What kind of abrasive is in the King Deluxe 300?

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Acts more like SiC than AlOx in that it "blunts" with excessive pressure and cuts finer, a characteristic of the cubic SiC crystals as the corners get knocked off in use.

I find that with heavy use I need to refresh my Deluxe 300 regularly with coarse SiC (60 grit) and a sandstone I'm flattening to keep it cutting well. Not normally necessary very often, but I'm working on a Yanagiba that got screwed up and needed serious bevel grinding to fix (my fault). Wore out a 220 grit stone on it, but it's nearly done.

These stones are VERY hard and rarely need to be flattened, but they will "blunt" or "glaze" with use and stop cutting well. Don't use an atoma or silicon carbide paper to flatten them, it's only going to blunt the rigidly held grit of the stone, you need rolling grit to "poke" off the blunt particles and expose sharp one.

In normal use (heavy sharpening of double bevel knives or plane and chisel blades) it won't wear very quickly.

I cannot help but think that you could use the hard corners of a very coarse stone to resurface this KD 300. I will be trying this soon as I've recently flattened mine and it is as you said, very glazed over now after using my Nano Hone NL-10 (which flattens it very easily). I was also going to try Naniwa 24 grit flattening stone I just picked up, which may do the trick. If that doesn't work I will try the edges and/or corners of my Nubatama 24 grit stone. One of these methods ought to work I reckon.
 
A sharp corner may or may not work, and you risk uneven surfacing or going out of flat. Loose grit and a scrap of sandstone -- or any other nearly flat and hard stone, including sidewalks and retaining walls -- works better -- flattens while exposing fresh grit. Only takes a few minutes, and SiC grit is cheap.

Always the same trade-off with very hard stones, including Arkies. Rolling grit gives you a very nice coarse surface, using stationary grit burnishes the stone and gives a finer cut.
 
I use a floor tile with my loose sic. It wears much slower than float glass.

But just make sure youre trying to use whatever backer as evenly as possible. Because it will go out of flat also. So try to spread the wear evenly.
 
I haven't tried it yet but I think that if you attach a sheet or 2 of Tyvec to your flat service it should hold the sic as well as any strop material, and protect whatever you're using for a flat. I say it might need 2 sheets spray-glued together if you're using real course grit, like 60 grit particles which are pretty large.
 
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