When picking most fruits my nose still works well unlike my eyes & ears that have lessened with age.

Popcorn can be cheap. Have one of those hand crank cheaply made but works well, buy big bags of skinny popcorn from Costco when goes on sale. Watching streaming stuff on TV some always ends up on the floor.

My hands are still steady so can still paint small figures with tiny brushes in model making. Intricate detail with airbrush on aircraft models. Age don't give up keep moving or creating even if not as good when younger. Just to stick around to see what happens next on this spinning Earth eliptical orbit around the Sun.
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it is certainly not default for me.
as everyone above attests: it is a great booster for when you want the surface of something to cook/brown.
sure, it makes the oven more evenly heated, but also hits the outside of the food much harder and thus cooks the whole thing less evenly.
sometimes this is an advantage, sometimes not.
sometimes i crisp things up with a searzall afterwards instead, if needed.
sometimes i run convection with the vessel used in a water bath.
it is all good. but not default, for me.

.

couldn't you reduce the temp though if stuff's cooking too fast with convection? i guess it doesn't matter if you're not getting uneven cooking without it, but i'm just musing.

Just adding to this part of the convo that most convection oven automatically use the fan in preheating (or have some quick preheat mode using it) so that advantage is always present even when using a regular bake/broil.

Also most oven will convert to -25*F or have their default starting point 25*F lower when using Convect Bake.

Convect Roast is probably the most useful function with convection, either to get some quick searing on a big piece of meat directly in the oven, or finish a chicken or baked potatoes to a crisper skin, pizza, roast vedgies, or improvising an Air Fryer in there. It alternates bottom and broil elements with the use of the fan. Useful for a final boost as well in many applications.

Convect Bake is from pretty useless generally to most undesirable, as already mentionned, with stuff made from eggs. It doesn’t add anything much to anything you’d do with a simple bake.

Convect Broil… well I guess if you have a very large surface to broil like the biggest lasagna pan or something it can be of some help but I find a regular broil and best grill placement to just work as well. However if you have a presentation with ridges or specific texture on the surface and just want to brown those ridges fast without actually broiling the whole surface it’s pretty useful. The air works much faster than the actual element in itself and what always get caught first is anything that sticks out obviously.

Convection doesn’t make a better cook, but I prefer having it than not.
 
it has seriously never occurred to me to not use convection in an oven that has it.

i was watching some of apron's baking vids and noticed that he or she does not seem to have the oven fan on. why would anyone do that? it changes the temps and/or times because it increases heat xfer rate (a wash if you are unconcerned with time), but doesn't convection cook stuff a bit more evenly? why not always use it unless the air current disturbs something super fragile?

do any of you guys not use convection by default?

Convection is good for most things except pastry, or anytime you need the heat to penetrate gently and evenly throughout while minimizing change (e.g drying and/or excess browning) to the exterior.

I also skip convection for long, slow roasts, e.g. brisket, pork belly, etc. Those usually get covered for most of the cooking anyway though.
 
I use the one piece boards from Tosa Ryu made in Kochi. They're 3cm thick but small, which I prefer to a big, heavy board.
I also like that they don't require oiling so you can wash with soap.
I use a board scraper to keep them smooth.
View attachment 364092
They also make thinner, cheaper, glued boards so you have to be sure to buy their "ultimate" or "red label" which cost $105 and $90 for the two sizes.

Those one-piece boards look great but have a serious risk of warping. Back when I was doing woodworking I think the rule of thumb was any flat-sawn solid board wider than 4-6" was risky and needed to be secured in some form to keep flat.

Looks like the board pictured already has some checking (cracks at the endgrain side) indicating internal stress building up. Keep it well-oiled especially during the shoulder seasons to reduce the risk.
 
Those one-piece boards look great but have a serious risk of warping. Back when I was doing woodworking I think the rule of thumb was any flat-sawn solid board wider than 4-6" was risky and needed to be secured in some form to keep flat.

Looks like the board pictured already has some checking (cracks at the endgrain side) indicating internal stress building up. Keep it well-oiled especially during the shoulder seasons to reduce the risk.
Any tips on how to straighten it once some warping has occured?

I hase a very similar board and treated it very gently, or so I thought. Oiled it well and always wetted it lightly on both sides before use. Then a rinse and air dry afterwards.

However it sitll warped fairly quickly.

I'm wondering if pressing it while wet might help? Or am I hosed?
 
Any tips on how to straighten it once some warping has occured?

I hase a very similar board and treated it very gently, or so I thought. Oiled it well and always wetted it lightly on both sides before use. Then a rinse and air dry afterwards.

However it sitll warped fairly quickly.

I'm wondering if pressing it while wet might help? Or am I hosed?

I'm not sure there's a simple way to salvage it once warping has occurred, unfortunately.
 
Any tips on how to straighten it once some warping has occured?

I hase a very similar board and treated it very gently, or so I thought. Oiled it well and always wetted it lightly on both sides before use. Then a rinse and air dry afterwards.

However it sitll warped fairly quickly.

