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Single bevel Kiridashi are awesome for decorative carving of watermelon & other smooth skin melons.

People from non eastern countries under appreciate single bevel knives.
 
It makes sense that they’re 50% more expensive when you factor in how difficult that work is. When right-handed smiths forge left-handed single bevel knives, they essentially mirror the process of creating a right-handed knife. This necessitates the use of their non-dominant hand (the left hand) more intensively during the forging process. Although this might seem counterintuitive at first, it's an adaptation borne out of necessity to accommodate left-handed users.

This process begins with the same raw materials and traditional forging techniques, like choosing high-quality steel and heating it in the forge. However, when it comes to the beveling process, the smith will use their left hand to hammer the bevel on the right side of the blade, essentially creating a mirrored version of a right-handed single bevel knife.

It’s worth noting that this isn't as simple as it may sound. Forging with the non-dominant hand requires exceptional skill and control. It's akin to learning to write with your non-dominant hand, challenging but certainly not impossible.

The beauty of this craft lies in the mastery and adaptability of the smiths, their willingness to step out of their comfort zone to create a tool that provides precision and ease of use for left-handed chefs and knife enthusiasts. It's a testament to the inclusivity and versatility inherent in the world of knife-making.
 
esoo said:
Because I don't appreciate paying 50% more for a lefty single bevel. It's the same steel and the same amount of work. It's ridiculous
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I understand the frustration, but for the craftsman it is not the sam work. Since the knife is not lef-right symmetrical so is the proces, holding the blade, grinding, etc. It is harder for them to do to the same level. Whether it justifies 30% or 50% extra is hard to judge for me, but it is definitely more work that probably takes longer.

EDIT: @Dan- beat me to it by mere second WHILE adding a lot more explanation. I am getting too old for this ...

EDIT 2: ... and I completely missed the tongue in cheek in Dan's post. Nevermind ...
 
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There’s gotta be a lefty maker ready to make a killing.




Quick! Someone get me an apprenticeship with Mazaki!
 
Matus said:
I understand the frustration, but for the craftsman it is not the sam work. Since the knife is not lef-right symmetrical so is the proces, holding the blade, grinding, etc. It is harder for them to do to the same level. Whether it justifies 30% or 50% extra is hard to judge for me, but it is definitely more work that probably takes longer.

EDIT: @Dan- beat me to it by mere second WHILE adding a lot more explanation. I am getting too old for this ...

EDIT 2: ... and I completely missed the tongue in cheek in Dan's post. Nevermind ...
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So as @Dan- says, I could possibly get behind the forging part. I don't get behind extra effort for grinding. Most sharpeners are already doing dual bevel knives so are already working on the left side of the knife.

Some day I might get to a single bevel. It's hard enough to justify when I don't need it and even harder with the price uplift.
 
esoo said:
So as @Dan- says, I could possibly get behind the forging part. I don't get behind extra effort for grinding. Most sharpeners are already doing dual bevel knives so are already working on the left side of the knife.

Some day I might get to a single bevel. It's hard enough to justify when I don't need it and even harder with the price uplift.
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I'm fairly certain he'd just very subtly B-S-ing the whole way through. Swordsmiths don't swap hands to forge the left side of a katana blade. Even if that orientation was uncomfortable for you, in any of these operations, you'd just need to hold the blade by the opposite end to work in the same orientation.
 
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MSicardCutlery said:
I'm fairly certain he'd just very subtly B-S-ing the whole way through. Swordsmiths don't swap hands to forge the left side of a katana blade. Even if that orientation was uncomfortable for you, in any of these operations, you'd just need to hold the blade by the opposite end to work in the same orientation.
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I was going to say, ive never seen smiths switch hammer hands making swords, or hunting knives.

I'm not japanese, but i am a bladesmith. I don't switch hands 😄
 
MSicardCutlery said:
Unless we're the ones doing it wrong🤔?
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Maybe 😆

Though, I have no choice. I am actually handicapped on my right side. I was born with a condition that didn't develope the pect and one of my bicep muscles on my right side, along with having several surgeries to the right hand from the same condition. Poland-syndrome.

