What reason used when let go good knives?

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KS - i bought it very early on, heard it was great, and it was, then heard modern knives can be even better, so off go trying stuff.
Yoshihiro hammered 210 - the usual beginner knife that no longer could complete with my others, though I still think it's great value.
Yu Kurosaki Fujin 240 - beautiful, but turns out I don't like concave grinds.
Matsubara tall nakiri - I really miss the pointy tip, new k-tip ones are certainly on my wishlist.
Takeda 210 bunka - very cool in some cases, but somehow didn't jive with me all the time.
Carter funayuki 175 - excellent, but couldn't justify keeping it vs shibata.
Fujiwara 180ish - that level of hardness freaked me out back then, now could be different.
Kramer Damascus, 10 and 6 - just such authoritarian knifes, gorgeous, but hate the thickness behind the edge and the acid wash drag.
Kramer Meiji 10 - love the handle and height and flat spot, but really wanted something thinner behind the edge. Still tempted to buy one and try thinning.
Dalman 220ish - honestly couldn't justify keeping it when shibata 180 became my knifu.
Hazenburg 180ish - gorgeous and wonderful, but super reactive, so I got lazy and didn't reach for it.
 
Anton said:
as my wife would say, "why do you even need that many knives for?" or "is one sharp knife really that different than another sharp knife?"

Gotta love a woman's practical mind
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Mine said the other day, ‘Surely this thing has run its course by now, aren’t they all the same??’ To which I responded ‘You mean like the 2 identical pair of shoes you bought from Europe in 2 color ways?’ Ain’t life grand?
 
Since we're listing blades:
ZKramer Carbon 8" - never felt right in the hand
ZKramer Carbon 10" - because someone asked nicely
Kono GS 240 - too lasery at the length for what I wanted
Kotetsu 180 Bunka - too thin at the edge for general use in my kitchen
Takeda Large NAS Nakiri - too much belly
Kaeru Stainless 210 Gyuto - just needed to make room for other stuff
Miyabi Birchwood 8" Chefs - balance point too far back
Miyabi Black 7" Santoku - wedged really bad, didn't want to try thinning
Zwilling Diplome 8" - balance point too far back

Only one I sorta regret was the ZKramer 10"
 
esoo said:
Since we're listing blades:
ZKramer Carbon 8" - never felt right in the hand
ZKramer Carbon 10" - because someone asked nicely
Kono GS 240 - too lasery at the length for what I wanted
Kotetsu 180 Bunka - too thin at the edge for general use in my kitchen
Takeda Large NAS Nakiri - too much belly
Kaeru Stainless 210 Gyuto - just needed to make room for other stuff
Miyabi Birchwood 8" Chefs - balance point too far back
Miyabi Black 7" Santoku - wedged really bad, didn't want to try thinning
Zwilling Diplome 8" - balance point too far back

Only one I sorta regret was the ZKramer 10"
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Real good list & reasons given!
 
soigne_west said:
The one I really really regret was the comet. I still have no idea what I was thinking. It was replaced by a raquin but still.
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Likewise. Ultimately it comes down to practicalities. If the profile doesn't gel with me I won't use it no matter who the smith was or what steel he/she used. The Comet W2 Honyaki was a good case in point. My work surface is very high in relation to my height so I could never adapt to the high tip and extra belly in the tip region. That one was tough to let go but I have to be realistic. The Morihei/TF Hisamoto 240 (actually 247mm) was also impractical in my home kitchen. A flatish 215-235 and 50-52 heel height is my sweet spot and that's what I focus on now for future purchases.
 
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esoo said:
Since we're listing blades:
ZKramer Carbon 8" - never felt right in the hand
ZKramer Carbon 10" - because someone asked nicely
Kono GS 240 - too lasery at the length for what I wanted
Kotetsu 180 Bunka - too thin at the edge for general use in my kitchen
Takeda Large NAS Nakiri - too much belly
Kaeru Stainless 210 Gyuto - just needed to make room for other stuff
Miyabi Birchwood 8" Chefs - balance point too far back
Miyabi Black 7" Santoku - wedged really bad, didn't want to try thinning
Zwilling Diplome 8" - balance point too far back

Only one I sorta regret was the ZKramer 10"
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Crap - just saw something and realized one more (and since I've been quoted, just going add it here)
ZKramer Essential 10" - as I regretted selling the ZKramer 10" Carbon (and can't buy one in Canada anymore), tried to relive the experience with this and it just wasn't the same.
 
Corradobrit1 said:
Likewise. Ultimately it comes down to practicalities. If the profile doesn't gel with me I won't use it no mater who the smith was or what steel he/she used. The Comet W2 Honyaki was a good case in point. My work surface is very high in relation to my height so I could never adapt to the high tip and extra belly in there tip region. That one was tough to let go but I have to be realistic. The Morihei/TF Hisamoto 240 (actually 247mm) was also impractical in my home kitchen. A flatish 215-235 and 50-52 heel height is my sweet spot and that's what I focus on now for future purchases.
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And in the end the Raquin is in a size (270) I’ll grab At work much more, if I ever get back there. Cooking at home so much I really miss that little knife.
 
K&S KU 240mm Mazaki - I got a screaming deal on a Tsubaya Branded Y. Tanaka 240 and I loved everything about it more except for maybe the thickness out of the spine and east of polishing because of the convex grind. Plus I didn’t like the balance point with the ebony handle K&S our on it. I like a Blade forward weight more. I’d love to get one with a lighter handle though.
 
Malcolm Johnson said:
K&S KU 240mm Mazaki - I got a screaming deal on a Tsubaya Branded Y. Tanaka 240 and I loved everything about it more except for maybe the thickness out of the spine and east of polishing because of the convex grind. Plus I didn’t like the balance point with the ebony handle K&S our on it. I like a Blade forward weight more. I’d love to get one with a lighter handle though.
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Re-handle Wa is pretty easy thou, I re-handle every knife I get & shift the balance point to where I want it. Heavy K&S ebony handles shift balance back. One can use lighter wood or cut a piece of the rat tail off etc. to move balance forward without going back to Ho wood.
 
ma_sha1 said:
Re-handle Wa is pretty easy thou, I re-handle every knife I get & shift the balance point to where I want it. Heavy K&S ebony handles shift balance back. One can use lighter wood or cut a piece of the rat tail off etc. to move balance forward without going back to Ho wood.
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Yeah but with how funds are right now I couldn’t justify having both with the wife. I just enjoy the tsubaya overall much more.
 
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