I'm wondering if pressing it while wet might help? Or am I hosed?
Wet the inside of the U of the warp, leaving the other side dry. This may or may not work, depending on how dry or moist your board is to begin with.
 
Right, like it was said above: the only way to actually do it is by removing the material that make up the high spots, yo can try and warp it in the opposite direction, but that's only going to hold until you get it wet (enough) again and it'll warp back. A nice, well sharpened, hand plane makes relatively short work of it.
 
Those one-piece boards look great but have a serious risk of warping. Back when I was doing woodworking I think the rule of thumb was any flat-sawn solid board wider than 4-6" was risky and needed to be secured in some form to keep flat.

Looks like the board pictured already has some checking (cracks at the endgrain side) indicating internal stress building up. Keep it well-oiled especially during the shoulder seasons to reduce the risk.
The risk is real that a one-piece board might warp. I haven’t yet figured out how to compare that to the risk of eating cured Titebond…
 
Most damasteel patterns are hideous and feel like a waste of the technology. If you have the tech to essentially turn any pattern into steel whyyyy do 75% of them repeat every half inch, they just look like a mess.

It’s not like they CAN’T make an ordered, long pattern like a feather or any other number of ridiculous sprint run mosaics, they have and it looks fantastic but for some reason they insist on only producing this stuff that looks like what you’d find on a knife set on Aliexpress.

It feels particular insulting seeing some great makers at the invitational and they’re being given patterns inferior to what damasteel COULD produce. It’s like holding a forged in fire competition and insisting on withholding hammers and only letting the smiths hammer the red hot bar against the anvil to see what they can create out of a bad circumstance.
 
Most damasteel patterns are hideous and feel like a waste of the technology. If you have the tech to essentially turn any pattern into steel whyyyy do 75% of them repeat every half inch, they just look like a mess.

It’s not like they CAN’T make an ordered, long pattern like a feather or any other number of ridiculous sprint run mosaics, they have and it looks fantastic but for some reason they insist on only producing this stuff that looks like what you’d find on a knife set on Aliexpress.

It feels particular insulting seeing some great makers at the invitational and they’re being given patterns inferior to what damasteel COULD produce. It’s like holding a forged in fire competition and insisting on withholding hammers and only letting the smiths hammer the red hot bar against the anvil to see what they can create out of a bad circumstance.
Preach, brother
 
Most damasteel patterns are hideous and feel like a waste of the technology. If you have the tech to essentially turn any pattern into steel whyyyy do 75% of them repeat every half inch, they just look like a mess.

It’s not like they CAN’T make an ordered, long pattern like a feather or any other number of ridiculous sprint run mosaics, they have and it looks fantastic but for some reason they insist on only producing this stuff that looks like what you’d find on a knife set on Aliexpress.

It feels particular insulting seeing some great makers at the invitational and they’re being given patterns inferior to what damasteel COULD produce. It’s like holding a forged in fire competition and insisting on withholding hammers and only letting the smiths hammer the red hot bar against the anvil to see what they can create out of a bad circumstance.
100% I've thought the exact same for a long time! The patterns really aren't anything special, especially given the cost of the material. If I'm going to pay out 1.5k or more for a damasteel it needs to be unique and eye-catching. I feel like all their patterns have been done by smiths on the regular already.
 

That'll work for the summer and then in winter it'll warp back the other way.

The permanent fix is to cut the board up into strips, flip over alternating ones, then glue it back up. But then you end up with a regular side-grain board which.... well there's a reason they're made that way to begin with.
 
That'll work for the summer and then in winter it'll warp back the other way.

The permanent fix is to cut the board up into strips, flip over alternating ones, then glue it back up. But then you end up with a regular side-grain board which.... well there's a reason they're made that way to begin with.
Or just spend the money on a quality end grain board. Oh, i forgot this was unpopular opinions.
 
Or just spend the money on a quality end grain board. Oh, i forgot this was unpopular opinions.


Done that, I did a batch of caramelized onions without realizing it had been a minute since I oiled it. Apparently 10 lbs of onions is more powerful than 3 pounds of lemons and a half pound of salt applied over 4 days and now it needs to be burnt 😭🤣
 
damasteel looks amazing. Bjorkmans twist, hakkapella, thor, vinland, gysinge, rose...

the only bad ones are some of the newer ones, and the older ones like aegir and ladder...
 
I had my reasons for picking Lenox Lewis over Tyson. Bet the line & my friends we split the cost of pay per view
They all took Tyson. I looked at % of picks on this one 68% picked Tyson ro get KO or TKO. He is 58 years old.
 
Yeah, it's a bit of a mess down here. We call bacon as Americans know it 'streaky bacon' and it's popular, but we also have 'middle bacon', 'middle eye bacon', 'rindless eye bacon', 'shoulder bacon', and 'rasher bacon'. And there are 'Danish' variants of some of those (I have no idea what makes it Danish). I might have missed some.
And don't forget, Mike King destroyed the pork industry in NZ so the majority of NZ bacon is made of pork from Spain, Denmark etc.
 
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