This is part of why I was down a few years ago to a shoulder injury sustained to the right shoulder.

Since that injury I went through physical therapy and have been weight lifting Mon-Friday without pause since.

On a side note, this is why I do few sharpening or cutting videos and if I do, I only depict my left hand.
 
Keith Sinclair said:
Never thought of lime juice & fish sauce in egg mix think I will try that.
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Just so you know what to expect – this method does not go easy on the oil – and you must leave it frying long enough to develop some crunch.



The traditional vessel is a wok, of course



When your wok gets big enough to require safety goggles, you depart omelette territory and enter the realm of the deep-fried porchetta … the Crab Egg Wellington

 
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daveb said:
A lefty's role in the kitchen should be limited to custodial duties. Dishwashing, sweeping, mopping, etc. Never seen a left handed trash can......

:cool: :cool: :cool:
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I worked with a lefthander before. It was sweet when doing say brussel sprouts. Lefty on the left, me on the right. He cuts the ends, I cut in half. Asked him if he was drunk the one time he tried to stand on the right side of me.
 
M1k3 said:
I worked with a lefthander before. It was sweet when doing say brussel sprouts. Lefty on the left, me on the right. He cuts the ends, I cut in half. Asked him if he was drunk the one time he tried to stand on the right side of me.
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Every now and then, I end up in the middle of a table, surrounded by right handed people. 👎🏾


Please put me on the left end seat. I’m begging you.
 
Dan- said:
It makes sense that they’re 50% more expensive when you factor in how difficult that work is. When right-handed smiths forge left-handed single bevel knives, they essentially mirror the process of creating a right-handed knife. This necessitates the use of their non-dominant hand (the left hand) more intensively during the forging process. Although this might seem counterintuitive at first, it's an adaptation borne out of necessity to accommodate left-handed users.

This process begins with the same raw materials and traditional forging techniques, like choosing high-quality steel and heating it in the forge. However, when it comes to the beveling process, the smith will use their left hand to hammer the bevel on the right side of the blade, essentially creating a mirrored version of a right-handed single bevel knife.

It’s worth noting that this isn't as simple as it may sound. Forging with the non-dominant hand requires exceptional skill and control. It's akin to learning to write with your non-dominant hand, challenging but certainly not impossible.

The beauty of this craft lies in the mastery and adaptability of the smiths, their willingness to step out of their comfort zone to create a tool that provides precision and ease of use for left-handed chefs and knife enthusiasts. It's a testament to the inclusivity and versatility inherent in the world of knife-making.
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A perfect example of marketing mambo-jumbo.

You don't really need to be a smith to forge kiridashi. In fact you often could get away without any forging by using stock removal. And then it doesn't matter to what side you grind bevel.
 
boblob said:
how do you convex ?
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Easiest way is to think about it as a series of small faceting steps. If you figure your thinning / relief bevel is like 15 degrees then you raise your angle a bit to say 18 degrees, cut a new facet. Then do a microbevel at 21 degrees. The result near the apex will be micro-convexity. Instead of being a flat bevel it will be a bit of a convex arch that intensifies it's convexity as it approaches the apex. You give up a little bit of height and a little bit of absolute sharpness for a sturdier apex that lasts longer, is tougher, has better food release.
 
stringer said:
Easiest way is to think about it as a series of small faceting steps. If you figure your thinning / relief bevel is like 15 degrees then you raise your angle a bit to say 18 degrees, cut a new facet. Then do a microbevel at 21 degrees. The result near the apex will be micro-convexity. Instead of being a flat bevel it will be a bit of a convex arch that intensifies it's convexity as it approaches the apex. You give up a little bit of height and a little bit of absolute sharpness for a sturdier apex that lasts longer, is tougher, has better food release.
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do you have a video on that ?
 
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