What do you guys use to sharpen pocket knives?

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dafox

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Jumping off of Panda's thread:
https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/threads/what-do-you-guys-use-for-pocket-knives.21948/post-708360
What do you guys use to sharpen pocket knives?

This is what I've been using, but I'd like to use something finer:
Smith's DRET Diamond Retractable Sharpener, 400 grit diamond rod
https://www.amazon.com/Smiths-DRET-...VP3S2KXRNAV&psc=1&refRID=EH3XP3BZYVP3S2KXRNAV
Also ran across this thread:
https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/threads/your-edc-edge-a-public-service-announcement.11369/
And found this video:
 
I’ve got a slew of gear so here is my rundown ranked by usage:

1) Wicked Edge pro 3: the system I use the most for good reason, consistent results through an established process.
2) Freehand on synths (Atoma, Chosera, DMT, Shapton glass, Spyderco ceramics, and Venev resin bonded diamonds) and jnats: mostly the zen like state this puts me in
3) Hapstone K1: a fun toy I got to try some of the venev stones
4) Edgepro: I started on this with guided systems, learnt lots but I prefer the wicked edge
5) Sharpmaker: it works but it needs practice
 
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Spyderco Sharpmaker, touch ups on a balsa strop with 3 micron diamond compound.

I'll usually use the Medium rods and then hit the strop, but for some steels/knives I'll go to Fine and then Ultra Fine.

I have used Shapton Pros, but I struggle a little hitting the entire edge. The increased belly curve compared to a kitchen knife is a little bit of an issue for me.
 
Spyderco Sharpmaker, touch ups on a balsa strop with 3 micron diamond compound.

I'll usually use the Medium rods and then hit the strop, but for some steels/knives I'll go to Fine and then Ultra Fine.

I have used Shapton Pros, but I struggle a little hitting the entire edge. The increased belly curve compared to a kitchen knife is a little bit of an issue for me.

It really should be called the sharpkeeper, the new CBN and Diamond rods do look interesting though for rough work. I always wondered why they didnt have a wedge to put between the rods on the base to ensure the rods were at the proper angle. Have you seen the new gauntlet system from spyderco?
 
Spyderco Sharpmaker mostly.
 
It really should be called the sharpkeeper... Have you seen the new gauntlet system from spyderco?

Absolutely! It'll make things sharp, but only if they were already kinda sharp anyway.

I think the shape of the Gauntlet rods is nifty and may be a little more forgiving than the Sharpmaker. But, I wish it had more than one option for angle. It doesn't really offer enough over the Sharpmaker for me to have two rod systems taking up space.
 
Same as kitchen knives, although the curve is a b!tch.

Usually just go to 800-1000. 2000 if I’m feeling fancy
 
i dont have any recurves so i can use regular stones for my short blade knives. but since they usually have so much curvature i have to use a different technique with them.

my regular method for big knives is sweeping motions (like bob kramers does) edge leading. i start at the base and finish at the tip with each swipe.
however this is very difficult and imprecise for smaller blades.

so for small ones i simple do edge trailing and depending on the curvature i might start at the base or at the tip. and its not a swipe i just push the blade away but angle/turn the blade as i go forward so the whole blade gets abraded.

but sometimes i also use the sharpmaker. its really good imo for small blades.
 
Absolutely! It'll make things sharp, but only if they were already kinda sharp anyway.

I think the shape of the Gauntlet rods is nifty and may be a little more forgiving than the Sharpmaker. But, I wish it had more than one option for angle. It doesn't really offer enough over the Sharpmaker for me to have two rod systems taking up space.

i think one could tape sandpaper to the rods if one needs more abrasion. never tried it myself but i dont see why it wouldn't work.
 
also i think the smaller shapton "glass stone 7" could be good for smaller blades. you can hand hold them.
i only have the 500 and its really good imo.
 
Yep, my usual synthetic stones I use for kitchen knives. I do have to thin my pocket knives more frequently because they get the jobs that would be unforgivable for a fine kitchen knive. For regular sharpening I tend start with my 800 grit JNS blue brick and then my JKI 2000 to finish. If I need to thin, I have a Bester 320 to knock back the shoulders.
 
I use same stones as for everything else, but I find it difficult at times with some higher alloyed steels.
 
Depends on which pocket knife, what blade steel, how abused and neglected the blade has gotten to be and how much time I want to spend on the job. Also the phase of the moon, where I'm at physically at when the lack of sharpness becomes frustrating and where in relation to that location my sharpening equipment is.

If I'm out on a job and really need to, I've used the diamond side of the file on my Leatherman wave followed by stropping on my forearm or pants leg. I've dry sharpened knives on the top edge of a half rolled down car window. I've also used the edge of an old ceramic bathroom sink.

I've got a Warthog guided system if I'm at the shop, need to establish a particular angle, have dammage to repair and a lot of metal to remove plus have the time. Coarse diamond plate, medium diamond plate, loaded leather strop.

If doing a quick touch up on an undamaged edge, I might just do a few edge trailing strokes on what seems to me an appropriate stone, followed by stropping on newspaper or on denim loaded with cheap auto scratch removing/blending/polishing compound.

If I'm in the mood with some time to meditate and the edge is pretty much already at the correct bevel, has no major dammage? The same stones I use for kitchen knives, highest grit and stropping regime as the edge characteristics desired require.
 
Washita or a Smith's Washita hard combo. It takes me just a couple of minutes to return my edges to sharp with the traditional folders that I prefer.
 
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