What size pin stock for Tojiro ITK rehandle?

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I'm not crazy about the number of pins, but if you are, then it doesn't matter. :)

Great job.

Edit: Just wanted to ask everyone here...would it be nuts to do a wa conversion on a small bolster-less handle with only a dremel?
 
LOL, I've been thinking the same thing for quite some time! I do have a bit more than a Dremel here, but I have never used any of it for fine rework, just basic cutting, grinding and mechanical work.
 
It looks well executed, but I would use fewer pins. 3 is about right, 5 is just too busy. I would thin the scales down at the front as well.
 
You would probably burn up the Dremel. So yes, it would be crazy, butt if you have a lot of time on your hands, what the heck!
I'm not crazy about the number of pins, but if you are, then it doesn't matter. :)

Great job.

Edit: Just wanted to ask everyone here...would it be nuts to do a wa conversion on a small bolster-less handle with only a dremel?
 
You would probably burn up the Dremel. So yes, it would be crazy, butt if you have a lot of time on your hands, what the heck!

What do you mean by burn up? As in burn through the sanding drums? I might end up recruiting someone to help me out on this one.
 
I mean burn up the motor. They are not stout enough for hard work. The motor is too small.
 
What do you mean by burn up? As in burn through the sanding drums? I might end up recruiting someone to help me out on this one.

I would use cutting wheels and work slowly, the dremel should be alright if you don't put too much strain on it. I have done a lot cutting with mine on steel and other metals, machining engine blocks, etc. with no issues, I have never cut hardened knife steel though.
 
That's what I mean. I use mine on chassis bolts and other ho-hum garage work. Cutting wheels are a dime a dozen. Even carbide bits are pretty cheap. I also have air die grinders as well as typical auto garage bench grinders. The hard part isn't using what I have to cut steel; it's using what I have to cut steel accurately.
 
Dremel cutoff bits get about 2 inches into blade steel before they are nubs. Ask me how I know.
 
Hehehe. Same story in automotive. Actually, I got my first Dremel when customizing PCs was all the rage about 10 or 12 years ago, to cut side panels for windows. Yeah, I went through about 20 cutoff wheels per window. I decided it was much easier to tape up the whole panel and use a jigsaw with a carbide blade. Nowadays neither gets used all that much.
 
Managed to get this finished yesterday :D

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Took some pics of the process if anyone is interested:


Traced around the old scales
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Used the tang on top of the scales to mark the holes for the pins
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Once the positions were marked finished drilling the holes, and then used one scale to transfer the marks to the other scale
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Using the rivets to hold the holes in line whilst i drill the other holes
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Both scales marked up and drilled
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Flattening the tang side of the scales on a flat surface with some sand paper, i drew a checkerboard similar to flattening a stone
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Prior to gluing i needed to shape the front of the scales as it's easier without the blade getting in the way. Living in a block of flats i did as much by hand to avoid too much noise
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Scales roughly shaped
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I drilled the counterbores for the cutlers rivets and checked everything still lined up
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Whilst the scales are together i find it easier to finish the fronts of both scales and keep them symmetrical
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Ready for glue up
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Glued up, rivets set and ready for shaping
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Shaping and polishing
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Finished up

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A few more to keep me busy when i get the chance....
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This was the first time i had used cutlers rivets and i much prefer using pinstock, so much less hassle and i'm not sure of the need for mechanical fixings on kitchen knife handles. I also had less room to shape the handle due to the heads of the rivets and the risk of sanding going through them on curves. They were also a hassle setting as i had drilled my countersink holes a little too deep and so i had to improvise to be able to close them up without the scales getting in the way, whilst the glue was curing (i also used quick cure epoxy which added to the stress)....
 
Oh nearly forgot, pics of the gap at the front before i filled them them sawdust glue mix

This pic shows where the blade finish extends up the tang
finish%20extending%20to%20the%20tang.jpg

And this is the resulting gap
gap%20due%20to%20finishing.jpg
 
Nice job. I like the three pins matching the blade color. Wish I was as enterprising.
 
Very nice job! Now you know why a rehandle job costs what it does, eh?
 
Cheers for the comments

Very nice job! Now you know why a rehandle job costs what it does, eh?

