V1 steel and edge retention (Masamoto Tsukiji)

Discussion in 'Sharpening Station' started by vk2109, Aug 10, 2019.

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  1. Aug 10, 2019 #1

    vk2109

    vk2109

    vk2109

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    Hello,
    I brought from Japan a few knife including a V1 petty knife from Tsujiki Masamoto. I have been sharpening those knife using 1000/6000 stone but i notifice that it doesn't retain edge for long. i.e like I do cut a few fruits (not like pineapple) and then i do notice the edge is almost gone when i tried to cut thru the skin of tomatoes for example...

    Unlike my WS2 Usuba for example i have barely sharpened twice it is always consistent...

    is there something wrong i am doing ?

    Thanks a lot

    Vadim
     
  2. Aug 10, 2019 #2

    Barmoley

    Barmoley

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    I've had Masamoto tsujiki 240 gyuto in V1 and edge holding was excellent, on the same level as well treated blue 1 or excellent blue 2. My guess is you are leaving a burr.
     
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  3. Aug 10, 2019 #3

    vk2109

    vk2109

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    OK thanks ! i had double check with my hand that could feel no burr left but maybe not sufficient...is there anything you could recommend for making sure no burr ?

    Many thanks

    Vadim
     
  4. Aug 10, 2019 #4

    M1k3

    M1k3

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    You could draw the edge through some cork, wood or hard felt. Then refine. That's what I do with stubborn to deburr steels.
     
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  5. Aug 10, 2019 #5

    HRC_64

    HRC_64

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    Test your edges on non-acidic product untill you are sure 100% your sharpening is good.
     
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  6. Aug 10, 2019 #6

    Benuser

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    Cut the finest cigarette paper. It should cut smoothly and almost silently.
     
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  7. Aug 11, 2019 #7

    vk2109

    vk2109

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    Thank you. So if i understand correctly you would use the cork before moving to the finer grit ?

    i don't smoke so unfortunately i don't have cigarette paper ! Lool!
     
  8. Aug 11, 2019 #8

    M1k3

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    Yes. Or if another burr is formed.
     
  9. Aug 12, 2019 #9

    adam92

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    Just make sure you deburr on rach stone before you jump to finer grit.

    stropping & deburr very important for keeping decent edge.
     
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  10. Aug 12, 2019 #10

    Benuser

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    Deburr by longitudinal strokes — along the edge. You want to abrade it — not to break off and leave a damaged edge behind.
     
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  11. Aug 14, 2019 #11

    Benuser

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    And only go to the next stone if you can't reduce the burr any further, and it only flips.
     
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  12. Aug 23, 2019 #12

    vk2109

    vk2109

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    it tried deburring using this video from Jon
    but also using using cork too...
    I stopped by as well MTC Kitchen since was around and the knife sharpener guy kindly told me to lower the angle
    petty / stone when sharpening but i feel like this petty is the hardest knife ever to sharpen...
    i have gyuto (V1) , deba (WS2) and usuba (WS2) and they all work like a charm and this petty no :-(


    not sure what else i should do !
     
  13. Aug 23, 2019 #13

    Benuser

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    Use the marker trick, i.e. paint the edge with a permanent marker, and look where paint (and steel) got abraded. I do this with a loupe, 8x or 10x.
    My guess is there's a micro-bevel you've been overlooking so far. The trick allows to see if the very edge has been reached.
     
  14. Aug 23, 2019 #14

    kayman67

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    Get a leather strop. It's great control over any burr problems. Not crazy expensive. The one from knivesplus tells you on the spot if you have burr problems. Unfortunately that very one can't remove most burrs I've tested it with. But, even if barely there, this strop will tell you.
     

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