what steels and why

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15n20 is basically 1075 with 2% nickel, it does not have any chromium.
 
BU corp buys the stock from more than one supplier and then they roll and process it in to strip and saw blade material. There are some which contain a little chrome and some do not. Chrome is added to refine the grain.

BU corp does make sure that all of its material falls within a very narrow parameter of chemical make up.

Hoss
 
This is an awesome thread! So much knowledge!

Devin just curious at this point in time which stainless and which carbon would you choose as the best all around guyto steels?
 
AEB-L for stainless and 52100 for carbon always make me happy. My studies right now are on more PM grades along with a few tool steels.
Also, we are doing a bunch of research on heat treatments more than focusing on specific grades of steel.

Hoss
 
Devin - Great thread! Can you give us any insight into how some of the steels like M390 and HAP40 would rate?
Thanks..
 
I have heard that HAP40 is quite the steel how come we don't see it being used much?
 
RJD55 said:
Devin - Great thread! Can you give us any insight into how some of the steels like M390 and HAP40 would rate?
Thanks..
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Both are very good steels. They are very expensive and very difficult to heat treat. They both have very good edge holding and are a little on the brittle side. HAP40 is made by Hitachi. I don't think that we can even get that grade here. I'm leaning more towards simpler grades with lower heat treat temperatures that are more readily available.

Hoss
 
Thanks Devin - I've bookmarked this thread and will use it as a reference
 
what can be compared to HAP40 as far as wear resistance goes?
 
jgraeff said:
This is an awesome thread! So much knowledge!

Devin just curious at this point in time which stainless and which carbon would you choose as the best all around guyto steels?
Click to expand...

That all depends on the "Market".....Is the knife for a knifenut with 15 water stones......Or a budding foodie who has never sharpen a blade.
 
RRLOVER said:
That all depends on the "Market".....Is the knife for a knifenut with 15 water stones......Or a budding foodie who has never sharpen a blade.
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I agree, but still characteristics of the steel are still important. Like edge retention. Toughness, sharpen ability, and level of sharpness achievable.

I'd be looking for a steel that was excellent in all categories.

Also Devon just curious it shows cpm154 as low edge retention but I personally have gotten 1 full month in a pro kitchen with it.. Is this because it's rated around other great steels that it's scored lower? Or did I get an extradionary knife haha
 
We scored it 7.5 out of 10. It scored higher than other stainless steels. There are many stainless steels that are more wear resistant, but that comes at a price. Higher cost, more difficult to work and heat treat, more difficult to sharpen, more prone to chipping, etc. S30-V, S35-V, M390, S90-V, S110-V, S125-V, ELMAX, SG-2, BG-42, 20 CV, are a few that I can think of.

With an excellent heat treatment, CPM 154 is a very good steel to make kitchen knives out of. I am not surprised that it exceeded you expectations. A good steel with a great heat treatment is way better than a great steel with a poor heat treatment.

Hoss
 
Wonder about the martensitic transformationdifference in % with and without cryotreatment on AEB-L?
Would it make any difference to put the steel in the freezer -20celcius compared to roomtemperatur?
 
I don't know what the percentage difference would be.
It's best to use a lower austenitizing temperature when a sub-zero quench is not possible. The higher the quench temperature and the longer the soak at temperature, the more retained austenite.

With higher alloy steels the martensite starts to form at around +400'f and finishes at around -60/-90'f. The closer you get to the finish temperature the less retained austenite that you will have.

Hoss
 
I read on a thread recently that AEB-L has more retained austenite than other steels. That is false.
 
DevinT said:
I don't know what the percentage difference would be.
It's best to use a lower austenitizing temperature when a sub-zero quench is not possible. The higher the quench temperature and the longer the soak at temperature, the more retained austenite.

With higher alloy steels the martensite starts to form at around +400'f and finishes at around -60/-90'f. The closer you get to the finish temperature the less retained austenite that you will have.


Hoss
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so it will be a small difference but most likely noticeable i guess then?
Thank you for your information!



Larrin said:
I read on a thread recently that AEB-L has more retained austenite than other steels. That is false.
Click to expand...

Larrin:i guess it is more evenly distributed?
 
Larrin said:
Not that I know of. That's not the point I was trying to make.
Click to expand...

Think i know what and how you mean, i'm struggling a bit with my english translation:scratchhead:
 
What is a cryogenic heat treat? And what are the advantages over a traditional method?
 
I've just ordered a couple A2 flatbars to try out but i wonder if i should have chosen L6 instead?

I guess A2 holds a better edge but L6 is a lot tougher?
 
Spoke to Hoss and he's got some new steels he's messing around with. Anyone as excited about this as I am?
 
This has been an extremely helpful thread... thanks so much for taking the time to put this info together for the forum!
 
This is a great threat. Lots of interesting and detailed information. I wish I would discover it before.
One thing that I have trouble with is the edge stability vs edge holding.
As far as I understand
Edge stability is how of an acute angle the knife can take
Edge holding is how long it will keep the sharp edge (how long it will wear out)
The thing is, how those two correlate? Does that mean that if you put same acute angle on AEB-L and Blue super the Blue super will wear before even though it's edge holding is better?
And vice versa, if you put less of an acute angle Blue Super will last longer then AEB-L??
If the above is correct, are there any data on optimal/best angle ranges for each steel?
 
Best thread on the site IMHO. I wish we could convince you to do a YouTube series on metallurgy. I'd those money at that kickstarter.
 
Best thread on the site IMHO. I wish we could convince you to do a YouTube series on metallurgy.
 
Bought two sheets of Niolox since i've heard good thing's about this steel

Would really appreciate to know the rating on this steel:)

anyone tried "Nitrobe77" ?
 
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