Haha, definitely. It was stressful enough with my own $60 knife, doing it with someone else's pride and joy would be a step up. Getting a perfect fit for the pins and all around the tang takes practice which I need more of. Then shaping it so that it is comfortable and symmetrical took a lot of trial and error. Using mostly hand tools meant it took a few hours to do, but mistakes happened slower too, a decent sander would be nice though.
 
Equipment can make a lot of difference, but like you said, mistakes happen slower with hand tools!! I had a friend build me up a little 1x30 with a small wheel attachment. I have a 1/2" and a 1" diameter wheel for it, makes trimming up the handle slabs/tang easy! The sander has a large slack belt portion as well to help shape out handles. I also like using files after I rough shape the handle out to make sure everything is smooth and comfy, then I move to sandpaper and work my way up.

That handle looks pretty sweet!!! I also prefer pins, 1/8" pins with a #30 drill bit, nice and easy!
 
I've seen a few WIPS where people use rasps and I've nearly bought some a few times, but end up spending the money on knives instead....
Any suggestions for makes/shapes/sizes?
 
I've been trying out the Japanese Iwasaki Files. They take some getting used to though and tend to really bite into edges and stuff. Some material they chip out, but stabilized woods and laminates they do a nice job on, but they are odd to use and expensive. I would get a Nicholson 10" round bas tard and a 8" half round bas tard cut. I use those 2 a lot in shaping handles. I would also get a half round, maybe a 6" in a smoother cut (second cut maybe?) to clean up the teeth marks before moving to hand sanding.
 
Cheers for the recs, interesting you use the Iwasaki files, these were the ones I was looking at, do they still tend to chip out with finer teeth?
 
Yeah. I don't use the medium one much. The fine and ex fine can still chip out stuff. I would get one of the fine or ex fine and see if you like them. For the epoxy/linen material I have been playing with, they work well and cut quickly, so I mainly use them for that.
 
Nice results and the WIP pics were great too! :thumbsup:

Definitely! May I ask a question: Will pins be enough or is is absolutely necessary to use corby or other bolts? I have yet to make my first Western handle, and I just don't want to invest in more specialty drills for what will very likely be a singular project...

Stefan
 
I use Pins and JB Quik Weld, no problems with the handle coming off. Kitchen knives don't get the stress like a combat knife would. Pins help so the handle can't be sheared off. Or you could use the screw type fasteners where there is a threaded rod and 2 buttons with a screw head. You would need to counter sink, but you grind off most of the head anyway.
 
Definitely! May I ask a question: Will pins be enough or is is absolutely necessary to use corby or other bolts? I have yet to make my first Western handle, and I just don't want to invest in more specialty drills for what will very likely be a singular project...

Stefan

If you feel like doing two at once someone might send you a block of wood,specialty drills, and a tojiro itk.:biggrin:
 
With decent epoxy I reckon you could get away without any pins on a kitchen knife. As I understand epoxy is 'weak' to shearing forces, so the pins provide mechanical resistance to this. By 'weak' it's still relative I reckon it would still take a few whacks with a hammer to knock them off.
Would be an interesting experiment with some scrap
 
Thanks, that sounds encouraging. I have nickel silver and mosaic pins, just didn't want to have to buy counter sink drills, bolts etc. Oh, and as much as I am up for adventure, I wouldn't want to use someone else's wood or knife for experimenting ;)

Stefan
 
Thanks, that sounds encouraging. I have nickel silver and mosaic pins, just didn't want to have to buy counter sink drills, bolts etc. Oh, and as much as I am up for adventure, I wouldn't want to use someone else's wood or knife for experimenting ;)

Stefan

NP later if you feel comfortable doing yours, and feel like doing another. Would be happy to have you do mine for business. Good luck! I am sure it will turn out amazing!
 
I started off using Corbys because I was concerned and didn't want to add in a potential problem but I've switched to just using pins now. I did a test where I glued a set of scales onto a tang with no pins at all and had to literally hammer and chisel them off so I figure that with some pins it's pretty secure. Also, if wood is going to warp and pull away then it'll do it even with the use of Corby bolts - and yes I'm speaking from multiple experiences here - it happens. :doublebanghead:
 
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